no - i think that would be way too much helix for a torsional spring IMO... i think it shifts out a bit too fast already off the bottom. i actually like the 38/36P cut on the RKT kit was running better for overall riding...
Belt Blower - Opinions needed ASAP!!!
- Thread starter mrquick68
- Start date
no - i think that would be way too much helix for a torsional spring IMO... i think it shifts out a bit too fast already off the bottom. i actually like the 38/36P cut on the RKT kit was running better for overall riding...
riding in mccall. I think its 5-8000ft but not 100% sure.
I installed a 44/36 slp helix stock springs and ground the weights down to 75g while leaving most of the tip and just putting a arch in it. with the 046 I had crazy snap of bottom but I'm amusing once I got into the 36 angle it didn't feel as good, made some hard pulls ( the thing just never quits pulling) and pulled strings(outside only), just over a 100 miles on belt. rpm was 7500-7600. Put a used(120mile) 060 on, still looks good, and lost some of my bottom end but gained more on the top and about the same rpm within 50rpm. but my clutches where getting so hot it melted my gloves, I took some fuel out of the middle range and picked up some bottom end. I think I could pull a steeper helix but not sure. still not pulling on top like I think it can. while both clutches where scorching hot the primary was hotter. I think I need to go to a softer sec sping and lighter weights. going to drop weight first. was only pulling 40-47mph track speed but it was biting hard. I know I'm fighting the backshift of the secondary but don't know if I have the power to pull a lighter spring
I installed a 44/36 slp helix stock springs and ground the weights down to 75g while leaving most of the tip and just putting a arch in it. with the 046 I had crazy snap of bottom but I'm amusing once I got into the 36 angle it didn't feel as good, made some hard pulls ( the thing just never quits pulling) and pulled strings(outside only), just over a 100 miles on belt. rpm was 7500-7600. Put a used(120mile) 060 on, still looks good, and lost some of my bottom end but gained more on the top and about the same rpm within 50rpm. but my clutches where getting so hot it melted my gloves, I took some fuel out of the middle range and picked up some bottom end. I think I could pull a steeper helix but not sure. still not pulling on top like I think it can. while both clutches where scorching hot the primary was hotter. I think I need to go to a softer sec sping and lighter weights. going to drop weight first. was only pulling 40-47mph track speed but it was biting hard. I know I'm fighting the backshift of the secondary but don't know if I have the power to pull a lighter spring
D
you all should listen to cat bandit....
T
Pulling cord
My 06 m7 has pulled the cords on outside from day one.
I shimmed the motor, tried adding and pulling shims in the rear, changes the deflection, tried every spring combo you could think of, nothing worked.
Few months ago I made a float kit for the rear clutch and it's free to float in and out 1/4" and bingo no more pulling cord.
Still runs a little warmer then I would like but 460 miles on current belt and never been able to go more then 250 without a cord pulling before.
This sled has 84mm bore ported with nitrious, running 2.66 gearing was running 2.56
I feel your frustration, my 2005 still has original belt 1800 miles!
My 06 m7 has pulled the cords on outside from day one.
I shimmed the motor, tried adding and pulling shims in the rear, changes the deflection, tried every spring combo you could think of, nothing worked.
Few months ago I made a float kit for the rear clutch and it's free to float in and out 1/4" and bingo no more pulling cord.
Still runs a little warmer then I would like but 460 miles on current belt and never been able to go more then 250 without a cord pulling before.
This sled has 84mm bore ported with nitrious, running 2.66 gearing was running 2.56
I feel your frustration, my 2005 still has original belt 1800 miles!
T
I machined a steel step washer that allow's the secondary to float, loaded up the splines with anti sieze. Basically it's it's nothing more then a stepped washer and a little longer bolt, inside or small part of the step is diamiter of the splines, outside is same as the factory washer. So the bolt snugs onto the washer leaving a gap for clutch to float, I then removed all the shims from behind the clutch. I only have 600 miles on it so far and all is good. But just over 400 on current belt.
Not sure how to take a pic and show you without tearing it down.
Not sure how to take a pic and show you without tearing it down.
a picture would REALLY help. can you please!
T
Ok, but I won't see my sled until 18th so it will be a week, and the rear clutch on my m7 is little different then your m1k
no worries. i think a bunch of us have been looking for someway to make the secondary float. if you've figured it out, a number of us would be interested.
