Thats what I was looking for but I think I can find it for less than $35 shipped.
Shift assist a good thing or a bad thing. After running it, I'm leaning toward Bad.
- Thread starter WyoBoy1000
- Start date
M
http://www.hiperf.com/cgi-bin/sh000...&PN=Clutch_Springs.html#a200_2d903#a200_2d903
If you read the directions it says that each washer will add 50 rpms to your engagement. But that is only if you add washers to the glide washers.....Each kit comes with 5 washers, 2 glide washers(one for each side of the spring) that have some slick **** on them, and the other 3 will add 50 rpms engagement each if you wish to use them as a tunning aid.
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Link no worky!
D
Some sleds need the motor moved even from 05. I am betting yours is one of them. Let me try to find some numbers in my files here on it.
If your seeing this heat you have to move the secondary in. Throw that offset bar in a drawer and just move the secondary in. The belt is getting so hot that it is really flipping over in the clutches then popping.
Trust me on this.
M
Ok then how are my weights showing full shift when I have never reached a speed that should allow a full shift. When I had to replace the pto motor mount at 900miles from torn mounts and keep breaking the bolts on the extra torque arm, I installed it on the mag side running horizontal to the bottom of the motor. I know there is some serious movement, like I said I can get real good tranfer and load the drive system hard. I will be adding more mounts just to see what happens, but the orange spring and S/A still makes me wonder. Another thing I have always wondered is how a m7 can pull a 36* helix and a 200hp rated m1000 still has a 36* helix, but it wont pull more (at elevation) at least not with the same springs?????
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If your motor is moving around, there is no way to get the clutching right. Get the motor mount issue solved then work on clutching.
Thanks holmes, But if the clutching isn't right it can cause extra motor movement and it still doesn't make sense of the other m1000 that doesn't have the issue and mine does?????
I'll throw this out for thought. It probably won't have anything to do with your sled.
I had a Polaris 05 900, remember how they blew belts.
After all my mods to he sled, I could get a full season out of a 080 belt but would eat cross members. I still would not blow or wear a belt even with a broken cross member.
I'm guessing flex in my bulkhead was causing the problem.
So my point is a properly aligned motor and good clutching does not mean you may not have other problems.
And after 4500 miles I fixed my cross member problem by buying a Cat
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I have been wondering about the secondary spring as well. Has anyone tried only using one of the black plastic washers on top of the spring instead of using both of them? The Goodwin blue sounds like an option worth exploring as well.
H
i prefer a gnarly backshift..the shift assist (er thrust bearing) greatly helps with this
but, once again, clutching is all about what "you" what...no such thing as a setup that everyone can agree on
but, once again, clutching is all about what "you" what...no such thing as a setup that everyone can agree on
D
To find where you would be at full shift pull a fly weight put black magic marker on the weight where the roller runs. Put the weight back into the clutch. With out the spring in the clutch close it then hold the weight on the roller and spin the roller. This will remove some of the marker and show you where full shift is.
With all being good in the sled you then have an idea where you would like to be. If you like 1-1 find your spot on the weight at 1-1 and you will see where your getting to. Then move the mass center line of the weight to where you would like to be at. Ta da sled that pulls and dose what you want.
Take a look at the pictures attached.
The dark blue spring is now the Doo RER black/double violet. You need to run a hole saw over the inner snout of the helix so the inner diameter of the spring will fit over it. Two cuts with a hole saw will make clearance.
Don.
EDIT: on the M1000 and the smaller M's running the same helix and spring. This can be done because the torque feed back from the track from different gears and power the sled makes allows the same helix spring combo.
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Goodwin Performance, part #420-543 - GP DK Blue, I believe they discontinued it.
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I'm having a hard time getting my M8 to run proper rpm at 2000' elevation. I think the shift assist might be contributing to this.
I've tried the cat yellow/white, black/orange, orange/white, and slp blue/pink (140-340) and the only time I could get it to hold over 8000 rpm was with 68 gram weights. And it just didn't feel strong at all, and over reved lots when I was on and off the throttle. I'm at 2000' elevation. I had 71.5's in with the b/p only held 7950, It shifted up and grabbed 8150 a couple times and really pulled, so I tried 70's. No change. Never did hold over 8000.
My brothers 2011 M8 stock clutching runs great. I've tried the exact same set-up I just have the shift assist and it just doesn't work. I'm going to try taking it out and see what happens.
I've tried the cat yellow/white, black/orange, orange/white, and slp blue/pink (140-340) and the only time I could get it to hold over 8000 rpm was with 68 gram weights. And it just didn't feel strong at all, and over reved lots when I was on and off the throttle. I'm at 2000' elevation. I had 71.5's in with the b/p only held 7950, It shifted up and grabbed 8150 a couple times and really pulled, so I tried 70's. No change. Never did hold over 8000.
My brothers 2011 M8 stock clutching runs great. I've tried the exact same set-up I just have the shift assist and it just doesn't work. I'm going to try taking it out and see what happens.
