SOS: 2021 m8000 electrical fun

[Clark42]

So last week I had a pull cord fray out and break. No big deal, started off the clutch for the rest of the ride. Got home, put a new pull cord in. All good. 3 rides later my dash/headlight start randomly shutting off and the sled starts running poorly. P1005 code appears. Fuses all good, plugs all connected. Found scraps of the old cord sucked into the flywheel area. Towed home, took it apart and removed all the cord. Sled is still running poorly and no dash/headlight. Any ideas? Stator or voltage regulator?

 

[Clark42]

Here’s what the stator looked like

 

[Old & slow]

I would start with ohming the stator it does not look healthy, hopefully the rope didn't damage the crank seal i would check that too.

 

[spoon]

Crank seal is fully covered by stator mount plate. Stator is cheap and also same stator back to 2007 if putting in used. Part number different but I know a Cat dealer mechanic and they use the 22 stators on old sleds because the Suzuki one is triple price.

 

[Sage Crusher]

There are 2 timing magnets housing you can see on the outside of the stator.
Those also get pushed ( bent ) by rope getting caught by the excessive pull cord causing issues when a rope breaks- buy ya that stator is not looking healthy.
Whenever one breaks on us, we pull that recoil cover and start off the clutch the rest of the day- not causing further damage.
I have seen oil lines get nicked also from the sharpinal that comes out of the housing cover- and for sure would check those oil lines

 

[sno*jet]

the bright side is you can install the lightweight goodies when ya put it back together. Ive found better rope at the local ranch/home store than oem.

 

[slyrydr]

i used to replace pull ropes on my m-1000 mod almost every year, until....i went to a climbing shop and bought some climbing rope, tried different sizes until i found just the right one.....5 mm climb rope intended for hauling up gear, etc........cord doesn't stretch, very abrasive resistant, i've had it on sled for 8 years now, never broke and no signs of wear or abrasion......5mm, not 6mm, not 4mm

 

[Old & slow]

Just a rope clarification climbing rope will stretch around 21 % and rescue will stretch around 17% . The better choice is the rescue rope or they may call it accessory cord. They look the same and both are a kernmantle construction but I would not recommend climbing rope for a recoil.

 

[slyrydr]

don't doubt what you say, the rope came from a climbing shop, hence i called it climbing rope.....but only being 5mm in diameter, no one would use it for personnel climbing....but it does an excellent job on a starter/recoil....i've used it on 4 sleds now with no problems and i've never had to replace even one....

 

[Clark42]

Replaced the stator, voltage regulator. Sled still runs poorly and no headlight/dash

 

[spoon]

All fuses and relays checked again, bad relay could act like this, also do a check on your compression just to eliminate a bad piston for running issue.

 

[Clark42]

Spent some more time messing with the sensors, started it without the hood plugged in and it’s working normally again! I’ll ride it soon and report back

 

[arcticridr]

Re pull ropes: go to West marine and order the correct size of Amsteel 12 and you will never replace it again , replaced on all my sleds and friends sleds including mod king cats and thunder cats and never looked back, believe the burst strength for the 1/4 or 3/16 is near 25,000 psi you won't break it pulling it ever !!!!!

 

[Clark42]

Took the sled out yesterday, sled idles, runs normal. Gets to 4000 rpm and hits a wall that almost sounds like a rev limiter, dash/headlights turn off. Didn't make it far down the trail. I have new pickup sensors supposed to deliver tomorrow, hoping they do the trick

 

[Clark42]

New vs. old (on left)

 

[Clark42]

Okay guys I need new direction. Just to recap. Original issue was that the sled would run poorly and headlight/dash would not turn on, second to a pull cord getting wrapped around the flywheel/stator.

Replaced stator, voltage regulator, both timing pick ups

Problem still persists. I’m stumped.

 

[sno*jet]

New plugs for ****s n giggles?

 

[akdanno]

Does the dash cluster still work correctly? And does it still run good when the hood is unplugged? Maybe the stator fried the gauges when it went. Also could be wiring harness

 

[Clark42]

Gauge works when it works. Also it idles high, like 2500-2600 and does not idle down like normal.

Also gauge is showing 14 volts which is normal

Codes popping up:
P1003 oil pump outlier
P1004 ICS outlier

 

[spoon]

Any update on a fix?