Rev 800 clutching - what works, what doesnt?

[Dynamo^Joe]

i sure wish there was some way i could just "import" all of this knowledge into my pea brain and then try to keep it there!!
thanks for all the info joe, if you could work on some way to lock this stuff into my head it would be greatly appreciated!!!

donald

Im going to have to take the whole month of april off to finish off my "Increase your Clutching IQ" book. I hope it will be a good book for tuners to read and enjoy to learn to tune by facts...not opinions.

 

[TetonStorm]

joe, that book will be great. Opinons are fun but facts are reality. Can't wait to see it

 

[summitsrule]

I have never had problems until the 07R model.
Damn I have the kit in triple rev's even...right to 1200cc's.

The TRA7, I have seen....
Gunk on pins
roller material mashing
roller seizing
sliding sheave bushing erosion
Sliding sheave button galley "TAPER" Like good gawd, a fking TAPER???? As the shift increases so does the rpms the sliding sheave cannot go full shift - taking an inside bore gage measuring across the button galley and the top of the galley the top is narrower?...that squeezes the governor cup and now you cannot upshift.
Now you get caught up in a cat/mouse game of adding flyweight so the clutch will push harder but then now you have applied too much flyweight for midrange track speeds that you want to see in snow, too much flyweight reveals low rpms, but boy will it go down the road 80mph....get in the powder and baawwwg...low rpms.
Then on the other end, you have correct rpms only under load and 9000 rpms down the trail?...
...this is the results of a "tapered button galley" [pic attached]

I ended up taking a clutch apart and sticking it in an oven, heating the clutch to 160 degrees and try to simulate hot operating clutch condition.

As heat is generated in the clutch, the tra lever material grows and starts to put the squeeze on the washers and rollers; This would cause the roller to seize and skid along the tra ramp. Everything fine on a cold clutch - its when the clutches get warm then hot, that's when the problem starts to reveal itself.
Taking the roller/washer assembly out, my friend lightly sanded in between the area of the fork of the tra lever and install new parts again and no more problem. Roller runs freely.

Another issue is the TRA lever is sticking down at the hinge/fastener area. With engine off, by hand, you can slowly rotate the primary and hear each arm fall to touch the tra ramp. Rotate the clutch fully around and should reveal 3-ticks hearing the arm touching the tra ramp.
If you do not hear each of the 3 arms touch their respective ramp then could be in for an arm that sticks when the clutch is hot and cause rpms drift high/lower. Everything fine on a cold clutch - its when the clutches get warm then hot, that's when the problem starts to reveal itself with rpms that hunt up and down - even on a flatland ride in deep snow. Everything fine on a cold clutch - its when the clutches get warm then hot, that's when the problem starts to reveal itself.

I have had customers open up their secondary and say they had one or two rollers that were stuck or seizing up....They get new rollers from the dealer and cannot install on the shaft. Remove a roller from a 2006 model and the rollers easily fit.
The quesion is - Is this tight fit from the 07 shaft being too large diameter? ...or from the roller hole diameter being too small?....Because a "used 2006 roller" fits fine.

This all before a clutch kit.

If a guy plays around with the jets, leaning out and running the engine under load, a low knock level code can be triggered and tell the ecm to adjust timing....now you have difficulty getting the w.o.t. rpms to come back up.

Engine mounts going soft contribute to a belt blowing.....

The 07R has been severely straining the powers of patience.

I believe and aggree with that pic being the culprit on some clutches. The only way I could get my sled to not eat belts, was to remove every second oring on the buttons that ride in them galleys. Once that was done the clutch would slide together effortlessly, almost loosely. Then I had to pull all pin weight to get rpms back up, as there was less force needed to close primary. But now imo the sled seems to not perform as good as others. I sure hope now that BRP updated my clutches and put those orings back in, that the galley has been machined out to work properly.

Does anyone know the specs on the bore of that galley, or the min/max out of round/parrallel?