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Short Cuts and Tricks.. Pro Chassis

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NapaMatt

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Hey Guys..

Well working on the Pro Chassis i have found some things that help out a lot.. Maybe you already know, but this is going out just to help others out that haven't got there hand dirty yet working on the Pro Chassis..


Taking Body Panels off are pretty easy. If you feel like your going to break it.. pull harder and with a quick snap, the panels go in and out with a little angle better.

Head work.. Take off the Thero. Housing off the head, Not off the hose, and Zip Tie to the upper frame support.. Kinda by the handle bars. up and out of your way. If taking head off.. Break loose the Knock Sensor Bolt. 13mm BEFORE.. Taking head bolts out.. ... Trying to hold a head and break a bolt loose, with out damaging head. Could mean DANGER!

Draining Coolant.. Really Easy with a suction gun.. to get the bulk out of the coolant tank, then Detach the Small hose on bottle. run that to a Drain pan .. Work nice if you have a 5/16 barb union and a foot of 5/16 line runs right out the exh. hole. .. Take a piece of 5/16 line connect to the coolant bottle, apply air Pressure with blow gun.. Waalla Coolant OUT!


Mid Season Cleaning or After season Cleaning..
Use Large Shop VAC.. with a 2 ft of 5/8 heater hose.. at the end of the hose.. i just used my hand to make the seal.. For use to get under the Engine.. I found 2 LBS of pine NEEDLES!! Fire Hazard!

Tips and Tricks...


Lets get a thread Going.. Guys..
 
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Reg2view

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The VES solenoid has a short vent hose dropping in front of the motor, just behind the primary. Some gooey junk comes out of that VES hose.

If you don't plug the VES solenoid lines, get about a 4' piece of gas line, got mine from napa, and replace the short vent hose, running down and along the round bulkhead brace and out of the bulkhead through the front mag-side motor mount access hole, fishing it back to the chaincase drain hole in the belly pan. Easiest when you pull the can, of course. Zip in place. No more mess under the motor, or crap by the primary.
 

NapaMatt

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Tip of the Day..[/B]

Look at your Recoil Housing..


From the Factory there was a Piece of Tape over the Hole going in to Stator/ Recoil Housing on the top in the pic you can see it..


They must have it figured out that after one season the Tape will be off.. and We will be buying parts!!

FYI..

RETAPE the Hole!! Edit.. Yes, Alum. Heat Tape Works mint, Blends in well too!


30 Sec Fix..

photo.php


side pic.jpg
 
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Rick!

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One of these fancy Snap-On wrenches and a 15mm 1/4" drive short socket work really well to remove the brake caliper when changing tracks and chain/sprockets.

To tighten the bottom sprocket bolt, re-install the barke rotor and one caliper bolt, hold brake on and tighten bolt. Or, forget if you gave it the extra oomph and take it all back apart again later.

To fill the chaincase, tape a 5/16" fuel hose into your funnel and pour away. About 10oz fills it up and spills out just a tad. (Fill to Spill)

snap on 20547.jpg
 
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Avi8tormd

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Tip of the Day..

Look at your Recoil Housing..


From the Factory there was a Piece of Tape over the Hole going in to Stator/ Recoil Housing on the top in the pic you can see it..


They must have it figured out that after one season the Tape will be off.. and We will be buying parts!!

FYI..

RETAPE the Hole!!


30 Sec Fix..


Aluminum metal tape works well. It will last all season.
 
A

aebsledder

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Jan 16, 2008
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Gallatin Valley
Hood and side panel pins?

Any better system out there? I know I am not contributing, but I am hoping if I bring it up enough a snowester smarter than me will figure something out.:face-icon-small-hap
 

NapaMatt

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Running Boards.. Holes filled with my .02!!!!

last year Some of ya know i was trying out a lot of heat tape on my running boards..

Well long term it worked well on the side that i did do it to..

so this year i am making it better


Adding my .02 Cents lol..

This makes it flush smooth..

Even though the heat tape did hold up all year.. this will forsure hold up

324404_2244239498567_1025501068_2642384_821349245_o.jpg 327503_2244238698547_1025501068_2642383_2006195284_o.jpg
 

NapaMatt

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Any better system out there? I know I am not contributing, but I am hoping if I bring it up enough a snowester smarter than me will figure something out.:face-icon-small-hap



Well you can add hood straps..