I
Something sounds wierd there Destroyer. Mine pulled 8000 RPM at 7000' last year running a D&D white and 73.75g weights (with a pipe and intake).
D
I know it is now the Doo RER black/double violet if your looking for it. I can post the part number if you need.
Destroyer, Have you got your helix dowel pined? IF not don't blame the shift assist just yet. You need to mic the bearing race that the inner sheave slides on. Some are worn elongated and oval. Get a new bearing from cat. Put it into the sheave first. Clean up the bearing race so it is true and level all the way across again. The inner part of this bearing will be very very tight and will not just let you replace the bearing and slide it on the clutch. The ID of the bearing after installed will need to be milled to fit the new surface of the bearing race. Fit is nice and snug so some break in will be needed.
Now you see the extra holes from day one on these clutches between the helix bolts. The very first generation of these clutches on the 2004 T660 Turbo touring had dowel pins. The gold ring needs holes drilled in it so the pins can pass through it. The pins need to be put into the center hole of the three holes that hold the helix in. I will post the size of the pins with the spring part number above.
NEVER RUN THIS CLUTCH WITH OUT THIS GOLD RING OR FLAT WASHER UNDER THE HELIX. THE BEARING WILL MOVE OUT OF ITS PLACE AND INNER SHEAVE WILL GAUL THE BEARING RACE. THE SECONDARY WILL BE JUNK.
You drill the helix so the pins are nice and tight and leave .25" out of the helix. These pins then will make sure that your bearings ( one in the helix end and one in inner sheave ) line up perfectly. With out this if your inner bearing race is worn all the play can be put to one side of the bearing. This can be the case for all torsion systems as well if spring and helix installed at same time. Just set one bolt into the hole and see the play that is there. All that play can be placed to one side.
http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=4271760865985963098#
Imagine how off your sheaves can be if the inner sheave is not square with the bearings.
Check this out first.
Don.
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This might sound stupid, mainly because it is severely over looked, but clutching and rpm does not always have to do with the clutch components. You can severely run down rpm and track speed with a track that is too tight, or a few bad skid bearings.
The other thing, and probably the the most influential part this has not been spoken about on this thread is the belt and proper setup. Belt deflection and belt to sheave. Looking at the clutch faces and reading what I call belt bands on the faces really tells you a story about where, when and how your shift is starting, stalling and stopping. Post a couple pics of your clutches and it will give the gurus a little more to go off of.
The other thing, and probably the the most influential part this has not been spoken about on this thread is the belt and proper setup. Belt deflection and belt to sheave. Looking at the clutch faces and reading what I call belt bands on the faces really tells you a story about where, when and how your shift is starting, stalling and stopping. Post a couple pics of your clutches and it will give the gurus a little more to go off of.
D
Hey, thanks for the info. I also assume that my 6203 bearing might be in pieces. This would probably rob some RPM as well. It's a 2010 with 850 miles. I just took a 2008 diamond drive apart and the 6203 bearing failed. The sled ran fine. There's no way to tell if these bearings are shot without pulling the gearcase apart.
I've done all the basics over and over again, other than the dd bearing, but there is no metal in the oil yet. I removed a plastic washer and rpm was a better, but there was a little less backshift. How do you know to drill in the dowlls in the right spot and does just the two bolts left hold up.
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WYOBOY-- How many extra motor mounts are you running?? I have a 2009 M1000 with all of the SLP mods. Ever since I added the extra HP I have been shredding belts (lots of heat). I ride @ 0-5000 ft and did all of the clutching mods I could think of and nothing worked. I agree that with the big track and the extra HP I will need to fix the movement before I can get the clutching dialed in. I hope.
I have added 1 mount and one torque stop suggested by Shane @ Twisted Turbo. I noticed both of the rear mounts were ripped in the plate behind the clutches and I have been trying to find replacements but AC does not stock any longer they are making me buy the whole plate. Once this is done I should have the movement fixed and than I will concentrate on clutching again. I would like to stay in contact with you on your outcome and I will keep you posted on mine. The plate is 3 weeks back ordered but I will let you know when I get it out again.
If you have any other suggestions I am over looking please let me know. I have been pulling my hair out with this damn sled. Thanks for this thread and if you want to bounce anything off me I can email you my number. Sorry about the rambling
I have added 1 mount and one torque stop suggested by Shane @ Twisted Turbo. I noticed both of the rear mounts were ripped in the plate behind the clutches and I have been trying to find replacements but AC does not stock any longer they are making me buy the whole plate. Once this is done I should have the movement fixed and than I will concentrate on clutching again. I would like to stay in contact with you on your outcome and I will keep you posted on mine. The plate is 3 weeks back ordered but I will let you know when I get it out again.
If you have any other suggestions I am over looking please let me know. I have been pulling my hair out with this damn sled. Thanks for this thread and if you want to bounce anything off me I can email you my number. Sorry about the rambling
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