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Primary clutch stuck and impossible to remove

S
Mar 30, 2022
20
0
1
Quebec Canada
Can anyone help me with the removal of my primary clutch on a 2013 Pro RMK 800 155. I've tried 2 different types of pullers, using the water method and then I tried filling it up with white lithium grease and no way this clutch want's to come off. I was thinking of trying a jaw puller and putting some heat to it. Any comments or suggestions would greatly be appreciated thanks
 

Betterview

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If you live in a location where it freezes outside or overnight, lay sled on side and fill hole with water, wrap teflon tape on a bolt and tighten it into clutch with impact wrench and let it freeze. Dry ice packed around clutch and PTO end of engine and wrapped with insulation can help this process also. Be sure clutch and engine are cold before starting this process.
 

Tewstroke

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Can anyone help me with the removal of my primary clutch on a 2013 Pro RMK 800 155. I've tried 2 different types of pullers, using the water method and then I tried filling it up with white lithium grease and no way this clutch want's to come off. I was thinking of trying a jaw puller and putting some heat to it. Any comments or suggestions would greatly be appreciated thanks

This will seem odd, but when I had a stuck clutch, an experienced fellow I know had called and asked asked Polaris what to do in a similar situation.

They were told to strike the tightened puller perpendicular to it's long axis( meaning, from the side) with a hammer.

I followed this instruction and struck it sideways/ perpendicular to the puller axis.
I struck it at several points with a hammer while keeping the puller snugged up and off popped the clutch.

Some may think it puts the crank at risk, but I've had no problems.
 
Last edited:
S
Mar 30, 2022
20
0
1
Quebec Canada
This will seem odd, but when I had a stuck clutch, an experienced fellow I know had called and asked asked Polaris what to do in a similar situation.

They were told to strike the tightened puller perpendicular to it's long axis( meaning, from the side) with a hammer.

I followed this instruction and struck it sideways/ perpendicular to the puller axis.
I struck it at several points with a hammer while keeping the puller snugged up and off popped the clutch.

Some may think it puts the crank at risk, but I've had no problems.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to give that a try as soon as the rain stops lol.
 
S
Mar 30, 2022
20
0
1
Quebec Canada
If you live in a location where it freezes outside or overnight, lay sled on side and fill hole with water, wrap teflon tape on a bolt and tighten it into clutch with impact wrench and let it freeze. Dry ice packed around clutch and PTO end of engine and wrapped with insulation can help this process also. Be sure clutch and engine are cold before starting this process.
When you say dry ice around the clutch and PTO side, where do you get your dry ice from. I'm a welder/pipefitter/millwright at a Pulp and Paper mill, I've seen machinist do this to bearings on a shaft and a few other things using a bottle of pure C,02 & wrap it up with a fire blanket. But I don't have access to any C,02 is there any other way of getting some dry ice?
 
S
Mar 30, 2022
20
0
1
Quebec Canada
If you live in a location where it freezes outside or overnight, lay sled on side and fill hole with water, wrap teflon tape on a bolt and tighten it into clutch with impact wrench and let it freeze. Dry ice packed around clutch and PTO end of engine and wrapped with insulation can help this process also. Be sure clutch and engine are cold before starting this process.
Thanks for your feedback. I'm going to try that if pounding on it sideways doesn't work
 

IDspud

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Dry Ice is sold at a lot of grocery stores.

I’d try the ice before the beating.
 
M
Oct 25, 2012
13
6
3
Can anyone help me with the removal of my primary clutch on a 2013 Pro RMK 800 155. I've tried 2 different types of pullers, using the water method and then I tried filling it up with white lithium grease and no way this clutch want's to come off. I was thinking of trying a jaw puller and putting some heat to it. Any comments or suggestions would greatly be appreciated thanks
Are you using a puller that pushes on the crank while using the grease/water method?
 
A
Nov 26, 2007
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Elko, NV.
I've removed dozens of ornery clutches with the grease method. One thing to watch is make sure you do not have any air pockets in the grease and make sure you put a couple wraps of electrical tape on the puller threads or the grease will ooze out through the threads and pressure will be lost.
 

ditch1000

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Even motor oil works good.. It won’t t build pressure without plumbers tape on the puller threads.. Usually the puller will barely get tight and will pop the clutch right off..
 

