we need to get a rear bumper for our Matryx 165 Boost
Backwood BMP Rear Bumper Install
- Thread starter OnlyPolaris
- Start date
Bringing this one back up….
I just installed one on my 165. There were a couple rivets needing a little more persuasion.
My question I have is…….
The 4 in the front are real close to the track. Is there Any concern with track rubbing?
Sure feels like if things come out of adjust on one side or the other, there isn’t much tolerance there.
I’ve left those 4(x2) off for now.
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I just installed one on my 165. There were a couple rivets needing a little more persuasion.
My question I have is…….
The 4 in the front are real close to the track. Is there Any concern with track rubbing?
Sure feels like if things come out of adjust on one side or the other, there isn’t much tolerance there.
I’ve left those 4(x2) off for now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Installed backwoods or bm fab?
I also had a couple rivets in need of persuasion, but I'd expect that as normal.
Those forward 4 rivets struck me as tight on the track too. I considered pulling them from inside the tunnel, but ultimately just ran them in like normal. It's been a non-issue.
T
My backwoods went on without a hitch, ran them normal, no issues with my track, 165 Khaos Slash.
I had to do some slight persuasion too. And this worked great for popping rivets!
www.harborfreight.com
As far as the front rivets close to the track, Ryan from backwoods said: "You should be fine with track rub. If you are worried sand down rivets a bit."
But I did leave 2, on each side in the front, out for now.
13 In. Heavy Duty Professional Hand Riveter
Amazing deals on this 13In Professional Hand Riveter at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
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As far as the front rivets close to the track, Ryan from backwoods said: "You should be fine with track rub. If you are worried sand down rivets a bit."
But I did leave 2, on each side in the front, out for now.
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Mine was delivered within a week. I used clamps to hold in place tight against the aluminum foil tunnel and put a few on each side at a time. It wasn't a "perfect fit" but I feel much more confident with it on and looks nice after installation
I had to do some slight persuasion too. And this worked great for popping rivets!
13 In. Heavy Duty Professional Hand Riveter
Amazing deals on this 13In Professional Hand Riveter at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
As far as the front rivets close to the track, Ryan from backwoods said: "You should be fine with track rub. If you are worried sand down rivets a bit."
But I did leave 2, on each side in the front, out for now.
I decided to throw the 4 fronts in. Now that they’re in, it looks to be less of a concern.
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This install was much more difficult than I was looking for on a bumper. It took all I had to get it on and I had to come back to it after taking a breath or (beer) because I became so frustrated with the install. I eventually got it on and now there is a slight vibration at idle that drives me nuts. For the price, I'll be looking elsewhere for my next bumper option. Finish...great Fit...not so great
I ordered mine this month and got it in about a week.
I did the same the next morning and I would agree. Nothing to worry about.
any tips or tricks to installing both the rear and front BMP bumpers?
the instructions for the rear are non-existent and the video for the front is pretty useless as well. seems like a 4th grader made it.
i'm pretty mechanically inclined and can figure it out, but guides are nice
the instructions for the rear are non-existent and the video for the front is pretty useless as well. seems like a 4th grader made it.
i'm pretty mechanically inclined and can figure it out, but guides are nice
All I did was bolt and rivet them on.
Nothing more than a remove and replace.
I didn’t remove the pipe or turbo when installing the front bumper.
what is the little grommet for? is that used as a spacer under rubber pipe spacer at the bulkhead?
Yes.
I first riveted the easiest most accessible to get it set in its place using the existing holes. Then drilled the others that were easiest and most accessible and riveted those. Then when it was pretty solid, I attached the rear bumper piece and riveted the 2 rear next to the tail light. Then from there just drilled away and riveted.
I’ll add……. At the back area, Right at the taper, the distance away from the tunnel was not the same each side. I didn’t think it would pull to the tunnel far enough. I didn’t want to drill all the way through the tunnel on those 2. I decided to use 2 of the black smaller rivets there and just rivet the bumper and tunnel plate together.
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B
Is there any after-market bumper that goes on without at least a little elbow grease?
That being said, I found the BMP Bumpers on my Matryx 165 to be some of the best fitting easiest installs yet. I did buy a 10" 3/16ths drill bit to make it easier to mount a few of the front brace rivets because the running board was in the way of my drill. But I'll never complain about a need for buying more tools. I've run skinz bumpers on all my sleds until this year, and those things never lined up.
That being said, I found the BMP Bumpers on my Matryx 165 to be some of the best fitting easiest installs yet. I did buy a 10" 3/16ths drill bit to make it easier to mount a few of the front brace rivets because the running board was in the way of my drill. But I'll never complain about a need for buying more tools. I've run skinz bumpers on all my sleds until this year, and those things never lined up.
What you will find is the inconsistency is from polaris assembly line rivet placement variation.
