No Good… Need advice on broken chain case

[gettinlostinthewoods]

Hello friends! I’m off to a good start this season and somehow managed to break my chain case on an axys 850. I must have came down on a rock or something. Photos are attached. I broke the cover and bent the housing. It’s not quite making contact with the chain, but it is dang close. I also bent and broke the rear housing and pushed the lower portion just slightly into the track.( see photos)…..It’s not making contact with the track, but it is close. I have no idea how i did this and didn’t break anything else. I also have no idea when it happened…

Anyways, here is where it gets interesting. If you were in my situation, which would you do:
option 1: would you try and bend everything somewhat straight and then throw in a tki conversion kit
option 2: buy all the stock replacement parts (housing and cover)

Looks like the tki kit is about $800 usd. I can probably bend and dremel the rear housing to get it lined up. If not, i will have to replace the rear housing as well.

To replace cover and housing is about $500 unless I can find a take off or spare part.

Any thoughts would be appreciated! Iv been looking at the Tki kit since buying the sled, but have read mixed things about performance.

 

[Pine Rob]

That’s a good smack sorry to hear.

If it was my rig I would go to the tki belt conversion kit. Worth the money, can gear it for your elevation and riding when you order it. Won’t be anymore labor than doing all the chaincase repair going to the belt drive. Belt drive is big difference to chaincase will be upgrading our 17 assault with chaincase to the tki kit this summer. (Spent way to much on sleds this year or I would do it now) order a spare belt with the kit to carry with you cheap insurance.

Also one less maintenance item and if a belt blows you can install a spare way easier then a blown chain (not that a chain replacement happens often or is that hard)

 

[gettinlostinthewoods]

That’s a good smack sorry to hear.

If it was my rig I would go to the tki belt conversion kit. Worth the money, can gear it for your elevation and riding when you order it. Won’t be anymore labor than doing all the chaincase repair going to the belt drive. Belt drive is big difference to chaincase will be upgrading our 17 assault with chaincase to the tki kit this summer. (Spent way to much on sleds this year or I would do it now) order a spare belt with the kit to carry with you cheap insurance.

Also one less maintenance item and if a belt blows you can install a spare way easier then a blown chain (not that a chain replacement happens often or is that hard)

I appreciate the input! that’s definitely the way i’m leaning. Plus not having to deal with oil is a huge plus.

Ya, heck of a good smack and what’s strange is I don’t remember hitting anything. I almost wondering if it was done by the dealer with a forklift when it was in for service last week…

 

[Lobster Carl]

I would make sure your driveshaft goes in easy and lines up on your clutch side. And the alignment is good.I know the chain case is stronger the the QD plate. But my friend rode out this half broke driveshaft and it warped the QD backer plate. They are pretty easy to change.

 

[chevy_man]

Tki.

Cheap belts, will take turbo power, and has a tensioner unlike the qd system it's super easy to change the belt if you need to.

So far I haven't been able to wear out a belt.

 

[gettinlostinthewoods]

I would make sure your driveshaft goes in easy and lines up on your clutch side. And the alignment is good.I know the chain case is stronger the the QD plate. But my friend rode out this half broke driveshaft and it warped the QD backer plate. They are pretty easy to change.

Thanks for the response and that’s a really good idea. As far as checking the alignment , is there any special tools that you use or is it just simply pulling both driveshaft and the jackshaft to make sure they are not bound and move freely?

 

[Lobster Carl]

Thanks for the response and that’s a really good idea. As far as checking the alignment , is there any special tools that you use or is it just simply pulling both driveshaft and the jackshaft to make sure they are not bound and move freely?

Just make sure it goes in easy. The bolts should all line up on the clutch side with no pressure on the shaft.
My friend wanted to keep riding so we threw another driveshaft in and one of us had to use our feet to push it in so the bolts would go in. Not the best idea. I'm suprised it didn't explode and I wouldn't recommend it. The sled is fixed right now.

 

[gettinlostinthewoods]

Just make sure it goes in easy. The bolts should all line up on the clutch side with no pressure on the shaft.
My friend wanted to keep riding so we threw another driveshaft in and one of us had to use our feet to push it in so the bolts would go in. Not the best idea. I'm suprised it didn't explode and I wouldn't recommend it. The sled is fixed right now.

thanks for the info. I pulled the drive shaft and inspected it. it appears be straight and the bolts line up fairly easily and the shaft appears to be spinning without any issue. There is an occasional squeal every third or so revolution, but it could just be the rubber from the track.

I pulled all the bolts off the chain case and now only have the top two rivits and the glue left. Once I can confirm that glue is available at the dealer I will drill out those rivits and start heating that glue off.

Does anyone by chance have any experience with applying the polaris structural adhesive? It looks like a 4:1 applicator and then just a thin bead around the edge of the chain case.

thanks for all the help!

 

[chevy_man]

thanks for the info. I pulled the drive shaft and inspected it. it appears be straight and the bolts line up fairly easily and the shaft appears to be spinning without any issue. There is an occasional squeal every third or so revolution, but it could just be the rubber from the track.

I pulled all the bolts off the chain case and now only have the top two rivits and the glue left. Once I can confirm that glue is available at the dealer I will drill out those rivits and start heating that glue off.

