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RKT dual spring secondary set up

mrquick68

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Dec 20, 2004
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Kirkland, WA
i ran the compression plus torsion secondary spring last year for awhile. worked pretty good. i've got a the spring left over if someone wants to try it. PM me and we can figure out a fair price i'm sure.
 
D
Nov 28, 2007
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there was a lot of this and that in your post. what exactly did you do

Most of the performance gains in the torsion set up from RTK is really from the stronger end cap of the open ended helix. More spring rate will give you more back shift weather it is with a torsion spring or compression spring. The end cap will flex then be the week point in the system.

I like my back shift to just tickle the other roller. Then the up shift will not be to fast.

For the back country a 48/42 open ended helix and dalton billet end cap with goodwins dark blue/yellow secondary spring and a shift assist. Cut out the spider cup so the spring will not bind and drop in two friction shims in the primary as well. Clutch the weights to the power your making and the body weight of the rider. Full tipped weight adjustable's are sick in the DDrive sled. The 48/38 had to much back shift but would be great for in the ups and this same spring. The 48/38 and goodwin Blue/yellow spring was totaly sick and very fun to run. You could pick the skis at will but the back shift was to much. High torque rollers finish up this clutch set up and good for many many miles. I have been trying Jeff Listers weights and they are very nice. The up shift is very high if you do not have a big load on the track.

Cheers Don.
 
R

RKT

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Jul 19, 2001
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Preston, Idaho
www.2strokeheads.com
Most of the performance gains in the torsion set up from RTK is really from the stronger end cap of the open ended helix. More spring rate will give you more back shift weather it is with a torsion spring or compression spring. The end cap will flex then be the week point in the system.

Cheers Don.

WITH ALL DUE RESPECT, DON.. This is not the case..

The opened ended helixes, as you call them, do not put any pressure on the outside cap.. AT ALL.. The spring is mated against the PLASTIC (threaded) piece that is screwed into the HELIX, itself... The outer cap is only there as a precaution in case the plastic nut (that holds the spring) works its way out.. and to hold the bushing to guide the shaft...

There is NO pressure on this outer cap.. So, the idea that this cap is flexing due to spring load, can not be true due to the fact that the spring is not touching the outer cap..

See #5 in drawing attached..


As for my kit.. It is much more than a spring change.. We change contact angle with the rollers to the helix, we change initial side load pressure and we completely change the way the helix applies load..

AGAIN, no disrespect intended.. But obviously you have not seen nor ran my set up and if you had, you would see that it works 100% better due to its operation..

Kelsey

DRIVEN CLUTCH.jpg
 
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