Shift assist a good thing or a bad thing. After running it, I'm leaning toward Bad.

[DonoBBD]

WYOBOY-- How many extra motor mounts are you running?? I have a 2009 M1000 with all of the SLP mods. Ever since I added the extra HP I have been shredding belts (lots of heat). I ride @ 0-5000 ft and did all of the clutching mods I could think of and nothing worked. I agree that with the big track and the extra HP I will need to fix the movement before I can get the clutching dialed in. I hope.

I have added 1 mount and one torque stop suggested by Shane @ Twisted Turbo. I noticed both of the rear mounts were ripped in the plate behind the clutches and I have been trying to find replacements but AC does not stock any longer they are making me buy the whole plate. Once this is done I should have the movement fixed and than I will concentrate on clutching again. I would like to stay in contact with you on your outcome and I will keep you posted on mine. The plate is 3 weeks back ordered but I will let you know when I get it out again.

If you have any other suggestions I am over looking please let me know. I have been pulling my hair out with this damn sled. Thanks for this thread and if you want to bounce anything off me I can email you my number. Sorry about the rambling

Give Mel a call at M&M he has a fix for the motor mounts with much stiffer ones. Talk to him about his secondary kit. It is totaly sick and turns your sled into a freak.
http://www.formulax-1.com/clutch-kits.php

He can wall you through moving your motor over what puting in the mounts as well.

Don.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Currently I have a torque arm on the mag side that bolt to the bottom of the motor to hold it back, but it breaks the bolts every ride, I am going to add the twisted kit with this one. If you notice the pto has tons of mounts but the mag only has one on the back side. It just pulls the mag side forward rather than the pto side back. STM makes the plate mounts, but you don't want a harder one in the upper rear as it will break the tab off the bulk head. I am kinda making a list of stuff I'm going to try, but the first will prob be to pull the shift assist out and see what happens.

 

[kane13]

Personaly i like the idea of the shift assist, my sled shifts and engages alot smoother now and the spring doesn't bind up anymore. I do worry about moisture affecting its performance though thats why i got the d&d, its just like any other bearing and it can seize up. I think its a great idea but improvements could be made but its a cheap alternative, with that being said it feels like it will be easier on the DD gears over time, i like the improvement i hate plastic in my clutch, a completely sealed and serviceable one would be great though.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

it does help shift but it can also cause clutching that could work not to. It wont seize don't worry.

 

[killerblair]

it does help shift but it can also cause clutching that could work not to. It wont seize don't worry.

hey thunder, i took my 1000 out this weekend, i finally got my twisted mount kit in and it worked un believeable. my gearing, 54-66 made the world differance. i was straight up abusing my sled, dragging it as hard as i could. i lifted up my hood and i could finally touch my clutches with out burning them. my 1000 has the CPC seondary with orange spring in it and i am running the purple in primary with 84gram weights. i was pulling 7500 everywhere no matter what. it was unreal!!!! i never got to hit the slopes yet there was not to much snow to really give it a good pull. but just enough to test untill next time. all i know is i was making a fool of my brothers 10 m8. complete fool. never even stood a chance from start to finish. i i strongly believe i will pull well over 50mph track speed. but for some reason it is just working good finally(at least for a bit haha).

just letting you know what happened on my ride after the new clutching and gearing and motor mount and stop. i offset cluthes to 1.655 and it seems to be at the happy medium. i just hope i can make it more than 2 rides on a belt. and so far so good!

Blair

 

[kane13]

it does help shift but it can also cause clutching that could work not to. It wont seize don't worry.

Ya i am not to worried about it wyo my clutching seems to work good for me yellow and white primary, 73g weights, straight 36, orange secondary, shift assist, and hi-torque rollers in a m8. I am having fueling issues and i blame the controller for that because i was pulling 8100 rpm before install and also if i disconnect it i was getting around 7700 rpm last ride, i will get that figured out soon though if it ever warms up enough to go for a ride its too cold here and not really enough snow yet.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Thanks for bringing up the rollers, no one has mentioned it yet but is a good thing to have. Rock rollers or Hi Torque are a good upgrade for the pre 2010 sled especially.

