SLP (BDX) helix for mountains 44/36 (Radiused) or 44/36 (Progressive)

[Frostbite]

Ski, I am with you here!

"would rather running heavier weight and more spring, than drop weight from the arms".

I am trying the SLP Black/Pink spring. It's install and I'm just waiting for some fresh snow. The stock yellow/white is a 122/285 spring. The SLP Black/Pink is a 120/340 spring. If you tried such a spring, the engagement should be similar to what you have now but, you should pull a bunch more RPM up top.

On the helix issue, I'm glad you tried a 38 degree helix (Because I wanted to as well). I'm still suprised you couldn't pull it with ease. I wonder if it's the shim/deflection issue causing you grief?

Take care

 

[furthur]

I'm gonna guess that 36 deg. helix will fix most of your problems. For primary spring, you could try (spring numbers adjusted to AC 2.563"/1.313"): erlandson red (137-291?) or yellow (158-300?),or SLP blue/yellow (131-301) or blue/pink (130-330), or there's the Cutler gold (135-305). I didn't list the AC orange/white, 'cause it's mostly higher at start than end of shift. I'm sure there are others. Everyting else checks out, no other reason to be down on power (old gas, methanol wire pulled, power valves clean, etc.)?

John

 

[skidooboy]

thanks for the numbers guys. in a perfect world i would look for several springs with a 110-120ish start and a 300-350 finish, then test till one finds the sweet spot. then you get the lower engagement and the sled wont lurch and trench off the start. and the stiffer finish would give you more rpms for the heavier weights. should pull like a freight train with the right matched spring. the slp spring you posted frosty sounds like the ticket with 68's in the primary.

am i wrong or did someone say cat and slp dont measure preload, and total force the same? want to make sure i am comparing apples to apples.

further, the sled is an 09 with less than 90 total miles on her. no known power issues, i am sure once the sled frees up with several hundred miles on her, she'll gain hp too.

now for the huge bummer..... i lost compression on the pto side cylinder this am 10 miles into the day. it has a whopping 50 psi compression. i am hoping it is just a head
o-ring blown, and they can fix it here locally.

it was very cold this am (-10 faranheight), i warmed the sled till the exchangers were warm to the touch, rode around the lot at the lodge a while, visited a few friends staying here in the cabins outback, then we headed out for the days riding. trail cruising about 35-45 mph at 8000 feet elevation, the sled just nosed over and stopped running. i stopped pulled the side cover, and rolled the clutch over, she was free no seize. hopin it is just the o-ring sounds like a common problem with the laydown motor.

i had checked the rpms about 10 minutes before it shut down, and on the trail it was 77-7850. that is good for trails but, it would be just alittle low in the deep and up higher. better than yesterday with the multi angle helix.

now i just hope it isnt a terminal motor issue. and i hope cat stands behind this. i only have three half tanks of fuel (approx 15 gallons) through this, the sled actually had some small amount of premix still in the tank. the failure didnt appear fuel or oil related but, i wont know till they tear into her. i am bummin 30 hour one way drive in the ice storm of the century, get here for on great day of riding and the next she goes down. sux to be me. LOL! ski

 

[Frostbite]

I'm so sorry ski I hope it's something simple and definately under warranty.

I know misery enjoys company and I don't have many more miles than you but, now I have a big crack in my hood from merley opening my hood where the hood hinge cables attach. I'm not one bit happy about having a huge crack in the hood of my new sled.

Now, you have me wondering if Cat warranties cracks in hoods from merely opening them (slowly at that)?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

ski, sorry but you four cornered a piston running it in that really lean throttle position before the PV open. On any of these AC sleds I burp the throttle and never let the egts get above 1200, even though stock it runs at 1260, I stuck my stock 09 1000 the same way.

 

[skidooboy]

after the tear down, we found it wasnt a four corner. just a front and rear smear below the ring. cant figure out what did it. completely stock sled, good fresh gas. wash and plugs looked great even after the scuffs, the crowns and the head look perfect, even rich. no aluminum on plugs, no detonation on the crown or head. the dealer, tech, and i are scratching our heads.

gotta find the reason it did it rather than just throw parts at it and have it do it again. parts are in stock at the dealer, and we should be together by tomorrow night. i'll be breaking in the new top end thursday if all goes well.

wished i knew what fuel pressure it was running, and see if we could up it without a box. i dont want to install a adjustable pressure regulator and then have the dealer say that is what causes the next melt down. what do you do? ski

 

[Frostbite]

Ski, I was shocked to learn that dealers do not have fuel pressure gauges. I have asked two dealers locally and neither has the capability to measure fuel pressures even though it makes a huge difference on these sleds.

How was your oil delivery? Maybe your sticking oil pump stuck closed this time?

Hey, at least they are warrantying the damage and not trying to blame you. That in itself is a wonderful thing.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

There have been a few of these that did just that (like mine, with 57miles on brand new sled) Since they started doing the AC break in properly I haven't heard of any problems. Was yours broke in by the dealer and did they know what they where doing. I was 6 miles in on the trail when mine went and was actually riding with my dealer so there was no problem on warranty.

 

[skidooboy]

my break in was explained 100:1 premix first full tank, no full throttle pulls, vary throttle positions, no steady throttle riding. which i did to a tee. your explanation about the lean spot before the valves sounds like a possibility. ski

 

[WyoBoy1000]

my break in was explained 100:1 premix first full tank, no full throttle pulls, vary throttle positions, no steady throttle riding. which i did to a tee. your explanation about the lean spot before the valves sounds like a possibility. ski

That has nothing to do with the AC Break in, after you get all the air out of the system then You are supposed to put it on a stand and run it between 4-6000rpm until the temp light comes on and keep running it for 1-2 min. It is intended to over heat and heat sink the pistons with the jug. This is just off the top of my head, Contact MMsports for the actual break in procedure. or search for it.