M1000 Gearing

[Lucias]

I bought a diamond lite drive this year.. I can't rmemeber the numbers but if I remember right I went 1 lower than an M8... I hope I can keep a belt on Black Betty this year.. I went through them last year like oil the first part...

 

[vinnie]

I put a diamond lite drive on this year, went from 60/60to 62/58, BDX & Dakota Performance thought with more hp that I could pull more gear for more track speed. I don't know but I'll see.

 

[RockyMtn.Kris]

if that is the case, then M8s would need to be geared down as well as they are revving higher than M1000s and running lower track speeds due to horsepower, right?

I understand about leverage and efficiency - but i also think this motor likes to be loaded a bit. it's not revvy and spinny - its a big a$$ big bore mountain tractor. I do think that when you HP drops as you are up in elevation, maybe a gear down is needed - but those of us riding below 7000ft i don't think it will help.

Also what is the gear ratio difference between the 1000 and 800? about 10%? doesn't the 1000 have more than 10% more power and also run about 10% less rpm and more than 10% higher track speeds in a climb in powder?

Sure the bigger bore can "pull" a higher ratio, but it doesnt make it more efficient. A higher ratio between clutches means more heat no matter what what sled/what motor. You could build a 1000hp motor for your truck. You could probably pull any hill in 4th gear, but wouldnt you still want 1st through 3rd? I say gear to riding style. By the same logic we could probably gear an
M1k to 150mph. Im sure it would pull it, but guess what would happen when you load the track down. .02

 

[mrquick68]

Sure the bigger bore can "pull" a higher ratio, but it doesnt make it more efficient. A higher ratio between clutches means more heat no matter what what sled/what motor. You could build a 1000hp motor for your truck. You could probably pull any hill in 4th gear, but wouldnt you still want 1st through 3rd? I say gear to riding style. By the same logic we could probably gear an
M1k to 150mph. Im sure it would pull it, but guess what would happen when you load the track down. .02

i totally see what you are saying. but there's no reason to have toyota 4runner gears in my modded duramax either, right? My duramax on 35s towing my enclosed up the pass has much higher gear ratio than my old toyota pickup - if ou don't need to rev out your big bore, why do it?

BTW - i'm just thinking out loud, i'm not convinced my 1000 doesn't need lower gears. i'm just throwing out ideas.

 

[2zeros]

After you gear down.............

If you are not 100% sold on it, and didn't notice a gain. Try adding a gram or two of weight. Then keep adding weight until the RPM's are in spec. The torque of the 1000 will pull it, also bring the RPM's back down, and shift out further. Therfore having more track spped. I did all of this on my 900. I am geared down, 2.55:1, have 77g weights, and ten MPH more track speed. With no other changes. I have lost some top speed on the road, but that is OK with me. I don't use any belts, and clutches are waaay cooler. Offtrail performance is also way better. So unless you have a turbo, or like to roadrace, gearing down will help you. When you give it the proper clutch setup. I use a J/S sensor to tell if I am going in the right direction, or not. The M series guys that don't have a J/S's, maybe a Digatron with a speed sensor would help. Also the digital speedo is nice. I am not sure if they have a recall or not, that would be a good tuning devise for a stock gauge. Good Luck! -00's

 

[jeffro]

Gear down?

Great info guys! I was thinking about gearing down my M1000 'cause of all the belts I was going through & the heat... did a quick search and this thread convinced me me it's the right thing to do.

A few more Q's..

My reverse is a POS! Always seems to get stuck in reverse. A few quick taps with a wrench gets it working again, but have any of you had similar problems? Any of you removed or just disconnected yours?

Are you all married to the Cat DD fluid or is Royal Purple or something else OK? (It's a 2 hour drive to the nearest Cat dealer)

Finally, have any of you disconnected that poorly designed emergency switch? If so, which plug is it? I plan to figure it out this weekend when I get access to my sled.

Also, where are you guys getting your gears? BD-EXtreme? OR? What ratio did you go to? 57/63, 56/64 OR??
-Jeff

 

[jeffro]

Anyone?

TTT Anyone?

 

[mountainguy]

I am looking for info on lowering the gear ratio on m1000 has anybody noticed any gains in track speed?