 

[DonoBBD]

Thanks for bringing up the rollers, no one has mentioned it yet but is a good thing to have. Rock rollers or Hi Torque are a good upgrade for the pre 2010 sled especially.

I run the Hi Torque only because of the stigma from the rock rollers first gen that broke.

Don.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Hi Torque for me also.

Don you said earlier that helix angle works because of the load that the track returns to the clutch is why more hp doesn't matter. Thinking about it and with the help of a shift assist would it cause there to be more load as it helps the ramps in applying pressure. To the sense one might try a 34*-35* helix It seems the difference from a 38 to a 36 it would be just right at a 35, but I really like the pull of the 42-44 off bottom. But getting the motor to hold still may change everything. In theory if the helix is load sensing the shift assist should increase the load and thus a lower angle needed.

 

[Destroyer]

I agree with using only lower angled helix's in conjuction with the shift assist.

I've been having trouble getting rpm out of my 44/40 with shift assist at 0-3000. I Had to really take alot of weight out and it didn't pull hard. I Tried a straight 40 without the shift assist. 8250-8350 holding. I've given up using the shift assist with steeper helix's.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

anyone have more info,. "Destroyer" did you happen to pay attention to your track speed.

 

[Destroyer]

not really no sorry.

 

[pindallout]

Wyo,
I am just thinking about this and I am just spewing here.

I am wondering if you may have a hairline crack on top or bottom of the bulkhead on the PTO side, I would believe if its on the top with the motor spinning to the front it may be throwing your alignment/parallelism out of whack maybe??? I have seen your photos of your motor mount threads, etc and I would assume you would have noticed if your bulkhead is cracked, but I thought I would throw that out there....... just an idea.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

No cracks, the motor mounts just suck, I can get this thing to transfer and hook up unlike anyone else I've seen, being my height and weight, along with the extra fuel and tools (its come over on me a few times). When I say its been abused and road hard thats what it means and there are many out there that have no idea what it means.

My clutching is pulling out of alignment and I think part of it is because the shift assist increases the pressure the spring can apply (it has to do with physics if you not a physics pro don't get into it) I think the S.A. may be a good thing but requires a different clutching setup and prob a lesser angle finish on the helix and/or softer spring.

But I'm having to much fun on boost, so I haven't even road the m1000 this year, I will figure it out and let you know. but for now I can't say much.

I have lots of extra mounts so the motor isn't going to move unless mounts break, then I will take it up and test then remove the SA and test again. I will also test with MTX weights and MDS weights and maybe AC weights with different springs, I have a 44/36 helix, 36, and a 42/38, I want to try a straight 34 with the assist to see if I can get any more track speed and more consistent rpm with the assist at rpm in a climb. If it works then I will try something along the lines of a 40/35/33p. When I find time.

 

[Destroyer]

I agree with the shift assist and the steeper helix's it just doesn't work. I've yet to try the shift assist and the 36 at 2000'. Might be my next experiment. I'm going to try that poo 100-340 primary spring this weekend if they have one in stock.

 

[killerrf]

I agree with the shift assist and the steeper helix's it just doesn't work. I've yet to try the shift assist and the 36 at 2000'. Might be my next experiment. I'm going to try that poo 100-340 primary spring this weekend if they have one in stock.

my shift assist and cat orange spring with straight 40 helix seems to work fine for me. i was going to try to pull out one black shim and see how it affects things.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

tried a 38* at 9000 ft and it was to much angle, and would pull rpm down to 7200-7000 on climbs, but was still beating XP's.

 

[ARICH]

tried a 38* at 9000 ft and it was to much angle, and would pull rpm down to 7200-7000 on climbs, but was still beating XP's.

Racinstation offers a 37* that ive heard good results from

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I've heard they work at 4-7k but not at 9-10k.

 

[killerrf]

you guys ride high.