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I am looking for info on lowering the gear ratio on m1000 has anybody noticed any gains in track speed?
M1000 Gearing
- Thread starter OLD SCHOOL
- Start date
D
I lowered mine to 63/57. I didnt notice any track speed but it did seem to be a lot more responsive.
Was that 57 input 63 output like an M8?
I also went to the M8 gearing on my M1000. For me and my riding, great improvement. I don't do a lot of high speed riding or long open face climbs. All deep powder riding and in the trees. Big improvement over the 60/60 stock gearing in my opinion. I've considered trying 55/65 but with no snow, cant really try anything.
I changed this off season also, from the stock 60/60 to 55/65 BDX gears.........just waitin' to try it out
Excited about the change though!!
I'd like to hear what you think about em after a few rides. Did you go with the complete pro lite drive? I'm sick of reverse. Shredding two diamond drives last year isn't worth it to me.
S
I went with 63/57 this summer, yes that is correct.
N
I run M8 57/63 gears in mine and I like it a LOT better. The sled is easier on belts, has much improved drive-away from a stop, etc. It will still do 90 MPH at 9000ft, so it is actually a little high still.
I don't know if the track speed changed, but stock is way to high for the mountains. The engine is just fighting the gearing. Remember Cat gears these for everyone and every elevation. Think compromise..... If you ride high elevation, you should gear down IMO.
I think 55/65 is about perfect for the M1000 for exclusive mountain riding. The M8 could get away with lower like 53/67 since it revs higher and has less HP.
I don't know if the track speed changed, but stock is way to high for the mountains. The engine is just fighting the gearing. Remember Cat gears these for everyone and every elevation. Think compromise..... If you ride high elevation, you should gear down IMO.
I think 55/65 is about perfect for the M1000 for exclusive mountain riding. The M8 could get away with lower like 53/67 since it revs higher and has less HP.
N
No I didn't change out to the Pro-Lite. (Mike wished I did, I'm sure
) I hope it wasn't a bad call but, I have had no problems with my DD to this point. (knock on wood) But I don't do much of any drops..............I can't wait to go climbing........I'll post a note when I get the chance to check them out.
Do you need a helix change with the 57-63 combo to keep your max rpm consistant?
ttt
R
No, however a big gear change may allow you to pull more helix. Lower gearing gives the motor more leverage against the torgue feedback at the track, so at rpm the shift ratio moves closer to the 1 to 1 ratiio between primary and secondary. In reality (example deep powder) your clutching might be close to 2 to 1 with tall gearing. Lowering the gearing say 15% with no other changes would move the shift closer to 1.75 to 1. (This is not exact, but gives you the idea)
M
What about weight changes? I put in 54/66 in my M8(stock F5 gears I'm told). I have it set up as per Cat's spec 3000-6000 feet, 75 gram and 40-44 heilx, I think. I also added a MBRP can, Timbersled air pots and a 162 track. Hoping to be able to be able to modulate the trottle a little better on thoughs deep powder days to come...
R
I'm about to change gears in my M8 as well - 55/65 BDX gears.
For those of you guys that already has changed your gears I have a simple, stupid question; you have to remove part# 2, and the brake assembly, before you can remove the DD case, right?? Or can you remove the DD case without removing anything on the brake assembly?
For those of you guys that already has changed your gears I have a simple, stupid question; you have to remove part# 2, and the brake assembly, before you can remove the DD case, right?? Or can you remove the DD case without removing anything on the brake assembly?
M
Don't remove anything else just part #2 (bolt). You will have to remove the reverse actuator to get the diamond drive out thou. It's easy....it will take you 1/2 hour the first time then 10 mins every other time.
Matt
well - i am torn on regearing - m8 and m7 have the same ratio - and rev similar rpms - the m1000 revs lower and thus likely the reason for the higher ratio. The idea is that you are close to 1:1 in your climbing speed i'd think, thus maximum grip on both clutches - not biased towards one or the other. i've heard many people gearing their 1000s down, but not gaining any track speed. So, is this just a waste of money? This was high on my "mod" list too, but i talked to a number of people (even at much higher altitudes than me) that thought gearing down the 1000 was NOT the right move.
also - something to think about - if you gear down, while climbing your belt is going to ride deeper in your secondary, and your rollers deeper into your helix, compressing your secondary even more. so, should you run less or more helix? less or more spring? I'd think shallower helix because you need more grip as your riding deeper in the secondary? Confusing, no?
For straightup booning and tight trees, i could see running deeper gears, but for all around riding, i think stock is good. But what do i know?
also - something to think about - if you gear down, while climbing your belt is going to ride deeper in your secondary, and your rollers deeper into your helix, compressing your secondary even more. so, should you run less or more helix? less or more spring? I'd think shallower helix because you need more grip as your riding deeper in the secondary? Confusing, no?
For straightup booning and tight trees, i could see running deeper gears, but for all around riding, i think stock is good. But what do i know?
Check out the thread "how to reduce heat on M1000 - 2008 M1000", I just brought it back from the arcives. Catsledman1 has some great information. From what I have learned you can go to the M8 gears and helix. Spring pressure may have to be increased depending on secondary heat and backshift.
R
well - i am torn on regearing - m8 and m7 have the same ratio - and rev similar rpms - the m1000 revs lower and thus likely the reason for the higher ratio. The idea is that you are close to 1:1 in your climbing speed i'd think, thus maximum grip on both clutches - not biased towards one or the other. i've heard many people gearing their 1000s down, but not gaining any track speed. So, is this just a waste of money? This was high on my "mod" list too, but i talked to a number of people (even at much higher altitudes than me) that thought gearing down the 1000 was NOT the right move.
also - something to think about - if you gear down, while climbing your belt is going to ride deeper in your secondary, and your rollers deeper into your helix, compressing your secondary even more. so, should you run less or more helix? less or more spring? I'd think shallower helix because you need more grip as your riding deeper in the secondary? Confusing, no?
For straightup booning and tight trees, i could see running deeper gears, but for all around riding, i think stock is good. But what do i know?
The key is mechanical advantage. The lower gearing gives more leverage. Its about efficiency. Yes the belt will shift further into the senondary, which brings the ratio closer to the 1 to 1 ratio between clutches. And that is where the clutches are most efficient. For "all around riding" thats where they are geared. Lower gearing is specific to mountain riding
if that is the case, then M8s would need to be geared down as well as they are revving higher than M1000s and running lower track speeds due to horsepower, right?
I understand about leverage and efficiency - but i also think this motor likes to be loaded a bit. it's not revvy and spinny - its a big a$$ big bore mountain tractor. I do think that when you HP drops as you are up in elevation, maybe a gear down is needed - but those of us riding below 7000ft i don't think it will help.
Also what is the gear ratio difference between the 1000 and 800? about 10%? doesn't the 1000 have more than 10% more power and also run about 10% less rpm and more than 10% higher track speeds in a climb in powder?
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