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Update.
My experiment was a failure lol. You need a 'putor to watch a 'putor. Did get some info that made me frustrated because I can't afford a Vipec lol.
Started with Grn-whts.
Soleniod signal (voltage gone) on mine is anywhere from 6500 to 7200 as best as I could see??? Trouble is no consistent data log. Eye and stock tach are not very good ways to gather this info. Because of this I wasn't able to put any elevation info together.
Grn-whts (as best as I could tell) opened almost, if not instantly with the signal. Sometimes it seemed to try up to 3 times to open as best as my eye could see. If I was trying to be slow through these ranges a trail bump was enough to go from 6400 to 6900 on the tach.
Weird thing is playing in this range of trying to catch the rpm I got constant light det shut downs. My map with these springs and other stuff doesn't get this light det shut down in normal use except once in a while on the trail up if I "cruise" too long. I always thought this was an elevation thing.
Add fuel (lots) to control it and as soon as I get back to just riding I have to pull it all back out or I feel-hear the performance loss.
Put the orange in ( used the stock caps because they already had the hole lol). Same inconsistencies but I'm pretty sure they gave a slight delay to fully open (only place the micro-switch is triggered). Something like one-one thousand at these light throttle positions.
The light det shutdowns were much less often and a tweek at one rpm and 2 throttle positions (6750, 20 to 40%, plus 5 %) took it away and didn't feel the need to remove it when going back to just riding.
I've left the orange in for a few rides now but want to retry the grn-whts later without watching stuff. Wish it was quick and easy to change these out in the field to hear and feel the difference side by side but I think I have to try.
What I learned. Micro switches do not last very long mounted to a motor. When I've had good snow (enough to load things up) I tend not to watch much and can see less lol. My eye and tach are way too slow to get technical at slow throttle input and definitely impossible to view this trying to accelerate with any throttle. Even visually there is a difference when the actual valve opens compared to solenoid deactivation at light throttle between the 2 springs. Pin-it and I don't know a thing about what is happening here.
Pinning it and feeling and listening and punching in some #'s is still my best form of tuning working with a stock ECU.
It takes a 'putor to watch a 'putor.
Things I'm guessing at. I believe there is more than just rpm signaling the solenoid. I think there is a way the 'putor senses acceleration of either the thumb or the engine rpm. I even think my pipe temp changed stuff. I think when I put the softer springs in right after the orange I will learn more.
My experiment was a failure lol. You need a 'putor to watch a 'putor. Did get some info that made me frustrated because I can't afford a Vipec lol.
Started with Grn-whts.
Soleniod signal (voltage gone) on mine is anywhere from 6500 to 7200 as best as I could see??? Trouble is no consistent data log. Eye and stock tach are not very good ways to gather this info. Because of this I wasn't able to put any elevation info together.
Grn-whts (as best as I could tell) opened almost, if not instantly with the signal. Sometimes it seemed to try up to 3 times to open as best as my eye could see. If I was trying to be slow through these ranges a trail bump was enough to go from 6400 to 6900 on the tach.
Weird thing is playing in this range of trying to catch the rpm I got constant light det shut downs. My map with these springs and other stuff doesn't get this light det shut down in normal use except once in a while on the trail up if I "cruise" too long. I always thought this was an elevation thing.
Add fuel (lots) to control it and as soon as I get back to just riding I have to pull it all back out or I feel-hear the performance loss.
Put the orange in ( used the stock caps because they already had the hole lol). Same inconsistencies but I'm pretty sure they gave a slight delay to fully open (only place the micro-switch is triggered). Something like one-one thousand at these light throttle positions.
The light det shutdowns were much less often and a tweek at one rpm and 2 throttle positions (6750, 20 to 40%, plus 5 %) took it away and didn't feel the need to remove it when going back to just riding.
I've left the orange in for a few rides now but want to retry the grn-whts later without watching stuff. Wish it was quick and easy to change these out in the field to hear and feel the difference side by side but I think I have to try.
What I learned. Micro switches do not last very long mounted to a motor. When I've had good snow (enough to load things up) I tend not to watch much and can see less lol. My eye and tach are way too slow to get technical at slow throttle input and definitely impossible to view this trying to accelerate with any throttle. Even visually there is a difference when the actual valve opens compared to solenoid deactivation at light throttle between the 2 springs. Pin-it and I don't know a thing about what is happening here.
Pinning it and feeling and listening and punching in some #'s is still my best form of tuning working with a stock ECU.
It takes a 'putor to watch a 'putor.
Things I'm guessing at. I believe there is more than just rpm signaling the solenoid. I think there is a way the 'putor senses acceleration of either the thumb or the engine rpm. I even think my pipe temp changed stuff. I think when I put the softer springs in right after the orange I will learn more.
