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another shaft failure

Dam Dave

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Because Polaris will address it under warranty. A person can buy this part and spend 5 or 10 minutes bolting it on and ride with a little bit more confidence until Polaris replaces the shafts.

EXACTLY 5 minutes and 70 bucks is a lot cheaper and faster than spending your own money on a earlier shaft( if you can even find one) and spending hours installing it JUST for peace of mind..............just mu 2C:face-icon-small-coo
 

SSABMUD

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The factory drive stuff is not balanced but it is probably close enough for the speed they are spinning. These clamps look like it would make the driveshaft flop around like a sore dink. No engineer here but throw one in a sled without the track and spin it up and see what happens. If it does not jump around then you will probably sell some until polaris gets their act together.
 

apex jeff

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You really dont think they factored balance into the design of a drive shaft? :rolleyes:
Not sure they did?... I mean to say the intent is there,although it does baffle me how they chose a new and totally different drive system,only to bolt it to an existing design (shaft).Rotating mass and shaft end loads were dramatically changed from chain drive to belt drive. On top of this the move from a proven
steel shaft to a glued aluminum shaft,post prototype pre- production,seems a little hurried. Has anyone considered the strength of this new shaft about the time a hidden land mine strikes the center driver? I really hope Polaris can figure this out,the last two seasons were great. We saw older riders,out of shape riders,smaller riders,more women riders,brand new riders,all join or rejoin the sport,all due to the lightweight more agile and reliable Pro.
 
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X2Freeride

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Not sure they did?... I mean to say the intent is there,although it does baffle me how they chose a new and totally different drive system,only to bolt it to an existing design (shaft).Rotating mass and shaft end loads were dramatically changed from chain drive to belt drive. On top of this the move from a proven
steel shaft to a glued aluminum shaft,post prototype pre- production,seems a little hurried. Has anyone considered the strength of this new shaft about the time a hidden land mine strikes the center driver? I really hope Polaris can figure this out,the last two seasons were great. We saw older riders,out of shape riders,smaller riders,more women riders,brand new riders,all join or rejoin the sport,all due to the lightweight more agile and reliable Pro.

I believe the idea behind this shaft was that it was supposed to be able to handle intense shock loads and not come apart.
 

skibreeze

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If this part doesnt void the warranty. Polaris has voided warranty for a sled that had the hood foam removed.

Also with their track record for coming up with timely fixes to problems since I dont know 2005, I wouldn't hold my breath your still waiting for a factory fix for the 800 cfi.

They voided those warranties for adding pipes, cans, and turbos, changing air fuel ratios that are dangerously lean to start with, so don't try to compare the 2.

Timely fix? Exactly why these guys are coming up with the bandaids. I believe that the design of the shafts is fine, IMO it is an issue with the glue not being mixed correctly. I believe this from guys posting that their glue is still soft.

IMO the motor is a whole different debate, the EPA is a giant hinderance to them fixing it, and yes I did give up on that one ;) I just put new RK TEK pistons in a brand new Polaris motor. I turned up the oiler since the EPA doesn't give a **** about reliability.
 
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Tysonh

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Yes, I see nothing wrong with the factory glued shaft if they had applied the proper ratio of base and hardener and mixed right. These shafts will survive when the glue is applied correctly! Just like Mark Williams' Accu-bond aluminum drive shafts will handle 60% more torque and horsepower than the best steel drive shaft of the same size! It is unfortunate that some moron on the assembly line didn't get the dispenser set up correctly on an unknown number of shafts but they will survive and all these bandaid will not be needed. Check your glue if it is setup you are fine! ride it like you stole it!

I am a welder by trade and this technology will take work away from my peers and I, but it is a proven technology when the joint is engineered correctly and the glue is mixed and applied correctly.

Tysonh
As for the balance issue, I do not ride stock sleds. I buy individual parts and rework every one and build the sled from scratch. Yes I do balance everything even the driveshafts on my Mountain sleds, because I can. If you want to throw your billet parts on your sled so be it. I don't want to argue with you over it. From the spelling and grammar in your post you don't seem very well educated and think you could have given the clamp a tiny bit more thought and not had to make two different pieces, as one could have been a mirror image of the other and been much cheaper to make and eliminated all this balance talk entirely. Would have used less material as well. I do not have a CNC machine at my disposal yet so do what you will with yours. Good luck with your clamp. I would also bet the stub end is forged not cast as you seem to think.

Sorry my grammar isn't great but you cant make the peace mirror images because to mount the peace on the sled for guys that don't want to pull the shaft out u have to slide it on and if you have a look at the shaft you will see u cant. Send me your design and ill build it. Cast or forged there not 100% balanced. And for the uneducated hillbilly i am, i do own machines and can build the parts to try and help guys. I don't even have a 13 and theses aren't going to make me wealthy but i am trying. As for you, your just being a dick running everything down so big guy design a peace and ill build it to your specs if its feasible. Sorry if my grammar is bad.
 
