1.507 is the best alignment?

I feel the best secondary for the 05 is the 10". As they wear they will be harder to get. BUT because you have the 10.4" you are better off milling the back side of the secondary. Have it cut where the shims sit .125" smaller or that much taken off the inner hub. Have them cut the splines inside deeper as well. If you do not have the splines cut deeper you can have the splines ramp together inside the secondary and stick on. It can come off but it will save you a trip to the shop again.

With a hammer tap the foot well brace. YOu will see that the 10.4 with out a spring at full shift will hit the brace. Just a smack with a hammer will take care of it. With your 8.5" primary and well set up you can shift it out.

Lake runners are milling the back of the 10" as well as moving the motor and running the polaris IQ belt. Then with the 8.5" primary they are cutting the inner hub of the primary and running loose deflection. This starts the sled in second gear. Running more tip weight and getting more over drive. Seen a dude run the polaris belt right out of the top of the 8.5" primary.

IN your case milling the back of the secondary is best. YOu can always add shims if you go in to much but you will have more room to move in as the belt wears. Using the ABC primary bolt will let you keep belt to sheave tight as the belt wears as well. Then keep moving the secondary in to keep the heat down. With this fixed secondary if the right deflection and off set are not maintained belt failure is iminat. As the belt wears and thins the secondary needs to be moved in. That as it thins the fixed sheaves need to move closer together to keep the same pinch on the warn belt. IF you can't move the secondary in for this warn belt it will pop in time.

So you milling the back of the secondary is better then if you need to move the motor you can as well.

The 060 needs the secondary in more as well as 2 gram less on the fly weights. The sticky belt will stretch like a rubber band then thin like a worn belt. Loses grip on the belt between the two fixed sheaves and you see heat. This heat will make the sticky belt stick more and make the thinning worse and so on till it pops. If your not making the power or getting the power to the ground this problem is not seen as badly.

Don.

Freeride1 said:

I actually just got that 10.4" secondary thinking it was an upgrade from my original 10". I was looking to improve snap right off the line so I figure it would logically be better. I really am trying to get my sled responsive for working it in the tight trees I run on the New Hampshire / Canada border. I hate having to rev the motor to get it to engage so I went to the gold spring and figured the bigger secondary and lower gearing a put in would get the sled to do more at a lower RPM. I have a while befor I get snow to ride out here though so I have plenty of time to play musical clutching :face-icon-small-hap

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This 10.4 will do just what you are looking for. It will lower your effective gearing for the tight and twistys. The biggest thing that you can do for what your looking for is to keep your belt to sheave in the primary to .020". This will let your clutch grab the belt nice and smooth with out the shock to the track and blowing the rug out.

If you can get the off set right and nice tight belt to sheave she will be a very fun ride in the trees. No need to do much to the clutching but that primary spring.

Cheers Don.

How did this work out for you?

If you need to have the inside of the secondary milled, Speedwerx does this for $75 if you take the clutch apart yourself and send, otherwise they charge more.