Did you try bleeding yet?
Here’s the spec from ‘24 owners manual, cut and pasted from ‘22/23. Obviously there’s major discrepancies from that. What a pain.
'24 brake lever free play
- Thread starter JH@CM
- Start date
Did you try bleeding yet?
Here’s the spec from ‘24 owners manual, cut and pasted from ‘22/23. Obviously there’s major discrepancies from that. What a pain.
Need to pick up appropriate hose for my syringe setup, likely tomorrow, to do the bleed. Seeing others with the same results reduces my optimism for improvement by bleeding.
Technically mine meets last year's manual spec, as it's .8" spacing now from that diagram measurement of closest distance from grip to stock lever while depressed.
But man it's way way tighter than my 22 and 23, and hits my knuckles with a glove on. No bueno.
So who has fingers that measure less than .5" of total diameter with a riding glove on?? It's not as though anyone uses more than one finger to pull the brake lever.
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My 24 and my sons 24 are both like that. It's gotta be by design
Cut the lever off so only one finger fits
How sad is it that Polaris can't even design a proper brake, or worse yet not smart enough to just go back to what worked 4 years ago.
24 boost is fine but 24 9r brake sucks. Mashes my finger when pulled.
Out of curiosity, what was your build date for the 24 boost vs. 9r?
No idea
It's on the white VIN label above right running board, unless you took them off or wrapped over them already.
It's on there. I just never looked. They are 4 miles away.
The latest snowest podcast interviews Polaris director of engineering, where he confirmed a new "high retraction calliper", and says these changes are to "give the rider a little bit more play and feel".
Curious, are your brakes still firm with good power when they engage, and the issue is too much lever throw and bashing knuckles?
U
CYA on Polaris's end
Yep, total CYA.
But honestly, if the brakes work (firm/consistent/power), then to me this becomes a setup issue. There's not one setup from factory that'll fit everyone anyway. Again, really should come with adjustable levers.
I run my lever pretty far inboard so I just catch the hook with my index. No interference with other knuckles. A skins lever with adjustable reach, and some file work to get the bite point right, and it's perfect for me. @Sheetmetalfab offers another solution to the same end, much quicker (like his responses
).
But honestly, if the brakes work (firm/consistent/power), then to me this becomes a setup issue. There's not one setup from factory that'll fit everyone anyway. Again, really should come with adjustable levers.
I run my lever pretty far inboard so I just catch the hook with my index. No interference with other knuckles. A skins lever with adjustable reach, and some file work to get the bite point right, and it's perfect for me. @Sheetmetalfab offers another solution to the same end, much quicker (like his responses
).
People who run Munster throttles, opinions don't matter around hereYep, total CYA.
But honestly, if the brakes work (firm/consistent/power), then to me this becomes a setup issue. There's not one setup from factory that'll fit everyone anyway. Again, really should come with adjustable levers.
I run my lever pretty far inboard so I just catch the hook with my index. No interference with other knuckles. A skins lever with adjustable reach, and some file work to get the bite point right, and it's perfect for me. @Sheetmetalfab offers another solution to the same end, much quicker (like his responses
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They are still firm once they engage. But a lot of free play and being aware of finger placement. I’m guessing the new master cylinder is the culprit. It changed as well as the caliper. The lever is the same. They must have moved a port or shortened the piston rod in the master cylinder
If the caliper is a high retraction design that spreads the pads so they cant drag when the brake lever isn't squeezed that may be the problem. The piston in the caliper will have to move further in order for the pads to contact the rotor. That in turn means the brake lever has to travel further, therefore pinching any fingers that are still on the handlebar.
People who run Munster throttles, opinions don't matter around here
Heck yes, it’s a total crutch!
Being late to the game I need all the help I can get, these things are
beasts!This is exactly it, their intention was very much to increase the lever travel, trying to avoid “inadvertent braking”.
On the previous brakes, I felt there wasn’t enough travel, mine didn’t move at all before it grabbed. I didn’t like that, so changed it.
With this new master/calliper, if you want less travel I’d try something like this ARC lever: punch out the roller bearing, and replace with a larger bushing. If Polaris admits an issue and recalls, swap the stock lever back unaltered. Point is, if it’s not working for you, get creative.
Stealth 88 Arc Lever
The perfect addition to the Hayes SnoX Upgrade Kit or the Stealth 88 Master Cylinder assembly. ARC Brake Levers fold forward when you go down, greatly reducing the risk of a break. Available in Unbreakable Memlon™ and Aluminum. Features: Lever position adjustment Breakaway design to reduce...
hayespowersports.com
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