A fine thing for the dealer to perform to a sled that's under warranty.
Not a great back country repair.
Primary Failure
- Thread starter JH@CM
- Start date
Not a great back country repair.
If the sled is in a bad spot I would take a battery grinder and extra batteries chisel and hammer and a new clutch and do it in the field, rather than trying to pull a dead sled. My .02 after doing it on my RZR not that bad of a job.
Of the 2 p22 i seen blow apart, all you needed to do was reassemble the clutch, take out broken bolt threads on pto. Easy with a screw driver, and install a new bolt. Have a screen shot or picture of how the p22 goes back together, makes it easy.
Agree. It’s part of the game. Unrealistic expectations. Can’t expect zero breakdowns and NASCAR like performance. Preparation of the inevitable can go along way. Looking back on the last 20 years of these sleds, they have come along ways.
If the pick/scribe doesn’t allow you to spin out the broken bolt easily enough, it can help to use a spring loaded punch in tandem with the pick. You may have to lightly grind the tip down as small and sharp as possible, without it being too small and breaking. I’ve used this 1,000’s of times to get out broken bolts.
And every sledder should have a high quality calibrated 1/2” torque wrench in their trailer and check the bolt periodically and at least 3-4 times after a clutch installation before ride. Pay attention. You will see what happens.
Snap-on is the only brand that fits this need.
The clutch is a press fit on a tapered flange using a fastener. Heat, torque, stretch? Pay attention.
Why do you think suspension bolts use loctite?
Snap-on is the only brand that fits this need.
The clutch is a press fit on a tapered flange using a fastener. Heat, torque, stretch? Pay attention.
Why do you think suspension bolts use loctite?
C
Funny thing, a fancy snap-on isn't the best for that application. Also, all of snap-on torque wrenches are CDI, so you can cut the price in half if you search for a CDI one. I have a snap-on box in the garage, and piles of their tools. I've also broken their tools.
What works really well is a simple bending beam. You can watch the torque build, see it move, etc. There's a reason they're still on the market, and lots of engine builders still swear by them.
G
Yes; exactly what made me move from audible back to bending beam TW years ago. Too many over torqued bolts in low torque applications where one "missed" the tone or the build up as you noted.
I have since gone to digital TWs as they offer best of both worlds in my option and easily calibrated.
So are you guys trying to say "1/4 an ooga dooga" Is no longer accurate for torque specs?
The dramatic reduction in diameter of the threaded end of the crankshaft bolt, especially compared to the P90 clutch, leads me to believe that Polaris put some complete moron in charge of that bolt design. For the P90 clutch, the nominal thread size is the same diameter as the unthreaded bolt shaft. Not that there is anything wrong with being a complete moron.
Had this happen on my old '92 Wildcat back in the day.. made sense then, as it was a real shaker. My 850 is slightly more refined, or so I thought
Finally got the sled out of the woods with the help of some great buds.
Dealer looked at it this morning and said they'll either re-weld on the old primary to get a puller into the crank, or grind it off the crank as has been mentioned.
So the wait begins.
Dealer looked at it this morning and said they'll either re-weld on the old primary to get a puller into the crank, or grind it off the crank as has been mentioned.
So the wait begins.
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