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09 m8 belts exploding

Diamond8

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 7, 2007
388
115
43
Tri-Cities Washington
Actually..........the problem only happens wide open on the trail at speed.......in the deep stuff climbing when the drive train is loaded up no worries keeping the throttle pinned..........but on the flats at speeds nearing the top end.......if the throttle is held to long........Bam! Done.....but off trail no worries. I don't know.......but the belts are expensive to be blowing them so often. It's good to see folks chimming in and trying to help.......that's what forums are supposed to be about.
 
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digdug

New member
Sep 26, 2001
252
0
16
53
I have an 09 M8 162 with a cutler secondary setup. I bought the sled used and love everything except the belt issues I have had. I ride Idaho mountains and not flat trails and blew 3 belts climbing (I mean blew). It ate at least 3 others that I caught before they blew. I have had the dealer check alignment twice and they installed the new hard motor mount deals. They say my alignment is perfect but I continue to have issues. My sled has side vents too btw.....any ideas? Could it be the cutler secondary?
 
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B
Nov 27, 2007
735
120
43
Rovaniemi, Finland
Pal has M1000 SP -09 and he blowed belt at lake when while doing some races. Sled was completely stock back then. After that we have only run in trees and no more belt blows. So only one belt lost in two years. Belt will blow if you hit WOT at trail - that's sure.
 
S
Sep 16, 2010
238
39
28
It would seem a lot of these belt failures are happening with a mountain machine, running wide open on a straight stretch. Should not really be surprising, these sleds are geared and clutched for high load conditions (deep powder, climbing, etc). If you run them wide open across a flat, or downhill, no surprise you will blow belts! Kind of like taking a drag car and running it in NASCAR. Leave it wide open for long enough and something is going to give!
 
D
Nov 28, 2007
266
74
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51
Not sure you you guys got the memo on adding a .060 shim to the big end of the spider? This would add more leverage to the roller pinching the belt more. The shift is bouncing out on the tip .125" more then the mass can hold the belt. Take a weight out look at it and you can see the roller marks. YOu can see where the shift is bumping to and where is spends most of its time. Adding .060 moves the most of the time farther out on the tip .125" problems solved.

Then you run into some with the need for the motor to move out. Cat changed the offset bar part way through the year. It helped but as the belt wears it will pop easier. Moving the motor over on the 800 and 1000 out .125" fixed it all. YOu can move the secondary in with out running on the drive bearing and stay aligned. The more you move the secondary in the cooler both clutches run. Once you start seeing heat again move the secondary back out a touch.

Don.
 
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ACMtnCat

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
2,348
1,359
113
Utah
Not sure you you guys got the memo on adding a .060 shim to the big end of the spider? This would add more leverage to the roller pinching the belt more. The shift is bouncing out on the tip .125" more then the mass can hold the belt. Take a weight out look at it and you can see the roller marks. YOu can see where the shift is bumping to and where is spends most of its time. Adding .060 moves the most of the time farther out on the tip .125" problems solved.

Then you run into some with the need for the motor to move out. Cat changed the offset bar part way through the year. It helped but as the belt wears it will pop easier. Moving the motor over on the 800 and 1000 out .125" fixed it all. YOu can move the secondary in with out running on the drive bearing and stay aligned. The more you move the secondary in the cooler both clutches run. Once you start seeing heat again move the secondary back out a touch.

Don.

How are you moving the motor out .125"?
 
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