M
M
i gues this might work. drill tre holes on the back of the movable sleave and thread them. ad skrevs that ar long enouge to touch the fixed sleave and then you got your working (hopefoly) flotingkit. you could ad walshers under the heads of the tre bolts to adjust deflektion quick and easy. yamaha used this way to adjust deflektion on the vmax back in -98
edit: hope that this make any sence. the drawing is not 100% and i´m a bit tired. it´s almost 3 in the morning over her right now. geting my slead from the dealer tomorrow whit a torchystop from an m7 instaled. hope that it will help. solid mounts ar coming upp as well. the stockers wher a bit cracked after only 1200 km.
good night.
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I think that it would be real easy to create a bind with three screws that need adjusted the same. Would be better to create a bolt inside a bolt to use the stock deflection adjustment.
T
nice drawing, but you guys are way to complicating it, on the m7 you can do it with just a couple washers and a longer bolt.
on the m8 its a little more complicated.
ok lets call the brown piece the belt tension adjuster, you remove that, machine a hole in it 3/4 in diamiter, you make a new stepped washer that is .700 in diamiter with a 1/4" step, then counter sink the front of the stepped washer for the bolt to go through, now the sepped washer goes inside the belt adjuster and the bolt tighens the washer to the dimond drive spines leaving a 1/4 gap to the 3/4 whole you drilled in the adjuster, not the clutch is no longer being bolted down tight.
if I wasnt on my phone I would draw it up for you.
Better Idea, I will just make a few.
on the m8 its a little more complicated.
ok lets call the brown piece the belt tension adjuster, you remove that, machine a hole in it 3/4 in diamiter, you make a new stepped washer that is .700 in diamiter with a 1/4" step, then counter sink the front of the stepped washer for the bolt to go through, now the sepped washer goes inside the belt adjuster and the bolt tighens the washer to the dimond drive spines leaving a 1/4 gap to the 3/4 whole you drilled in the adjuster, not the clutch is no longer being bolted down tight.
if I wasnt on my phone I would draw it up for you.
Better Idea, I will just make a few.
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you can't adjust deflection if it floats, you would have to have a way to push the clutch together alone then make it float.
T
yes you can still adjust the belt, with it floating.
M
offcours you have same length bolts and pull them al to a stop against the back off the sleave. and to adjust deflektion you remove al bolts and ad walshers behind them.
but perhaps this is a bad idea anyway. the -09 reverse might be a problem among other things...
M
Just a thought
My buddie had the same belt problems in the early part of the season. Stock 2008 M1000 163, just a MBRP can, but he kept blowing belts and/or pulling threads. After numerous clutch problems he pulled the primaryoff his 07 m1000 and put it on the 08. Problem solved, just don't try and use reverse! I know this isn't the perfect solution, but since changing out he's got 750 miles on one belt. That sure beats $110 for a belt every time you ride hard. Hope this helps.
My buddie had the same belt problems in the early part of the season. Stock 2008 M1000 163, just a MBRP can, but he kept blowing belts and/or pulling threads. After numerous clutch problems he pulled the primaryoff his 07 m1000 and put it on the 08. Problem solved, just don't try and use reverse! I know this isn't the perfect solution, but since changing out he's got 750 miles on one belt. That sure beats $110 for a belt every time you ride hard. Hope this helps.
AC doesn't have a 163, You can switch the 07 08 back and forth and still run reverse in those years the only thing that changed was in 09 with the engine (backwards) reverse you had to have a diff helix and a rev limiter to keep from stretching the belt. If he is running a stock 07 primary its only a matter of time before the spider cracks.
float'n
Maybe the guys from BDXtreme would know, but I was under the impression that without your secondary tight on the DD, there is nothing to keep the DD out put shaft tight in the outside case out put bearing.........and that outpushaft must be tight and no float......... otherwise you will cause gear problems?
Other wise, floating your DD secondary and having deflection adjustment is not a tough deal with the 05 helix and end cap......the way I run my m8 right now a stepped washer and she floats with deflection adjustment. I never have because of the..........potential for gear failure in the DD?
Maybe the guys from BDXtreme would know, but I was under the impression that without your secondary tight on the DD, there is nothing to keep the DD out put shaft tight in the outside case out put bearing.........and that outpushaft must be tight and no float......... otherwise you will cause gear problems?
Other wise, floating your DD secondary and having deflection adjustment is not a tough deal with the 05 helix and end cap......the way I run my m8 right now a stepped washer and she floats with deflection adjustment. I never have because of the..........potential for gear failure in the DD?
