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Stop measuring Wyo, and ride LOL. The tie-rod arm would need to be longer yet and it's pivot moved forward in the chassis that isn't there to get rid of what you are measuring. Or, a heavier rack and pinion set-up installed.
It's all good though. Inside ski turns the sharpest, outside ski turns enough more to help the maneuvers, and longer arm lessens the effect.
Now you know the real reason AC limited our turning radius.
Removing that arm is a complete bulkhead diassembly (a lot of work and a lot of factory rivets). Not needed IMO. Plates are strong enough. The minimum lengthening is .75". .9" would have been perfect for bump steer but you would have to go into the second rivet in the bulkhead (not for me) and put an upward bend into the plates.
IMO bending the bulkhead away is easier and no different structurally. You don't have to move too much away but any way you do it you have to move some of it out of the way. This allows the whole job to be done from the sides with just the removal of the tie-rod boots.
A CNC machined steel piece would be okay but aluminum would be real close to not enough strength without a funky bend to add material to the bottom or turning the tie-rod mounting perpendicular at that point. Plates are fine. Maybe the seller could tack the dowels to the botom plate to make installation easier.
Worth the effort which ever way you chose to do it IMO.
How about to make a bend on the tierod, so it clears the hole in bulkhead?
So you don't have to cut in it.
Hey elvis1280 did you cycle your suspension fully (no air) with your Tie rods hooked up. Mine would hit at the top (shock totally bottomed) if I didnt clearance it more then what you have pictured.
Can you post your completed photos of your cuts on the bulk head and the final photos of your spindle mods. did you do all your work from the bottom?
Thanks, RickM