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Sorry, I was super tired when I got off the hill and meant to make those posts in the 9R clutching thread 
P-22 failure on 9R
- Thread starter abeth
- Start date
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My P22 has balancing drill holes on the inner sheave. I wonder if Polaris balances the primary as an entire unit with weights installed? The reason I bring this up, is because it was only after I swapped out the weights to new 74g weights that I noticed significant vibration in the bars and particularly the throttle flipper. It’s mostly noticeable when riding a steady 5000-5800 rpm on the trail. Wife’s 850 is buttery smooth by comparison. I’m wondering if manufacturing inconsistencies are leading to variance in the clutch weights? I’m going to weigh mine when I get home.
We always weigh and grind new weights. Variance is common.
Just leave the Black on it that you torqued to 140 Lbs. I have been saying that for the last 2 years!!! I know the stock bolt could hold 140 ft lbs as it is a Grade 8 bolt!!
If I'm not mistaken, this is yield (or even just above) for that bolt. Which problem do we solve by increasing clamping force?
You say just use the black bolt torqued at 140lbs?
Mine was silver so I painted it black.
lol.
For chumpster....er chadster...... John used to let me pick out weights and match to the closest . then I would grind at home {not on your wife of course} to exact weight on my coke scale for perfect balance on my p85 that Everrett had shimmed to perfection. Too bad that dealership has gone to hell and no longer cares. Oh unless he has some boots to lick.
John said he misses you and would love to have you back as a customer. You still have 9 more days to snowcheck!!
S
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So after noticeably more vibration after changing to 74g weights, I weighed the new weights and they all weigh 74 grams, so weighed my original 14-72 weights that came in the sled and they weigh 72g, 72g, and 73g. Unfortunately I don’t have a precision scale that goes over 65 grams. But I have a scale that goes up to 1000 grains (65grams). So I measured my new Ibexx weights, and loaded for my altitude they all weigh exactly 915.2 grains, which is apparently 59.30 grams.
Note all the drill holes next to this weight:
So the clutch is balanced so long as I don’t swap to weights that all weigh the same or change the order of the original weights?!?? So both of my clutches are going into the city tomorrow to be balanced:
I also lapped the taper since I have the clutch off:
Oh and speaking of bolts…..there may be another bolt coming out that may supersede the black one ha ha:
….and apparently the cover bolts have been superseded too lol:
Note all the drill holes next to this weight:
So the clutch is balanced so long as I don’t swap to weights that all weigh the same or change the order of the original weights?!?? So both of my clutches are going into the city tomorrow to be balanced:
I also lapped the taper since I have the clutch off:
Oh and speaking of bolts…..there may be another bolt coming out that may supersede the black one ha ha:
….and apparently the cover bolts have been superseded too lol:
I prefer to balanced the clutch without weights when new and then balance each weight individually is the best.
Here is a great scale too
Here is a great scale too
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Shop said my secondary required no adjustment and primary was out 5 grams.
These last posts are great !!!! This is how I do it. I've never removed a clutch so easy as my boost. used to break pullers and have had to use water method in past. will see if it lasts as major differnce with the lapping.
K
I want to be proactive and change out the silver bolt that came with P-22 recall with the latest black bolt.
Question- can I just remove the old one, put in the new one and torque to 110#? Or do I need to use that sacrificial bolt that is torqued to 140# (which I don't have)?
I check torque every 3-4 rides and bolt has not once moved. I'm assuming the sacrificial bolt is to seat the clutch all the way onto crank. Also assuming if the bolt hasn't moved when checking , it is still seated in same position since clutch install.
Question- can I just remove the old one, put in the new one and torque to 110#? Or do I need to use that sacrificial bolt that is torqued to 140# (which I don't have)?
I check torque every 3-4 rides and bolt has not once moved. I'm assuming the sacrificial bolt is to seat the clutch all the way onto crank. Also assuming if the bolt hasn't moved when checking , it is still seated in same position since clutch install.
Johns on his third boyfriend.... you may be his fifth, not shure. I'm still on my first goat been married for 39 years. fug John, hope you shave your sack for him.
I'm inclined to say "if it aint broke..." But, if your clutch is already seated on the crank (and is staying put), I'd just swap the new bolt in. Fo'real though, good job being all procreative on maintenance.
I love when I remove the little black center hub to remove the clutch and the spider just slides off with ease.. 24 boost w/ billet spider. 300 miles.
Wonder why the bolts break
Wonder why the bolts break
