just confused and need help clutching my m7 for climbing

Here is a sweet deal on a 10.4 secondary. I run this exact setup on my 05 M7.

http://www.countrycatoverstock.com/servlet/the-14563/Arctic-Cat-Snowmobile-Driven/Detail

I have a D@D Shift assist bearing in mine too.

Originaly I ran this with the stock white spring which is a lot softer than the orange but I was having trouble getting my rpms as the snow got older and more grippy. I had the gold primary spring early in the year as well and went back to my stock yellow and white stripe (I think) spring. I like the low engagement in early season snow that has no base but now that there is some traction I need more track spin and revs. I run my reccomended weights fro low altitude, 2000-3000feet so I have more power where I ride. I also rune the lowest gear I could get in my Diamond drive whick is great. never an issue. 54/66 I think but my memor is a little fuzzy. I put them in a forgot about them. I actually had to clearance my Diamond drive cover by the bolts to get them to spin.

Not sure if you can pull than orange spring in the secondary where you are but a little softer than the orange would be good I think. I don't have my chart handy.

If you have a bog around 6000 rpm you need to check your powervalves. The get sticky and hang up then the cables come off the motor. The cable need to be perfectly adjusted. 34.5 mm of cable showning and both need to be exactly the same or the servo will screw up. Clean the power valve one at a time. Not very difficult. Brake cleaner and a razorblade. Be very particular abot the cables. If a woman rode the sled the valves might be gummed up since she was not running it hard.

Another thing I reccomend that is a cheap easy fix is get a caulking gun and a tube of black high temp RTV and fill the area around the exhaust outlet that lets smoke and snow into the belly pan. It seemed to get ride of my right side powder bog. Not sure if the snow making steam or the smoke of the exhaust makes it bog on the right side but whatever it is it helped me a lot.

Lastly make sure your belt is adjust for proper deflection (tension) It is determined but added washers to the secondary adjust when you get the 10.4 clutch. Pick the sled up and rev it a bit then let it idle down. If the track just creeps a tiny bit at idle then you have good belt tension. Feel the belt with you finger for a reference as to how tight it feels when you push it down (deflection) between the two clutches.

Also I like to run my 10.4 aligned more like 2010 specs. Which means I have it sled in tighter than originally specified. I put the clutch on with no spring to find out how far it opened with NO SHIMS between it and the diamond drive and found a place it hit the footwell gusset. I clearanced it a little with a grinder and it was good to go.


http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235739

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179234

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226429

And yes the 700 isn't snappy. It does go friggin good for what it is though. I find I like mine better than my girlfriends 2011 HCR in powder snow but when it gets harder I like her sled better since it can still blow the track out when I need track spin to sidehill. My M7 just hooks up and goes when I want it to spin and lay on its side. But I have a lot less money in my old sled compared to hers.

M7

To get the M7 running the most cost effective things I have found.

1. 10.4 secondary with orange spring/ 36 helix/ get a good aftermarket deflection adjuster......just call BDX and get this stuff direct. You'll also then be running the M8 belt which helps bottom end.

2. gear it down. Almost all issues with that sled stemmed from excessive high gearing due to the small secondary/ and high gearing in the drive case because cat hadn't figured out the numbers for gearing DD mtn sleds.

3. If you have the Attack 20 track on there, anything is better.

4. put in an injector profector, cheapest betterfuel managment improvement.

5. One more giant leap on bottom end, cal MDS weights.

6. FOR THE ENGINE....next you can blow thousands more with minimal results.

The A20 is a great track if you flip and straighten, one of the best IMO

Every can we have ever tried on a m7 lost power over the stock, same findings with the intake. Saw some gains with pipes and y-pipes but always lost with cans and intakes. Some people have rerouted the baro tube and got the bog to go away.

How many miles are on it and are you running 87 octane fuel.

Call Kelsey at rkt. he can answer all ur clutching and pipe questions. (that guy knows how to set a M7 up) I got his secondary kit and head this year, I thought it was a huge improvement over stock. for a stock motor the injector perfector works good (thunderproducts.com). the rkt clutch will work with the 10.4 secondary. Im running 65 gram cat light tip weights, orange white primary spring. rkt 36/34 helix with his custom spring. 6000-9000'

I have heard that the 10.4 makes a huge difference on a M7

I run the injector perfector before i got the head. stock fuel mapping with the head. leave the gearing alone. track speed is everything.

If you go RKT, talk to him about what will work best with his kit, if you go mds... same deal. Two different ways to skin the same cat, but go with one system or the other. Like I said over there, the 10.4 will work well for you (switch to the 046 belt btw) and will work well with the RKT clutch.

RKT has a lot of happy customers. Personally I am stepping up to his 800 kit for my M7 with the Torsional conversion on the 10.4 I already have for next year on My 05 M7. SUppose to run as good as an 800 H.O.