How to stop blowing belt on a M1000?

[Killerk]

I run stock primary clutching, (80 gram) cpc torsional 38 helix 3rd hole in pow, 2nd hole in spring snow, 046 belt.
I have always had better luck witn the harder compound belts. They seem to deal with the heat better and IMO grip fine once heated up. I get 500 to 700 miles to a belt.
Life shortened at end of season, I had a cracked bulkhead (from a rock I believe) and the lower rear mount rubber was seperating from the steel. All welded up, new MM plate.
Upper rear mount is stiffer than the other 2 mounts. hood, and side cover vents, as well as drilled holes in rear of side covers. (heat needs a path to escape).
May be a bandaid aproach, but I have had good luck.
Seems if I go over 60 on the road or hardpack, I have issues, so I don't drag race unless its uphill.
I'm pretty sure I would have issues with an 060, or no venting.

 

[Killerk]

Be sure you don't have a DD that is seeping from the case halves as I did.
If so, install 2602-191 gasket kit.

 

[serge]

to low of rpm for a slp pipe

most of the guys around here have taken the slp pipe and boondocker controller off, put the stock pipe and slp can on and have had great success with this clutch set up, the belt blowing issues have gone away and they are getting well over 500 miles on a belt

 

[Treebender]

I have 1200 miles on my belt and not had an issue. As stated earlier, keep the belt and clutches clean, and add ventilation that will pull hot air off the clutches, works. However, I feel the most important part for belt longevity is keeping the belt really tight. Shim the 'crap' out of the secondary clutch until sled moves when it idles.

My ventilation consists of two 2.5" flowrites about the primary that are fastened through the belly pan. This allows cold air to pass above the clutch guard. Next, my clutch guard has several 1" to 1.5" diameter holes drilled through that when air travels over the guard will pull hot air from the clutches to result in a cooler belt. The average of cold air and hot air from the clutches will escape through the vent by your left leg........This helps out to cool the belt, but if the belt is not tight, throw this idea out the door, for it will not overcome excessive belt heat due to looseness.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

most of the guys around here have taken the slp pipe and boondocker controller off, put the stock pipe and slp can on and have had great success with this clutch set up, the belt blowing issues have gone away and they are getting well over 500 miles on a belt

have well over 500m on my last belt with full slp exhaust and it walks away from any other m1. without the same setup or more. So you down graded to save belts rather than fix the clutching. As soon as we get some snow I will have this figured out a lot better than I do currently. its going to take some time and money.

 

[AaronBND]

I feel the most important part for belt longevity is keeping the belt really tight. Shim the 'crap' out of the secondary clutch until sled moves when it idles.

I'm sorry but I have to totally disagree with you on this one. That would do nothing but cause more heat. I like a higher belt in the sheaves for engagement, but not tight like you are talking.

have well over 500m on my last belt with full slp exhaust and it walks away from any other m1. without the same setup or more. So you down graded to save belts rather than fix the clutching. As soon as we get some snow I will have this figured out a lot better than I do currently. its going to take some time and money.

I have to totally agree. I would never pull mod parts to make clutching good. I would figure my clutching out to fit the mods I had. I will get it dialed in! Just takes time and money like stated above. The good thing is guys on here have parts laying around just waiting for me to buy them from them for half the price they paid for them.

Aaron

 

[WyoBoy1000]

who has clutch parts they want to sell, I am also looking for some 09 m8 gears, to put in 09 m1

 

[RockyMtn.Kris]

When you say broken, do you mean the rubber is tore or what? Where are they broken and which ones? I looked mine over good and don't see any broken, but my rubber torque stop between my DD and motor mount plate looks like it got beat up by a flat-tip screwdriver a couple times. This might be causing excessive movement.

Aaron

Mag side rear

 

[Norway]

Any news? Who's hit the snow yet?

Been reading up on M1K clutching/gearing and cant seem to land anywhere...
To many ways to skin this cat?

Torsional or just compression?
75 or 85gr weights?
Stock 36 helix or 44-40?

