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SLP Clutching

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bradburck

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Jan 13, 2008
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Colorado
Other than what SLP recommends, any other primary set-ups for their pipe combo on an '08 M1000? Just standard pipe kit currently, probably going to get an aftermarket intake, but otherwise that's it. What are people running for clutching OVER 9000 feet? Can I use standard clutch weights around 77-80 grams, or do I have to use the adjustable style? Also if you've got any for sale, PM me.. Thanks in advance for the help guys...



Burck
 
Last edited:

iluv2fly

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Dec 3, 2007
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What kind of sled are we talking here. If you are talking about an M8 with the slp pipe kit than I would recommend 68 gram weights, 140/340 primary spring, and a 40/36 helix for 9K plus riding. If you want to run the stock helix than I would run 70G weights with a 140/340 spring. That should get you right at 7900rpm and pulls really good. If your talking a different sled other than the M8 than this info is useless.
 
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bradburck

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Jan 13, 2008
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Colorado
What about???

What about a standard set of 80g weights? I know SLP recommends using 77g with 2 mid and 1 in the tip. Would a standard set of 80g work? I know they won't be balanced like that, but....?? thanks for the help guys..



Burck
 

bowerman61028

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Feb 21, 2009
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Bend, OR
SLP clutching

I'm working on the same question about clutching currently. I'm leaning towards the SLP recommendations for the primary clutch spring, weights, and helix.

The sled is an '08 M1000, with the '09 reflash, PC 5, SLP intake, y-pipe, pipe, and can.

I'm waiting for any other recommendations for the clutching setup. If anyone has input and thinks that something else would work better please share. I have heard that a Ti primary spring will be more reliable but I'm not sure where to get them.

My other big question seems stupid but... I can't figure out how to remove the helix off the secondary. Any help on how to install a new one would also be appreciated.
 

WyoBoy1000

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Nov 27, 2007
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I would run what slp recommends or use MDS weights (but they are spendy) The slp weight usually require re-shimming the spider. I ground the tip of the slp weight off so I didn't have to re-shim, but you have to know exactly what you are doing so you don't screw anything up. My dealer has setup some with 77g AC weights and a SW green/white spring and they work well with a 046 belt.
 

WyoBoy1000

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The weights shove the outer sheave in on some and make it so the belt wont fit, you have to take it in or send it off and the take the spider off and put in a washer to give more clearance. I just shaved the weights until I got the clearance so I can run any weight without having to re-shim.
 
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Mnt bound

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Aug 16, 2008
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Western Colorado
The weights shove the outer sheave in on some and make it so the belt wont fit, you have to take it in or send it off and the take the spider off and put in a washer to give more clearance. I just shaved the weights until I got the clearance so I can run any weight without having to re-shim.

Your talking about the SLP weights with the rivits? I wish I would have realized this last week when I had my spider apart. Fun times Fun times:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap
 

WyoBoy1000

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Don't do this if your not sure, if its not perfect it could bind your spider bushing and cause clutch failure. I found a dowel that fit throw the weights to hold them in line perfectly then I took of what was needed from the back side of the tip at an angle so it would sit flat on the sheave. Once I took off what I needed then I made sure they where the same weight and if needed I took the weight from somewhere else then I added the 3gram in the end hole because of the weight removed. Like I said if you don't know exactly what I'm saying don't do it, it could cost you a clutch and weights.
 
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Mnt bound

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Aug 16, 2008
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Western Colorado
I understand what you did and I also understand your warning about not doing it correctly. If not done right bad thing will happen. Since I have the spider tools I think I'm going to re-shim the primary if I go to the SLP's. I have a set of Cutler adjustable weights I might try first couple rides then decide what to do after. Thanks for the explaining it to me.
 

WyoBoy1000

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If you go to the mtx weights the 44/36 slp helix helps a bunch on upshift but if moving really slow its a little to much (at 9000 ft anyway, probably better under 7000ft) If you ride high elevation I would go with the 42 or 40/36.
 
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Mnt bound

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All my riding is done between 8500 and 11000. I live at 9500. I thought that helix would be a little steep when I talked to them.
Thanks for the info:face-icon-small-hap
 
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Mnt bound

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Aug 16, 2008
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Western Colorado
What gears are you guys running? I'm running 57/63. So if running 60/60 and a shallower helix and I'm running lower gears and a steeper helix we end up about the same. Correct?
Note: My sled is an 08 with the stock DD and 153 PC.
Thanks,
MB
 

av8er

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i'm running the stock gears

I talked to Garth at OVS snd he stated i wouldn't notice much difference on the hill with the full SLP setup and regearing. he mentioned to not go more than 2 teeth lower but for $220 plus shipping I would probably not notice $220 worth of improvement. I like to boondock and climb the steep at around 6-9000, also i'm running full SLP clutch setup per their website and i'm very happy with it
 
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