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What board rack do you guys think works best?

N
Aug 26, 2010
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0
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I have the CFR rack on both of my sleds and love them. I have both ski and snowboard holders and they both work well. It has been about three winters of 20+ days with no issues.
 
I second the CFR solution. First winter built my own from cheap ATV gun rack holders and they broke on the third trip - catastrophic failure. I can't source the high quality key pieces of the CFR kit anywhere else - the stuff just rocks, but it is expensive.

I have the Double D rack and two board holders on one sled. I just bought a second one for the other sled and went with the Metal Snowboard rack. It's simple to install and well designed...don't think I'll have any problems with the tunnel on an 08' M-1000. I would really like to be able to do two boards per sled in the event of having to leave one sled and double up on the way out, but I figure at that point the passenger can keep it on their pack.

I'm three winters of zero problems and outstanding performance on the Double D rack, so buying the Metal just seemed to make sense. It's amazing how hard it actually can be to haul boards on a sled. The vibrations and forces just destroy things. Buy nice or buy twice, as the saying goes.

Good luck!
 
L

Lushbomb

Moderator: Premium Member
Nov 26, 2008
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If u can't fashion your own 20$ rack.. cfr for $200 and a 1000% markup works.. I'm on 2600 miles with my ATV gun rack setup for $20.. it took all of 10 minutes and 1 drilled hole to setup..
 

Carbon77

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Jun 12, 2008
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Cfr is good. But expensive. I've made racks for both mine and my buddies sled out of a sheet of aluminum and some uhmw plastic. They both have been bulletproof and cost about $20 to make.
 
S

SpencerA

Member
Mar 30, 2010
679
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Portland Oregon
I know most of you guys probably run longer tracks but I'm only running a 144". With the CFR set up do you think I'll have enough tunnel to mount that set up still?
 
R
Mar 16, 2010
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I have a CFR and a homemade unit. The CFR is bomber, and the biggest advantage it gave us is time - with all the homebrew contraptions I'd tried BEFORE the CFR, I did not realize how much time I was spending putting skis on/off the sled. Skis load fast on the CFR, and stay put. I have a "Double D" with ski holders - it has ~60 days on it now. One strap broke - the end of the ladder, but it is still long enough to work. I _think_ it vibrated on the trailer with the strap pushed too far down, leaving ~4" of unsupported strap flapping around.

It is on a 144" Skidoo ZX chassis - it does have a 156" track, but it'd work just fine on a stock 144.

I've got to take pictures of my homemade rack for my new sled - 05 Summit 1000 with a 162" track. It is a piece of ZX bumper mounted upside down, which has a bar bolted to it. Sticking straight up off that bar are some metal tubes. Snowboard binding straps go around the skis between the bindings. Forward on the tunnel is a piece of plastic with grooves cut in it, tips fit in those, more snowboard straps hold the tips down. The 1000's tunnel is long enough that the skis are behind the seat - not down the side of the tunnel. Zero in-the-way. Will take pics. This is the first homemade rack I've made that seems to come close to the CFR in terms of speed and durability - only had skis in it a few times this year, but zero issues so far.

Building a rack is not HARD, and some have had good luck with homebrew, but I made 3 before I figured out how to make one that'll _work_ - and if I'd not stumbled on this one for the 1000, I'd have bought another CFR. Yeah, they're spendy, but they WORK.
 

tomx

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Nov 26, 2007
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CFR, it's been bombproof. I've demolished my tunnel, rolled the sled numerous times with board in rack, and hit many a tree with the rack still kicking after some 2000+ miles. With that said, if I was putting a rack on a new sled today, I probably would save $180 and go with Lushbombs gun rack setup.
 
T
Feb 1, 2010
262
163
43
Entiat, WA
I have an X-Rack that I ran on my XP, and it worked awesome. Haven't mounted it up to my 2012 Assault yet, but it sure did work great on my XP. Even strapped a Stihl 460 chainsaw several times. Great rack.
 

kidwoo

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Dec 28, 2008
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If you're just using boards, then yeah the CFR is fine.


The one thing that will keep me from buying one is a buddy of mine who's broken two skis on two separate occasions with a CFR from leaning over in a pow turn on the way out to our ski zone.

Really rockered skis will catch in the snow and drag.

Not a fan.
 
D

dre

Member
Jan 25, 2008
152
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Portland OR
vimeo.com
made my own

I made my own...it's a bit ghetto, but has worked just fine & is quick to use.

Old snowboard binding strap: 0$ (thanks US outdoor)
Leather strap & hardware: $5 (oregon leather co)
Plastic: $8 approx
Stainless Screws: $10 maybe
Total time: about 1-2 hrs.

Dre.

7547827

7547828
 
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D

dre

Member
Jan 25, 2008
152
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Portland OR
vimeo.com
Thats a pretty nice looking rack. Details please.


Great comment. If I were a chick I'd take that a different way.

....I cut & stacked sheets of Nylon-type plastic to create U shaped board slots. Screwed them together & bolted to sled tunnel. Can't recall the name of the plastic, but it's not brittle & doesn't get brittle in the cold. Use Nylon if you can. About 10-12mm thick.
I cut mine with an woodworking electric off-cut saw. Cuts easy & clean
You can counter sink bolts using a wood working countersink bit.

I used stainless steel m6 bolts (6mm)or whatever non-metric equivalent is available. The Stainless bolts are worth the extra cost IMO. They don't rust & are actually easier to cut to length that hardened normal steel. A sharp blade with a hack saw works great. Don't heat up the stainless bolts by cutting with an electric grinder...stainless hardens with heat so this can be counter productive.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/album.php?albumid=2890&pictureid=25182

4 years ago I built the first prototype of this setup & it was a bit more minimal. I broke a board mount when I rolled the sled, so I beefed up the plastic parts (pictured above). I also learnt that attaching the rear mount to the top of the tunnel helped reduce fatigue of the plastic, reduce tunnel deformation (bending) at the mounting point & reduce board movement.

The strap is straightforward. Snowboard binding parts. Strap extension is a thick piece of leather belt (about 4mm thick) with a nylon webbing backer. Strap mount has metal washers either side of the tunnel to top it pulling thru the aluminum.
Cut all bolts inside the tunnel to length. The track can hit these if they're long.

It's a bit of work, & if you're into making stuff (& have the time) it's fulfilling. If you're short on time, the suggestions mentioned earlier seem good. Lots of choices these days.
 
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