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Shift Assist vs. RKT/Cutlers Conversion

Tempest

Active member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
247
36
28
Twin Falls, Idaho
The CPC secondary kit is a great kit. For then 2009 sleds it looks like they went back to the old style of helix, not the quick change. I just put this on my 09 M8, looking forward to trying it out. Good luck installing that new orange spring, that baby has some tension.
 
I

ItDoAble

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2006
580
103
43
Loveland, CO
:eek:^^^
Yes you have coil BIND>>>
Not Good- and if you check inside your spring and the clutch stem you will see the binding scrapes from the spring also.. Not goood at all:eek:

MD/.

Before putting in a new primary spring I've always taken a Dremel to it to get the sharp/ruff edges off the ends of the coils. If you do it sparingly, there's not as much bind and doesn't seem to effect the shift rate. Milling the cup would also help, but I'm too lazy to pull the clutch and take it to a shop.

Also like my RKT helix/twisty spring kit. It's an original 2007 model. Smoother shift, up & back. Adjustability is a big plus. It's amazing how much difference one hole makes.
 
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B
Dec 26, 2007
799
36
28
Fort Collins, CO
I will have some seat time on the new dual spring set up shortly. Just waiting on snow. You can get many helix options from RKT as well, you are not stuck with just that one helix you ordered. Kelsey said the new dual spring set up works really slick and works well.
 
V
Jul 4, 2008
1,181
364
83
38
orem, utah
Before putting in a new primary spring I've always taken a Dremel to it to get the sharp/ruff edges off the ends of the coils. If you do it sparingly, there's not as much bind and doesn't seem to effect the shift rate. Milling the cup would also help, but I'm too lazy to pull the clutch and take it to a shop.

Also like my RKT helix/twisty spring kit. It's an original 2007 model. Smoother shift, up & back. Adjustability is a big plus. It's amazing how much difference one hole makes.

couldn't agree more
 

Bocephus

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Dec 27, 2010
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im going to dig this post up from the grave and see if i can get some input from those with the RKT or clutler conversions. how have you liked them?
 

mikew5945

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Aug 30, 2009
1,251
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SW Montana
When you are looking up secondary kits also search MDS weights.
I owned one of the above kits on a M7. Sold it after the builder could not fix the track speed loss. I lost money on this kit. MDS weights claim the same as the secondary kits yet he will give you your money back.

No brainer.
 

Team Pigeon

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Jan 9, 2006
429
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Pass Creek, BC.
Cutler good...
you can replace rollers on the trail with ease
torsion spring, it doesn't skip and bind like a comp spring (w/o bearing)
You can somewhat adjust the spring tension
spring adjustments are relatively easy

Cutler / D&D convert bad...
The old system used to take more muscle than brains to get the cap on and holes lined up
I found on my setup that rollers broke
tower post bolts also broke (not fixable on the trail)


Any sort of shift assist is good for a clutch.

Eric sold me a TEAM conversion to run in the secondary. Team spring, shift assist and outer cap coupled with an open-ended adjustable helix (like on an m7). It's butter. Spring adjustments are easy. Spring changes are easy too. And you can get a reverse notch cut open ended helix too. so you can run it with engine reverse.
 

mtncat1

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Oct 19, 2008
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south jordan ut.
i have a cutler kit for sale sold sled so don't need.selling for 250 w/ belt ajuster
,have a green or orange spring and a 36 or 38 helix my names rich 801 556 5173

parts 004.jpg
 
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Bocephus

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Dec 27, 2010
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i have a cutler kit for sale sold sled so don't need.selling for 250 w/ belt ajuster
,have a green or orange spring and a 36 or 38 helix my names rich 801 556 5173

what did you have it on? can you use reverse with it?
 

backcountryislife

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Nov 26, 2007
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Dumont/Breckenridge, CO
I found on my setup that rollers broke
tower post bolts also broke

The new setup no longer has the towers you mention, and the rollers seem to do well on it as well. I usually break them or they get real beat up, and on my 11 they've stayed much more round & they look good.


old

th_45994_Cutler_Secondary_2_122_77lo.jpg



new

version2.JPG
 

Bocephus

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is there anyone running a RKT/Cutlers Conversion that bounces between 1000-2000 feet and then 4000+ out in the mountains? im curious to see how the performance is in both areas...
 
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FrostBite2010

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2010
239
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Haines, Alaska
Low elevations

is there anyone running a RKT/Cutlers Conversion that bounces between 1000-2000 feet and then 4000+ out in the mountains? im curious to see how the performance is in both areas...


I am running an RKT torsional and ride 0-3000 most of the year, occasionally I ride 0-8000 ft (3 times a year or so). I have had great experiences with this kit, the back shift is far superior to stock. I only adjust the kit to the snow conditions, not for elevation. Kit works great at all elevations I've ridden.

I had my secondary come apart last year (locktite didn't hold) and destroyed my 38* helix, Kelsey sent me a new helix and the updated spring last season. The only complaint with this kit is reverse operation. Its kinda hit and miss on how well it works, but the cutlers has the same issue.

As far as I am concerned, Kelsey's customer service is the deciding factor if I had a choice between the two kits.
 

Bocephus

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Dec 27, 2010
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Frostbite, what sled do you have the clutch on? Do you just run 1 helix? What helix(s) do you run? what adjustments do you make do different snow conditions?

Does it effect the primary at all? (e.i. do you have to weight it any different than you would with the stock secondary?)

I am fairly new to sleds, especially Mountain sleds and elevation changes. I have not even rode my m8 yet other than on and off the trailer, so I have no idea how the oem setup even acts. I don't mind tinkering with the clutching when I'm at home at low elevation.....but when I load up and head west to ride the steep and deep.....I want to get on and ride. No messing with springs, helixs, etc...
 
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FrostBite2010

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2010
239
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43
Haines, Alaska
Set it and ride.

Frostbite, what sled do you have the clutch on? Do you just run 1 helix? What helix(s) do you run? what adjustments do you make do different snow conditions?

Does it effect the primary at all? (e.i. do you have to weight it any different than you would with the stock secondary?)

I am fairly new to sleds, especially Mountain sleds and elevation changes. I have not even rode my M8 yet other than on and off the trailer, so I have no idea how the OEM setup even acts. I don't mind tinkering with the clutching when I'm at home at low elevation.....but when I load up and head west to ride the steep and deep.....I want to get on and ride. No messing with springs, helix's, etc...

Sled is a 2010 M8. I run two of Kelsey's helix's, a straight 38 and a 40/38p They are both similar, the 40/38 seems to be a little better out of the hole to me, but you won't hardly notice the difference. I would ask Kelsey as to his recommendation on helix, he has yet to guide me wrong.

I didn't add any weight to the primary when I added the secondary kit.
The primary is RPM sensing, the secondary is torque sensing, the RKT secondary adjustments will change the way your sled shifts in different snow conditions. traction, ect...your primary will only be affected by your elevation, no need to change weights because your adding an RKT secondary. Or this is my understanding of it anyhow, please someone feel free to correct me.

If you are looking for peace of mind about the kit being user friendly, I pay thousands of dollars to travel to Canada every year to ride new areas and don't change anything except my primary weights to reflect the elevation I'm riding. Just put it where it works and leave it, very rarely do you need to even adjust it. I as well don't want something I'm constantly having to tinker with.
 
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