PART #2 STEERING SWING MOD
- Thread starter elvis1280
- Start date
G
Stop measuring Wyo, and ride LOL. The tie-rod arm would need to be longer yet and it's pivot moved forward in the chassis that isn't there to get rid of what you are measuring. Or, a heavier rack and pinion set-up installed.
It's all good though. Inside ski turns the sharpest, outside ski turns enough more to help the maneuvers, and longer arm lessens the effect.
Now you know the real reason AC limited our turning radius.
Removing that arm is a complete bulkhead diassembly (a lot of work and a lot of factory rivets). Not needed IMO. Plates are strong enough. The minimum lengthening is .75". .9" would have been perfect for bump steer but you would have to go into the second rivet in the bulkhead (not for me) and put an upward bend into the plates.
IMO bending the bulkhead away is easier and no different structurally. You don't have to move too much away but any way you do it you have to move some of it out of the way. This allows the whole job to be done from the sides with just the removal of the tie-rod boots.
A CNC machined steel piece would be okay but aluminum would be real close to not enough strength without a funky bend to add material to the bottom or turning the tie-rod mounting perpendicular at that point. Plates are fine. Maybe the seller could tack the dowels to the botom plate to make installation easier.
Worth the effort which ever way you chose to do it IMO.
It's all good though. Inside ski turns the sharpest, outside ski turns enough more to help the maneuvers, and longer arm lessens the effect.
Now you know the real reason AC limited our turning radius.
Removing that arm is a complete bulkhead diassembly (a lot of work and a lot of factory rivets). Not needed IMO. Plates are strong enough. The minimum lengthening is .75". .9" would have been perfect for bump steer but you would have to go into the second rivet in the bulkhead (not for me) and put an upward bend into the plates.
IMO bending the bulkhead away is easier and no different structurally. You don't have to move too much away but any way you do it you have to move some of it out of the way. This allows the whole job to be done from the sides with just the removal of the tie-rod boots.
A CNC machined steel piece would be okay but aluminum would be real close to not enough strength without a funky bend to add material to the bottom or turning the tie-rod mounting perpendicular at that point. Plates are fine. Maybe the seller could tack the dowels to the botom plate to make installation easier.
Worth the effort which ever way you chose to do it IMO.
Do you need to reshape the spindle?
I was just thinking of mounting them on top of each other with a modified plate, I already took mine out, that would take out the cam effect and give me more steering on the sidehill ski, but wondering how much difference, so if no one will measure I guess I just have to clamp in place and measure myself.
V
How much liability insurance would someone need to start selling these "kits"?
same kind a shop would carry
B
That would make too much sense. Have some built out of titanium with the bend in them already. That stuff does not bend easy.
G
Hey elvis1280 did you cycle your suspension fully (no air) with your Tie rods hooked up. Mine would hit at the top (shock totally bottomed) if I didnt clearance it more then what you have pictured.
E
No sir, I have not done that yet. Are you talking about the bulkhead or the spindles? And thank you for testing that.
G
The tie rod would hit the bulk head at the very top of the cut. I just looked at your pics again and it could be the angle of the camera making it look a little different. You might need to angle the top inch or so back a bit, mainly form the self piercing rivet up. The clearance on the spindles doesn't seem to change with suspension travel.
Thanks again for your pics, I can see why it took you 8 hrs, more time consuming then I thought. It went much faster on the second sled.
Thanks again for your pics, I can see why it took you 8 hrs, more time consuming then I thought. It went much faster on the second sled.
Going West
Can you post your completed photos of your cuts on the bulk head and the final photos of your spindle mods. did you do all your work from the bottom?
Thanks, RickM
Can you post your completed photos of your cuts on the bulk head and the final photos of your spindle mods. did you do all your work from the bottom?
Thanks, RickM
G
GW. Don't forget to have the shocks installed when your cycling the suspention. You won't have to remove as much bulkhead because your a-arms will not go up as far with the shocks in and bottomed.
You'll never need to take out that self-piercing rivet or above.
A hint to check if you relieved enough off the spindles for a-arm clearance is to black majic marker the ground aluminum. Cycle your suspention max turn one way then the other.
You'll see where you still might need to remove some from the shiny spots.
Don't forget to bottom the air shock (cause it,s wider then and turn the bars).
You'll never need to take out that self-piercing rivet or above.
A hint to check if you relieved enough off the spindles for a-arm clearance is to black majic marker the ground aluminum. Cycle your suspention max turn one way then the other.
You'll see where you still might need to remove some from the shiny spots.
Don't forget to bottom the air shock (cause it,s wider then and turn the bars).
G
I had the shocks in and i had to just trim the edge of the plate that the rivet secures to clear the tie rods at full compression. I did find out that the spindle clearance on the inside does change with travel. Not really any tighter but it does move down some.
Last night my Raptor front shocks came in and I needed to do some serious spindle clearancing on the inside above the tie rod arm to clear the springs. Hopefully the spindles are a little over engineered and everything will still hold up.
Last night my Raptor front shocks came in and I needed to do some serious spindle clearancing on the inside above the tie rod arm to clear the springs. Hopefully the spindles are a little over engineered and everything will still hold up.
E
yes, sorry i have been slacking in the photos and part 3 spindle work. I am still going a little at a time. but tomorrow ill have it done. and posted.
G
Hey guys. Been riding like this for a while. The other day I drilled a new hole in the main steering stem in the top arm and remounted that top tie-rod closer to the shaft. This was to shorten the throw in the handle bars but keep swing at the bottom the same as what we've done. You'll have to adjust the rod to center your bars and if your alignment and centering was good before, it will be now.
I like it. The bars still feel too wide to me so for me the steering effort is still light.
I still haven't added to the stops up top but will. Probably a couple of screws into the aluminum stops up top.
I like it. The bars still feel too wide to me so for me the steering effort is still light.
I still haven't added to the stops up top but will. Probably a couple of screws into the aluminum stops up top.
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Is this the way to go or did wyoboy1000 make a new bell crank?
I've got them, I am trying to find a cat that I can do a instructional video on so you know what to do, and what is required. But everyone around here has gone to poo or doo lately are has is to new to know the difference.
If there is anyone around Colorado that wants one installed for free let me know. I am either in fort Collins or Evergreen.
If there is anyone around Colorado that wants one installed for free let me know. I am either in fort Collins or Evergreen.
Do you think everyone will need a instructional video ?
It's a lot easier if you know, only ppl that don't are the ones that know how the sled comes apart.
Without it I suspect your looking at 4 hrs of head scratching lol, with it and the right tools it may only take 1hr.
Without it I suspect your looking at 4 hrs of head scratching lol, with it and the right tools it may only take 1hr.
WyoBoy1000, you can use my sled to make the video! If only I was closer anyway!
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