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M series clutch life

KSH

Steering Wheel Holder
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FYI... from what I was told by Dale Cutler at the JH hillclimbs.

The 2010 primary, from what I'm told will only fit on the 2010... the taper is the same... but the bolt on the 2010 is smaller...

Also, the 2010 Primarys (at least on the 800's) ran 2.5lb flyweight on the primary clutch to smooth out the engine a bit. (the crank was lighter in the 2010's)

SLP lists a different puller for the 2010 than they do for the previous years.

yes the puller and bolt are metric on the 2010 M series, also the puller is green in color so you don't mix them up, I cured all my maintenance issues with sleds, I trade every year:face-icon-small-hap

In previous years the 8's and 1000's had a different puller.
If you bought a puller for a 2010 8 or 1000 it will also fit the older 1000's
 
C

clutch man

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Sep 8, 2009
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La pine Oregon
I ride an 09 HCR with about 750 miles on it. Opened up the clutches for cleaning etc and found some movement on the rollers. Talked to the dealer today and it turns out while cat doesn't have a kit for these clutches, they do have a pin and roller kit for the 1999 bear cat with the wide rollers that fit the M8 units. Our local dealer has been making these repairs for sometime. Apparently the kit is about $120. CND and a couple of hours install...cheaper than a new clutch.

2 hours? what the hell :face-icon-small-con. They should be able to take one off rebuild it and install it in an hour, not that much to do. Even if it take 15 minuets to heat up the spider still should not take more than an hour.:face-icon-small-hap
 
T
Feb 8, 2010
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Nelson, B.C.
2 hours? what the hell :face-icon-small-con. They should be able to take one off rebuild it and install it in an hour, not that much to do. Even if it take 15 minuets to heat up the spider still should not take more than an hour.:face-icon-small-hap
remove the clutch, take it apart and clean, remove the spider, remove the buttons, remove the old pins and bushings, install new pins and bushings, install new buttons, install the spider, assemble the clutch, install and test....seems like a lot to get done in an hour....
 
C

clutch man

Well-known member
Sep 8, 2009
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La pine Oregon
remove the clutch, take it apart and clean, remove the spider, remove the buttons, remove the old pins and bushings, install new pins and bushings, install new buttons, install the spider, assemble the clutch, install and test....seems like a lot to get done in an hour....

When you have the right tools and been doing it for 20 years it goes fast.
 
T
Feb 8, 2010
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Nelson, B.C.
The problem with just changing rollers is if a roller goes out you know its got to be putting quite a bind on the bushing. I would either do a full rebuild or get a new one.
Pins, bushings and rollers are all together in this kit....for me it's pretty simple, I like to make sure my S#&t works when I'm out playing and if I need to replace pins, bushings etc once a year then so be it....cheaper than being broken down on the hill and cheaper than a new clutch because usually it's not just the clutch that goes one would also take out the weights and in my case thoses are Dalton.....
 
T
Feb 8, 2010
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Nelson, B.C.
Does it include the sheave(slide) bushings or the pin and roller bushings.
from what i could see, pin and roller bushings and side thrust bushings as well....sheave bushings (buttons)were not in the kit I saw. at 750 miles my pins/rollers and bushings were borderline according to the dealer so I'm in the process of finding out what Cat is going to do about this. If I have no luck I will be installing one of these kits along with a dalton spider shim.
 
G

geo

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Dec 1, 2007
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The most important cleaning is the first one before riding a new sled. Should be done at PDI, but rarely is.
The gunk sprayed on for transport combined with the dust and grit that happens while the sled is waiting for you, can cause a roller or two to skid on the first day out. Once it skids it starts a flat spot that creates an oval bushing wear. Once the arms are not giving equal pressure to the sheave the rest of the clutch bushings wear funny. Once the sheave starts to give the belt unequal pressure every revolution the belts starts to slip easier and more heat and wear occur. Holy makerel, LOL.

I spend a bit of time (very understated) on the new out of the box sled to make sure it's how the engineer wanted me to get it. Kinda anal maybe but I've learned from my years in the biz that not all machines are created equal. Usually it's the fault of a minimum wage a assembly guy or the manufacturing tolerances of the lowest bidder.
Clutches are part of it. Sometimes I completely disassemble and wash with hot soapy water (best), sometimes just air and brake cleaner on the rollers and bushings and acetone on the sheaves. After a couple of rides get rid of the new belt dust the same way and every time you break in a new belt.

Warranty or not, I put way too many miles on in a season to keep replacing the clutch. AC, Pol, or Doo all need the same care. Only Yamaha uses bushing material a little more tolerant to s**t.

Shouldn't have to. Many don't. Ignorance is bliss, lol.

Geo
 

WyoBoy1000

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from what i could see, pin and roller bushings and side thrust bushings as well....sheave bushings (buttons)were not in the kit I saw. at 750 miles my pins/rollers and bushings were borderline according to the dealer so I'm in the process of finding out what Cat is going to do about this. If I have no luck I will be installing one of these kits along with a dalton spider shim.

I'm talking about the main slide bushings, the one that is on the main shaft that the outer plate and outer clutch sheave slide on, if the tolerance is loose it could cause some serious binding.
 

Stack

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Our 06 M6 is in need of a primary after 3000 miles, it will be a summertime upgrade. I am also going to add a new 10.4 secondary as the stock 10.0 is getting a little long in the tooth and can use an upgrade as well.

John
 

WyoBoy1000

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Slide bushings...buttons, we are talking the same thing ..not in the kit...

I am not talking about the buttons. Maybe I'm not calling them by there right name but I am talking about the bushings(or what ever the are). If you look at the outer part of your of your clutch you can see where the shaft in the center of the clutch is, the outer bolt on plate has a bushing that slides on the center shaft as does the outer clutch sheave. If a roller goes out it can cause the outer parts to shift and bind at a wedge angle and thus creating slop in them.
 
T
Feb 8, 2010
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Nelson, B.C.
I am not talking about the buttons. Maybe I'm not calling them by there right name but I am talking about the bushings(or what ever the are). If you look at the outer part of your of your clutch you can see where the shaft in the center of the clutch is, the outer bolt on plate has a bushing that slides on the center shaft as does the outer clutch sheave. If a roller goes out it can cause the outer parts to shift and bind at a wedge angle and thus creating slop in them.
I looked at the kit again and there are no actual clutch main bushings in the kit...
 
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