Perk

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Fill the hole with whatever you want (anything works, but oil and grease require more cleanup than water). Put plumbers tape on the threads of the clutch puller as mentioned. Torgue the clutch puller in good and tight, then walk away - leave it for 12 hours (use this time wisely, have a beer and Traeger a brisket or some ribs and have a nice dinner). Check on it the next day - if it hasn't popped, add some more tension on the puller and leave it again for another 12. Keep doing this for a day or so and it will give. If a lot of oil/water leaks out, you may have to add more between intervals. Constant tension and temp changes from day to night/night to day will win the battle.
BTW - I was a certified Polaris Tech. back in the 80's and the procedure for removing a stuck primary was to beat on the end of the puller with a hammer. I did it on plenty of sleds and it worked, no idea what the long term effects were. I would not do it to my sled.
 

Perk

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Are you using a puller that pushes on the crank while using the grease/water method?
FYI - I have done it both ways, had one stuck so bad I bent the tip and had to cut it off. Used the hydro method with that puller and it worked fine without the tip pushing off the end of the crank.
 

Perk

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This will seem odd, but when I had a stuck clutch, an experienced fellow I know had called and asked asked Polaris what to do in a similar situation.

They were told to strike the tightened puller perpendicular to it's long axis( meaning, from the side) with a hammer.

I followed this instruction and struck it sideways/ perpendicular to the puller axis.
I struck it at several points with a hammer while keeping the puller snugged up and off popped the clutch.

Some may think it puts the crank at risk, but I've had no problems.
This is a little confusing - it could lead someone to think that you should hit "sideways" - just wanted to mention it because I don't think that is a good idea. The old "hammer" procedure that I am familiar with specifies to strike the end of the puller - straight in line with the crank. But again, I don't recommend that.
 

retiredpop

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This is a little confusing - it could lead someone to think that you should hit "sideways" - just wanted to mention it because I don't think that is a good idea. The old "hammer" procedure that I am familiar with specifies to strike the end of the puller - straight in line with the crank. But again, I don't recommend that.
I've done both ways. Recently I worked on a clutch that wouldn't come off with a tap on the end but a few light taps sideways did the trick. I moved my way around by about 90 degrees each hit.
 

BeartoothBaron

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Some people say never to do anything but tighten the puller, and that's the safest approach. Maybe it doesn't take much to hurt something; it's hard to tell because the damage might take a long time to cause a failure. My thought is if you tap the end of the puller like you're trying to snap it off (but obviously not hitting it that hard), and avoiding hitting the head of the puller - as if you were trying to drive it into the crank - you're loading the bearings in the direction they're designed to be loaded and aren't likely to hurt anything. Thinking of the puller like a nail, it'd be like trying to bend a nail sticking half-way out over, as opposed to driving it the rest of the way in. That said, for all I know, it might take wailing on it with a sledge hammer (somebody's probably done it...) to cause any damage. At some point, it's going to hurt something, but hard to say when.

Tightening it down and leaving it can work with a regular puller too. The thing is, you need temperature variation to cause expansion/contraction, so it might not do any good in a heated garage or shop. Same difference with the hydraulic method. If I'm not in a hurry, I'll usually crank down the puller, then leave it if it doesn't pop, coming back and cranking on it again until it does. A couple times I've tapped on the puller as described and that's helped it pop. I prefer to avoid that, just being better safe than sorry. It's probably never going to hurt anything if you're careful, but if you can get it off without tapping the puller, there's never any question.
 

Teth-Air

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One thing I learned is leave the belt on so if it lets go it will not let the clutch fly off and take your head off. It was very close for my son. The sled was on its side and the clutch almost hit the ceiling. I know if you are warming the shaft with a torch it is difficult leaving the belt on but worth it.
 

Reg2view

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One thing I learned is leave the belt on so if it lets go it will not let the clutch fly off and take your head off. It was very close for my son. The sled was on its side and the clutch almost hit the ceiling. I know if you are warming the shaft with a torch it is difficult leaving the belt on but worth it.
Good advice people can overlook, easy way to avoid spraining a wrist, or worst, too. Using an old belt with the secondary open abit to provide some slack when heating works, too.
 

go high fast

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I have a battery powered impact wrench and give it a few gentle 1 second bursts and they pop right off. Also easier on the crank than the hammer.
 

ultimax

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I have had good luck with the puller tightened up with the impact. Then pour boiling hot water onto the portion of the crankshaft between the back-side of the clutch and engine case. Usually about 2-3 gallons does the trick. I like this better than a torch for heating.
 
When you say dry ice around the clutch and PTO side, where do you get your dry ice from. I'm a welder/pipefitter/millwright at a Pulp and Paper mill, I've seen machinist do this to bearings on a shaft and a few other things using a bottle of pure C,02 & wrap it up with a fire blanket. But I don't have access to any C,02 is there any other way of getting some dry ice?
Typically Walmart or Costco will sell dry ice. Most of your larger grocery stores will have it.
 
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