B
Also what helix angle should I go with for 2-6K feet. Progressive??? 44-40 is what's on it stock.
I have been using a 38/36. verry happy so far.
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Also what helix angle should I go with for 2-6K feet. Progressive??? 44-40 is what's on it stock.
^^^
Yes you have coil BIND>>>
Not Good- and if you check inside your spring and the clutch stem you will see the binding scrapes from the spring also.. Not goood at all
MD/.
Before putting in a new primary spring I've always taken a Dremel to it to get the sharp/ruff edges off the ends of the coils. If you do it sparingly, there's not as much bind and doesn't seem to effect the shift rate. Milling the cup would also help, but I'm too lazy to pull the clutch and take it to a shop.
Also like my RKT helix/twisty spring kit. It's an original 2007 model. Smoother shift, up & back. Adjustability is a big plus. It's amazing how much difference one hole makes.
i have a cutler kit for sale sold sled so don't need.selling for 250 w/ belt ajuster
,have a green or orange spring and a 36 or 38 helix my names rich 801 556 5173
I found on my setup that rollers broke
tower post bolts also broke
is there anyone running a RKT/Cutlers Conversion that bounces between 1000-2000 feet and then 4000+ out in the mountains? im curious to see how the performance is in both areas...
Frostbite, what sled do you have the clutch on? Do you just run 1 helix? What helix(s) do you run? what adjustments do you make do different snow conditions?
Does it effect the primary at all? (e.i. do you have to weight it any different than you would with the stock secondary?)
I am fairly new to sleds, especially Mountain sleds and elevation changes. I have not even rode my M8 yet other than on and off the trailer, so I have no idea how the OEM setup even acts. I don't mind tinkering with the clutching when I'm at home at low elevation.....but when I load up and head west to ride the steep and deep.....I want to get on and ride. No messing with springs, helix's, etc...