Its POSSIBLE that just a couple times my normally precise thumb control MIGHT have slipped for just a second or two:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap
First Ride: Yamaha Viper MT-X 162 LE
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
T
:rockon:
What is interesting to note here is that a particular method to seat the rings may/may not be a good method to break in other parts of the the combustion engine. Nobody ever tells you that part of the equation. Especially in a 4 stroke. You have cam lobes, lifters, various bearings throughout and gears and other moving parts that require there own set of break in preceedures that may or may not follow the same procedure of seating the rings. 2 stroke engines are obviously a little different but similar in nature
So the idea of properly breaking in an engine is not an exact science by any stretch. I am a firm believer of just going a little easier then the normal way you ride. Get some good heat cycles and vary the throttle as much as possible without holding wide open for very long in the first few hundred miles.
So the idea of properly breaking in an engine is not an exact science by any stretch. I am a firm believer of just going a little easier then the normal way you ride. Get some good heat cycles and vary the throttle as much as possible without holding wide open for very long in the first few hundred miles.
This is my 5th Yamaha 4 stroke now.
I followed the Yamaha break-in procedure to the letter on the other new sleds I bought, and have had ZERO issues with the engines.
Is it because I followed their break-in procedure?
Not a clue.
Just know that I did as the manufacturer requested, and everything turned out pretty well for me.
This sled will have a VERY short life as a normally aspirated engine.
I will be lucky if I can squeeze in another full day's riding before its time to begin bolting on the Turbo Kit.
So there is really no way for the 300-500 mile full break-in to happen this time around.
I followed the Yamaha break-in procedure to the letter on the other new sleds I bought, and have had ZERO issues with the engines.
Is it because I followed their break-in procedure?
Not a clue.
Just know that I did as the manufacturer requested, and everything turned out pretty well for me.
This sled will have a VERY short life as a normally aspirated engine.
I will be lucky if I can squeeze in another full day's riding before its time to begin bolting on the Turbo Kit.
So there is really no way for the 300-500 mile full break-in to happen this time around.
Turbo
Did you decide what kit you are going to do?
Did you decide what kit you are going to do?
I have to apologize to Chris and motojunkie, just could not wait for Xmas! Skis do suck tho:face-icon-small-hap
Oregon Trail sports
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Looks great!
Ya, I have to admit, I think the skis are probably too narrow.
But I am withholding final call on that one till I have at least another full day riding.
Nice report. From what you described is the exact reason I love a light weight sled like the Pro. Less physicaly excertion required allows me to ride longer.
Question, would having the nose more planted be a bad thing in deep powder? Sounds like your having a little bit of trouble getting used to a sled that feels lighter in the front and up on the snow better. Or did I misread what your talkin about. Wider skis are always better in powder. I would consider a Mohawk or 8" powerhound just for camparison. If the light feel bothers you on the trail just do some larger aggressive carbide for more of a slot car feel while getting up to the good stuff. Does not hurt in the powder at all. I ran 7.5" carbide shaper bars on my 8" slydogs with no issues in the powder.
Question, would having the nose more planted be a bad thing in deep powder? Sounds like your having a little bit of trouble getting used to a sled that feels lighter in the front and up on the snow better. Or did I misread what your talkin about. Wider skis are always better in powder. I would consider a Mohawk or 8" powerhound just for camparison. If the light feel bothers you on the trail just do some larger aggressive carbide for more of a slot car feel while getting up to the good stuff. Does not hurt in the powder at all. I ran 7.5" carbide shaper bars on my 8" slydogs with no issues in the powder.
T
I had Ski doo Pilot DS skis on my 1100 T one trip and I liked them. Then I went to 8" slydogs and I found them to be very hard to turn in the powder. If I was to do it all over again I would do the Ski doo Skis again. Maybe the new DS3.
Interesting, as a Doo guy, I've never been fond of the DS ski. I prefer the Pilot over the DS.
I'm trying out the 8" Powderhounds on the new Viper...
I'm trying out the 8" Powderhounds on the new Viper...
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In all honesty I was riding the sled VERY gently just trying to break in the engine.
Until we have a real vase and I get a chance to open her up, I won't be able to fifer a real ride impression/review.
C
You might want to give the sled some anti rejection drugs so it doesn't try to reject the poo skis....
B
i did the same thing,neil had a bunch at the shop when i was there so i got a set to try.:face-icon-small-hap
Lol how many times do you have to say this to people lol!!!!!!!!! Guys he just went out for a BREAK IN RIDE!!!! Lol.
It's all good.
Everyone, MYSELF included, are eager to find out just how this sled rides.
If I wasn't up in Montana with family this weekend, I WOUKD BE OUT RIDING!!
sled was making some spitting noises. Now I know what it was.lol Hopefully going out riding with Thistledoo tomorrow and see how it runs
Picked mine up today, Thankd Chazwildman
Finally got the chance to pick up the LE, got it home and have been peeling decals and adjusting the front shock on the track, and adjusting the handlebars at a suggestion of Chaz. Can't wait for the first true ride
Finally got the chance to pick up the LE, got it home and have been peeling decals and adjusting the front shock on the track, and adjusting the handlebars at a suggestion of Chaz. Can't wait for the first true ride
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