I noticed that not to many guys gained track speed but found other improvements. There is alot of good info there. I believe the problem is the secondary clutch and there are more ways than one way around it. You could gear down and that will help. You could add more weight until the eng cant pull it any more that will help.But as i said earlier i think the problem i the secondary so that is what i addressed . What i did was convert back to the M7 36 degree helix and white sping. I went from 40 mph to 50-55 mph [depending on snow conditions] of track speed while climbing no more belt dust no more hot clutches. I tried a 42-36 helix my 1000 did not like it . My sled is an 07 with a stock eng stock and y pipe . Intake was c/o and l/w muffler installed t/s rear skid and boss seat. I am running 68 gram weights [4 ramp clutch] and could probably use 1or2 more but it works good enough for me. You can feel the clutch hunting now always looking for more track speed where as before it would be happy at 40 mph and would never change. I believe addng weight will get the same results i went this way hoping for less belt stress so far i havent blown one but time will tell. Hope this helps MG

 

[vinnie]

I also run 36 degree helix on my 08-never blown a belt yet but I have only 415 miles on it but running 219 hp since new. Some of the belt blowing could be clutch aligment-I know mine was off from factory.I also run a tors. secondary/snopro spring.

 

[ANDRES]

Ttt

 

[mphfreak]

I switched my gearing to the M8 gearing last year. Wish i wouldve went lower. The thing is still too fast.

The biggest improvement overall was that my belt temps were alot cooler. So in my opinion yes...a big improvement. On the hill side by side with identical sled with stock gearing, I pull away very slightly. and yes we weigh the same and clutching is the same.

The belt on the sled has 700 miles on it and i run the 046 belts. cheaper and pull rpm a bit lower, to me means the belt is grabbing harder. less slip.

 

[type_a_positive]

... i run the 046 belts. cheaper and pull rpm a bit lower, to me means the belt is grabbing harder. less slip.

You get the 046 to lower rpms????

I find that both the 060 and the XS817 lowers rpms compared to the 046

 

[Killerk]

X2... 046=200 more rpm

 

[av8er]

09 m1000 gearing- thinking of 56/64- any advice

guys who have re-geared advice, what would u do differently. thank u in advance

 

[smoothdawg]

When I was running my 09 M1000 stock I ran the BDX M8 gears [57-63] in it. I should have added more weight in the primary. I think somwhere in the 1-2 gram range per weight would have netted me a bigger gain. The 1000 motor likes to be loaded and is a torque monster. I think I would call Travis or Garr at OVS to get some good tech advice. I am running their torsional/clutch setup on the same sled with a turbo now and it is spot on. In retrospect I don't know if it was the right thing to do or not. I was having trouble blowing belts at the time and thought this was the way to go. Proper belt alignment, the extra motor mount, and side vents cured the belt problem. JMO

 

[black swan]

I'd like to hear what you think about em after a few rides. Did you go with the complete pro lite drive? I'm sick of reverse. Shredding two diamond drives last year isn't worth it to me.

hey matt!

i followed q's recommendtation and went w/ 55/65.......love the tractor effect in the trees..........all belt issues dissapeared, i even use the 046 belt now..and didnt have a single belt explode all season.
I did go w/ the DD lite tho, which required the BDX drive shaft, so the end price was $700-800, but that included entire DD lite, shaft and drivers plus the carbon brake rotor and pads.

Track speed improved greatly, maybe 10mph in heavy snow..ride only above 10k, boondocking, climbing, towing out Xp's....Colorado, RE, Grd Mesa, CrustyButt, VP

Before mods above, the sled ate belts, was a pig all around, especially in spring when temp were warm and snow was concrete....best track speeds were 30-40 in a steep climb, now the sled pulls 45mph all the time, even in handlebar deep freshies...

 

[WyoBoy1000]

so what kind of track speed, what elevation, snow condition, where do you ride.

 

[ACMtnCat]

We run a 1000 with 57/63 gearing. I dont know about picking up track speed from it but it does go from 0-50mph quicker it seems. and it'll hold that most anywhere any condition! Even with the heavier Camo 2.5"

It's pretty hard to beat that 1000!

 

[black swan]

57/63 would be a great start for a m10, i even think Cat changed the m10 gears last year......but no one paid any attention.....sure wish theyd done that sooner than later, imo

 

[WINJE]

m1000

whats the difference between my 153 1000 and a 162 1000? do they have the same clutching and gears or are they different? anything else that is different let me know and yes i know the length is different lol its a 2008 m1000 snopro by the way