Are you having a problem with them coming loose?

only three times all year my hood pins came loose.. and with the rubber strap on there.. is not like the whole panel comes flying off or any thing.. once we stopped for a break is was i got looking and saw it came loose..

IDk.. about a new system..

i kinda like the little 1/4 turns..

I figured out u kinda got to be rough with them.. Slap them up a little bit then they work great he he
 

AndrettiDog

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I did my exhaust valves last year and they were a biotch. I had to pull the pipe and exhaust man. However, i can't remember which tools did the trick for me. I'll do it again this fall and post it up.

Grippers
I drill small holes in the grippers because they pool up with water when the snow melts in your garage. This leds to rust on the bolts.

Throttle block sticking
Both me and a friend had issues with the throttle block sticking in really cold weather. This is bad because your throttle hangs open. I sprayed some silicone lube in and around the block and this prevented the sticking.
 

NapaMatt

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Cleaning Exh. Valves..

Tools needed..
Rachet 3/8 drive
3/8 drive 12" Extension
10mm socket
10mm Wobble socket
13mm Rachet wrench.. For steering post bolts
needle nose pliers Long with a 90 deg bend work mint!
snips
zip ties..
New hose going to each valve... make sure u clean out the T-EE Fitting!!
Also Run the dump line out by the chain case ur going to need a new longer line..
Oven Cleaner

New Gaskets... Also i change out the bellows once a year..
Elbow Grease.!




heres a good thread on exh cleanin http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268203
 
Last edited:

NapaMatt

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I did my exhaust valves last year and they were a biotch. I had to pull the pipe and exhaust man. However, i can't remember which tools did the trick for me. I'll do it again this fall and post it up.

Grippers
I drill small holes in the grippers because they pool up with water when the snow melts in your garage. This leds to rust on the bolts.

Throttle block sticking
Both me and a friend had issues with the throttle block sticking in really cold weather. This is bad because your throttle hangs open. I sprayed some silicone lube in and around the block and this prevented the sticking.


Bugit..

I would like a pic of the hole drilled in ski..

Did u drill it in the lowest spot ?? So 3 or 4 total in each ski?

like a 3/16 drill bit or smaller

thanks
 

skibreeze

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Bugit..

I would like a pic of the hole drilled in ski..

Did u drill it in the lowest spot ?? So 3 or 4 total in each ski?

like a 3/16 drill bit or smaller

thanks

I have done this for years now. I use a 1/8" bit and just drill holes in every compartment that holds water, including the ones under the rubber.
 

NapaMatt

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Thanks Bud!..

ya i figured someone else did this also...

Thanks..

I was trying to figure a way to make the top of the ski smooth.. some how.. like a filler. so even snow wouldn't collect on the ski..

But i think that's a pipe dream! lol

I'll drill some holes!!
 

800poodragon

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I did my exhaust valves last year and they were a biotch. I had to pull the pipe and exhaust man. However, i can't remember which tools did the trick for me. I'll do it again this fall and post it up.

Grippers
I drill small holes in the grippers because they pool up with water when the snow melts in your garage. This leds to rust on the bolts.

Throttle block sticking
Both me and a friend had issues with the throttle block sticking in really cold weather. This is bad because your throttle hangs open. I sprayed some silicone lube in and around the block and this prevented the sticking.


The one exhaust valve is easy but if you pull the steering post bolts so you can move it aside a bit and remove all 4 bolts on the exhaust valve assembly it will come out. A bit snug... Easier than pulling the pipe and manifold.
 

d8grandpa

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with exhaust valves, if you take them apart on the engine rather than trying to remove them as a hole unit you don't have to remove anything else on the engine or steering post.
 

AndrettiDog

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The one exhaust valve is easy but if you pull the steering post bolts so you can move it aside a bit and remove all 4 bolts on the exhaust valve assembly it will come out. A bit snug... Easier than pulling the pipe and manifold.

That's right, I remember removing those two bolts on the steering arm brace now. Thanks.

I have done this for years now. I use a 1/8" bit and just drill holes in every compartment that holds water, including the ones under the rubber.

That's the just of it.
 

icerider600

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Wow lots of things to do to my new Pro since I have been a Doo guy for years!! Thanks alot for all these tips guys, Im sure glad there are people like all of you to help the Pro newbies out:becky:

Dallas
 
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