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Tysonh

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Sorry my grammar isn't great but you cant make the peace mirror images because to mount the peace on the sled for guys that don't want to pull the shaft out u have to slide it on and if you have a look at the shaft you will see u cant. Send me your design and ill build it. Cast or forged there not 100% balanced. And for the uneducated hillbilly i am, i do own machines and can build the parts to try and help guys. I don't even have a 13 and theses aren't going to make me wealthy but i am trying. As for you, your just being a dick running everything down so big guy design a peace and ill build it to your specs if its feasible. Sorry if my grammar is bad.

And i have looked at my design and have found that i can make it more Semitic so i am going to but not 100% balanced that for sure
 

m8magicandmystery

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i got no dog in this fight...but come on...letting this thread stray into a percieved thought that the shaft balance may be in question when using some of the aftermarket clamps is really reaching for an issue that probably is non existant/or realistically important...i know that and im a dumb turd...
 
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knifedge

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The driveshaft design "may" have worked if they had inserted the endcaps into the shaft another 1 inch.
 

Kraven

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The stub is steel and the shaft is aluminum.

Actually, aluminum is currently being welded to steel in the 2013 Honda Accords being built here in this Country.

From page 39 in the December issue of SNOWTECH

"HONDA DEVELOPS WELDING TECHNOLOGY for DISSIMILAR METALS"

Friction Stir Welding (FSW) Allows for Steel to be welded to Aluminum


**************************************************************************************

BTW, the "ANTI-GLUE" rants on here are out of control.

My Bud has a Warren Johnson powered (as in 1000+ H.P.) NHRA Pro-Stock running 6.60's in the 1/4 mile @ 200 M.P.H. leaving the starting line carrying the front wheels of a 2350 lb car, all on an ALUMINUM 3" diameter ROUND drive-shaft with GLUED end yokes. They're not square sided, hexagon shaped and not a spot of weld at all, and it stays together.

Next time you're at an N.H.R.A. event, check it out for yourself.

Do the calculations, assuming the yoke extends into the drive-shaft 1.5 " , that's only 4.7 square inches of surface area of contact and it accommodates 1000+ Horsepower, 2350 pounds of weight, and stays together run after run after run, and SFI certified. You don't hear about any drive-shafts failing under those extreme conditions.

In the case of the RMK drive-shafts, to say that the glue is a mis-engineered concept is simply wrong. More like a defect in either the batch of glue, and/or insufficient glue injected into the contact areas.
 
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byeatts

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Actually, aluminum is currently being welded to steel in the 2013 Honda Accords being built here in this Country.

From page 39 in the December issue of SNOWTECH

"HONDA DEVELOPS WELDING TECHNOLOGY for DISSIMILAR METALS"

Friction Stir Welding (FSW) Allows for Steel to be welded to Aluminum


**************************************************************************************

BTW, the "ANTI-GLUE" rants on here are out of control.

My Bud has a Warren Johnson powered (as in 1000+ H.P.) NHRA Pro-Stock running 6.60's in the 1/4 mile @ 200 M.P.H. leaving the starting line carrying the front wheels of a 2350 lb car, all on an ALUMINUM 3" diameter ROUND drive-shaft with GLUED end yokes. They're not square sided, hexagon shaped and not a spot of weld at all, and it stays together.

Next time you're at an N.H.R.A. event, check it out for yourself.

Do the calculations, assuming the yoke extends into the drive-shaft 1.5 " , that's only 4.7 square inches of surface area of contact and it accommodates 1000+ Horsepower, 2350 pounds of weight, and stays together run after run after run, and SFI certified. You don't hear about any drive-shafts failing under those extreme conditions.

In the case of the RMK drive-shafts, to say that the glue is a mis-engineered concept is simply wrong. More like a defect in either the batch of glue, and/or insufficient glue injected into the contact areas.
Your in denial, After your shaft goes then lets get your opinion,,,,
 

mountainhorse

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I know that all of us are concerned about these issues...and what that may mean in the end to our riding.

For me though, the issue of bonding being a questionable process... a moot point for me.

From the FAA approved Airliners that that rely heavily on bonding, to Trucks and cars, To NASA equipment, to the boats that I build... It is a time tested method of joining parts together.

Often, bonding is superior to welding.. no need to re heat-treat or normalize... and strength...

The assembly of SOME of these driveshafts seems to have suffered in the quality department... but the design and implementation of adhesive joining into the shafts is, IMO, a good system.

It may be foreign to many... and seem new, but it has been around in the transportation industry, as pointed out in Matt's thread, for decades.
 

Hawkster

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When the bonding began being used on the auto doors it's weak point was the bond between the hinge and the cab and not the hinge and the door . The solution was to bolt the hinge to the cab while still using the bonding agent , if I do remember the body shop talk ?? Been quite a few years ago . That was just a door being slammed and some clown hanging on . The bonding is being overly abused here . First time I ever walked into a hanger and seen a guy with a iron , that looked like it came from Santa Clause , reskinning a Cub horrified me .
 
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