There are definitely two things going on here: some of us are indeed too quick to throw parts at our sleds before evaluating how it's working and what really needs to be addressed; on the other hand, you have to be pretty unaware (or maybe too into mountain beers) to be unable to notice a difference in clutching changes. It's pretty silly to blindly throw a kit on because it's "the best." But it's also silly, to my mind at least, to ride a sled that's out of tune, or that you don't like the feel of - and clutching has more to do with those things than anything else that's easily changed in the engine/drivetrain. After you've read up on clutching, then tinkered with it on your sled for a while, you'll get a pretty good understanding of what does what. Then, if something feels off in the factory clutching, you'll probably have some idea whether Joe Blow's Killer Klutch Kit (don't put that acronym on your sled, even it Joe's kit works great) is going to address that "problem" area or not, or maybe even make it worse.
I'm the type who'll tinker just to tinker. So clutching is a "fun" thing to play with for me. Maybe I want a little softer engagement, so I'll try a softer primary spring or weights with more mass at the heel. Maybe I want more backshift, so I go to a shallower helix or stiffer secondary spring. I might have to back-track and take a different approach, but eventually I come to a combination that performs and responds better than before. Even an "if it's not broke, don't fix it" rider would probably notice the difference; to them, the difference might not be worth the effort, but it doesn't mean it's imperceptible. Obviously unless somebody's totally OCD, it's going to be "good enough" at some point. One thing I've noticed: when the snow's great, my clutching seems pretty spot on; when it's crummy, I'm always finding the next little quirk to work on...