Confused.

RS

 

[AaronBND]

Well myself, I am working on better engine mounts and clutching. I bought an infrared temp gun and will tune by "seat of the pants" and temperatures on sheaves. Went from 75g to 80g weights and pulled the titanium yellow/white to replace with a steel yellow/white. My titanium was binding bad in the cups probably causing a lot of heat. I haven't been up to test yet, but will test, check temps, tune, test, check temps. I will get it dialed just like I have every other sled. One thing I have learned with all sleds is they all have their own personalities. You have to figure out what works for you and your sled. It's a challenge and fun!

Aaron

 

[killerrf]

for all that are interested... i see that the 2010 m1000's have different part numbers again for the clutch side mounting plate and the mag side mount is also a different part number. the bottom eng mount is still the same number as the older m1000's.

 

[jaws136]

Ya i see on the 2010 m8 they made changes to and have a solid mount in the front pto side, unfortunately mines torn half way around already and the soft spoked upper rear is way out of center just sitting there, can't imagine under load. I'd like to know why on the m6 and m7 until 06 had torque stops and a rubber snubber for bottoming out on the bottom of engine too. The weight of the 8 and 1k bouncing around on landings can't be good on the mounts, and why not just put the other front mount like the mag on the pto, they already have the holes for it. How many headaches has rotating mounts 90 degrees from year to year and fooling around have they done instead of the obvious. Why should I have to spend 100 bucks to add the mount to try and cure the mounts from tearing, only 200 miles on sled and no jumping either, mostly powder miles.

 

[madness]

mm

i have over 1500km on my 10 m1000 and the only time it eats a belt is when the mount goes. i have gone through 2 so far.so i just added the pto front mount and i hope it well be the fix.

 

[bcsnowdog]

dayco belt

i run a dayco xtx belt on my 09 m8 and really like it so far.holds revs just like oem belt and performance wise feels same as cat. belt has over 500 kms so far.i had to have .90 0f shims behind driven.

 

[ak1000m]

Get the 2010 alignment bar.

Literally fragged a brand new XS817 today going down a trail in about 8" of powder (I know MrQuick68, you told me they were crank killers but I had already bought 2 of them)! I am running the Cutler secondary kit and a ton of venting and the things get smokin' hot. I have to find a way to cool the clutches down. I am also geared down to 57/63 gearing. My question is, I know you have to check the alignment but how can you adjust it on the M1000. I don't have any shims or anything behind the secondary clutch. Is new motor mounts the only way? Thanks in advance...........

Aaron

then machine the needed amount off the back of the secondary + some and shim as needed. also it pays to wash and scotch brite both clutches every few rides if you ride hard and work your machine.

 

[Dale Hastings]

???????????

then machine the needed amount off the back of the secondary + some and shim as needed. also it pays to wash and scotch brite both clutches every few rides if you ride hard and work your machine.

Are you saying that the 2010 m1000 has A different offset for the clutches than the 09 m1000???? And the clutches are the same other than milling the inside of the driven ????

 

[Shift_Fast]

I have a 2010 M8 that the clutches are out of alignment a tad and the secondary needs to move towards the motor, problem is I have no shims behind the secondary. 2 options: machine the back of the secondary or shim the motor. Thats how it came from the factory.

 

[jTrue]

Bump, thinking about picking up an 09 M1000. Any consensus on what helped after riding for a season? Thanks.

 

[arcticcatwill]

Bump, thinking about picking up an 09 M1000. Any consensus on what helped after riding for a season? Thanks.

Just start reading at the start of the thread....

Will

 

[AaronBND]

This ended up being the only belt I ever blew on my 1000. I think it was because I had just geared down and it walked up over the primary. I was pushing it pretty hard down the trail. I also installed only the push-stop from a M7 for engine twist right where my oil bottle had been. This seemed to do the trick. The problem with theses XS belts is they give no indication when they go. At least the AC belts pull threads and you know.

Aaron