Suggestions for clutching 08' 700 Dragon?

[ronmexico78]

Hi Guys,

I have been in the sport for 3 years now on the same sled. Im not any specific kind of rider that JUST likes climbing or JUST likes boon-docking. I like a bit of everything for my ride style. The only mods i have done is an SLP can (no pipe).

Im going to get my clutch serviced this summer at my local shop. I asked them what they recomended for maybe a bit of a clutch upgrade as i have heard changing some things (springs, helix??) wakes these babys up. My shop suggested Team-Tied in their email to me???

What do you guys think? I dont really want to go to balls-out with the aftermarket, but just a nice little treat for the dragon to wake it up. For instance the shop also suggested i get a slp pipe, but im not sure i want to spend the extra money. Times are tough!

Thanks guys in advance. And if you could in your explanation be as lay-man as possible as im not sure exactly what all the parts are in the clutch.

 

[mountainhorse]

Stock clutching.

New bushings in your weights.

Have the Primary FULLY serviced... Find out if your local shop can do everything in this list....CLICK HERE. (plenty of Laymans info there)

Brand new clutches are less than Ideal... best to know that this "primary link" to making your sled work is spot-on good.

Pull your secondary... Take it apart, clean it up, check out the bushings, replace the springs, check the rollers, 2 delrin washers UNDER the spring cup....Set belt deflection..

19/42 gearing.

Dont Worry about a pipe... and none of the cans actually add any hp... just drop weight. and change the exhaust note.

No need for the Team tied either...

Put your money into freshening up the top end if you have over 2000 miles, set the TPS baseline in addition to the Idle voltage

 

[clutch man]

I have found that it is better to change the helix out to a twin track 58-40-36 ,58-38-36 part #LW520114 (team number) replace the stock spring too.
In the drive clutch ( not a fan of the black/green spring that came stock) the slp springs are cheaper and better.
put in a blue pink part #40-76 or for a little more snap off the line use green/ pink part #40-77
Polaris did for 08 and newer put in the almond spring much better same as the SLP blue / pink.
If it is still a 155 use the 58-40-36 track and for the 163 track use the 58-38-36 track
Also your cam arms after you have bushings installed have them balanced (60 gram Polaris weight run heavy take them back to close to 60) it will make the sled run much better.

 

[mountainhorse]

Stock primary on the 2008 was a 140/330 [Polaris Almond or Black-3342]

The Black/green is a 120/340 which WOULD give you early engagement and not much "snap"...plus it would give you at bit more top RPM and not load the motor as much.

Polaris did for 08 and newer put in the almond spring much better same as the SLP blue / pink.

Polaris and SLP use a different metod for rating their primary springs...which would explain the Polaris Black - 3342 was "better" than the SLP.... It has a lower finishing force.

Polaris is measured with a starting force measured at 2.50" and a finishing force at 1.19"

SLP is measured with a starting force measured at 2.50" and a finishing force at 1.25"

To compare apples and apples... RON on the forums here measured the SLP Blue/Pink at 140/360 which would give you the same engagement as the stock 2008 Polaris 140/330 but would not load the motor as much on the top... This has a similar RPM effect of going with a lighter wieght.

The SLP green/pink when measured at 2.50"/1.19" is 160/348... I found that to be a trencher... best paired with 11 series weights... But then you get into a new "dance" with balancing the Primary vs. secondary "authority" when it comes to back shift/up-shift.

Stock helix is 56/42/.36" in the 2008 700.

Clutch Man... I"m kind of curious on your reasons for increasing the starting angle and decreasing the finish angle of the helix from 42 to 40/38?? What kind of secondary temps were you seeing with this helix? Did you feel that the belt was slipping and wanted to put more "squeeze" on it?

Above 9000 ft I ran 58 gm weights and kept the remainder of clutching the same.

 

[clutch man]

Stock helix is 56/42/.36" in the 2008 700.

Clutch Man... I"m kind of curious on your reasons for increasing the starting angle and decreasing the finish angle of the helix from 42 to 40/38?? What kind of secondary temps were you seeing with this helix? Did you feel that the belt was slipping and wanted to put more "squeeze" on it?

Above 9000 ft I ran 58 gm weights and kept the remainder of clutching the same.

Loading the motor more on take off will make it less apt to trench. I have found it is better to have less angle on top. There you don't want the motor loaded this will maintain rpm beater and longer belt life. with the set up i use i have a customer now with 2500 miles on the same belt. 08 D7 155

 

[ronmexico78]

Thanks guys for all the help. From all the info i've read i think im going to go with the following:

1. New helix (58-40-36) on my 155 track 700 (i ride mostly between 5000- 7500') Hoping this will get my RPM's up to 8100 when climbing, as i can only hit 7500 on a climb, but full 8100 on the trail.

2. Going to replace the spring in the primary with the 'stock' one as recomended.

3. Going to change the spring in the secondary to the 'almond' one, hoping this also helps me hit 8100 on climbs.

Does all this sound about right guys?

 

[F-Bomb]

Wow are you ever in for a treat if you can find clutching that works instead of what you are experiencing now. 7500 on climb isn't taking you anywhere very impressive! If it's 7500 on any climb it must be a turd anytime the track is loaded even on the flats.

Call 1-208-853-5550 Carl's Cycle Sales..ask for Chris Kosel in Performance. Tell him your sled and weight then buy the complete Carl's Clutch Kit for your application. You ride a sled that they are the premier dealer on the planet for performance and you ride at exactly the altitude that they have done 90% of their test work on.

Take that kit down to your local mechanic and have it properly installed while servicing or checking all other bearings, bushings, chain, track tension, ect ect. Start your season on a new 115 belt properly broken in and correctly setup on your buggy. ENJOY the new sled...because that is what it will feel like!
Thank me after your first ride..................

 

[ronmexico78]

Well F-Bomb, i would love to thank you, but that requires Carls Cycle to return two voicemails and two emails about their clutch kits................

Does anyone know the average cost of these kits and what is typically included?

 

[volcano buster]

I hope you weren't expecting a call back on a Monday. Most motorsport shops are closed Sunday/Monday.

I haven't heard anything bad about Carl's, sounds like it will be worth the wait.

 

[richracer1]

Sorry about reviving this old thread, but it fits into my question. I don't have a Dragon, but the std '09 700 RMK 155". Will the helix recommendations here work for me as well? I have added a SLP single system and ride both trail & mountain, weigh about 195 w/sledding clothes. Altitude is 5000 - 8000.

Also, I plan on changing the gearing to 19/42.

 

[volcano buster]

How about setups for a 660 in the 3000-6000' range?

I've been all over the board and am having a tough time finding the exact primary weight which is both light enough at the bottom end to rev quick, but heavy enough to keep it from over revving. I have some different weights that are quite heavy on the pivot end but still let it rev to 87-8800 when the track breaks loose.