Does anyone by chance have any experience with applying the polaris structural adhesive? It looks like a 4:1 applicator and then just a thin bead around the edge of the chain case.

thanks for all the help!

All this over a chain case and you're going to go back to one?

I'm not mad, just disappointed. All that extra rotating mass and oil changes....

 

[gettinlostinthewoods]

All this over a chain case and you're going to go back to one?

I'm not mad, just disappointed. All that extra rotating mass and oil changes....

lol no, i’m going to the tki kit,but the chain case that it rides in is not salvageable. Those cast parts done like to be bent straight.

I have to reduce that weight and and rotating mass….

 

[HECKS]

Belt drive is not a big difference boys. Just more $$$$, as the marketing has worked. If you never looked under a hood, and rode a sled with and without....it's a pepsi challenge. Rotating mass pffff, how about putting the fork down for awhile, that will help too lol. You still have a 50 lbs+ track to spin, full of traction aids. If the OP had a belt drive, and took this hit, it would have more damage than what it is.

 

[chevy_man]

lol no, i’m going to the tki kit,but the chain case that it rides in is not salvageable. Those cast parts done like to be bent straight.

I have to reduce that weight and and rotating mass….

My bad. Sounded like you were planning to glue a new one on.

 

[chevy_man]

Belt drive is not a big difference boys. Just more $$$$, as the marketing has worked. If you never looked under a hood, and rode a sled with and without....it's a pepsi challenge. Rotating mass pffff, how about putting the fork down for awhile, that will help too lol. You still have a 50 lbs+ track to spin, full of traction aids. If the OP had a belt drive, and took this hit, it would have more damage than what it is.

I have rode both. It does help.

It's also a lot easier to fix a belt than a chain in the middle of the woods. Tki belts are way easier than the stock qd, as they run a belt tensioner and you can back-bend the belt without trashing it so they're easy to store.


So far only one I've seen break a belt was when my buddy stabbed his track. It peeled some cogs off the belt and then pulled it apart. He's running a boondocker and was running about 50mph track speed when he did it though. Blew a bunch of rods out of the track before the belt gave up.

 

[gettinlostinthewoods]

My bad. Sounded like you were planning to glue a new one on.

All good, I have to glue a new case on because the rear housing can't be salvaged.

 

[gettinlostinthewoods]

Out of curiosity, what’s everyone’s take on preventively doing new bearings while I have everything torn apart? The bearings appear to be in decent shape. Sled has 900 miles on it and is a 19.

 

[kanedog]

Out of curiosity, what’s everyone’s take on preventively doing new bearings while I have everything torn apart? The bearings appear to be in decent shape. Sled has 900 miles on it and is a 19.

It is a good idea.

 

[chevy_man]

Out of curiosity, what’s everyone’s take on preventively doing new bearings while I have everything torn apart? The bearings appear to be in decent shape. Sled has 900 miles on it and is a 19.

Cheap and easy now. Have to pull the driveshaft to get to it again so I'd prolong that an extra 900 miles.

 

[HECKS]

I have had both belt and chain on NA and on Turbo setups. I stay with the chains as I have always liked the sturdier setup with the splined drive shaft and chain.
I have been around a lot of broken belts, and have seen multiple guys go through a few belts a season, mind you these were on polaris drives w/ no tensioner, and little to no brake in. The belts are strong if broke in properly, and a tensioned setup works best, as I snapped a drive shaft off on the turbo and belt was fine. Our wicked CDN pricing of $ 200.00+ for drive belts gets pricy if your ball'n on a budget lol.
Each to their own, but if switching from chain to belt just for the sake of rotating mass.....I would rather put the $$$$ somewhere else in the sled.

Regarding bearings, remove the seals with o-ring pick, clean out the old grease, install new grease, give her a spinny, wipe off excess and push the seal back in.
Smart to check all rear skid boogies, factory greasing is minimal, and these are directly in the elements.

 

[gettinlostinthewoods]

I have had both belt and chain on NA and on Turbo setups. I stay with the chains as I have always liked the sturdier setup with the splined drive shaft and chain.
I have been around a lot of broken belts, and have seen multiple guys go through a few belts a season, mind you these were on polaris drives w/ no tensioner, and little to no brake in. The belts are strong if broke in properly, and a tensioned setup works best, as I snapped a drive shaft off on the turbo and belt was fine. Our wicked CDN pricing of $ 200.00+ for drive belts gets pricy if your ball'n on a budget lol.
Each to their own, but if switching from chain to belt just for the sake of rotating mass.....I would rather put the $$$$ somewhere else in the sled.

Regarding bearings, remove the seals with o-ring pick, clean out the old grease, install new grease, give her a spinny, wipe off excess and push the seal back in.
Smart to check all rear skid boogies, factory greasing is minimal, and these are directly in the elements.

Thanks for the input! All parts are on order and should be here by Saturday. I got a copy of the shop manual and reviewed everything, but have run into a small dilemma.. The shop manual calls for pulling the bulkhead floor plate for this repair, which requires pulling the motor. Im not quite sure why, as in looking at the area and the parts there is only two rivets that will need to be popped out during the removal of the current chain case and maybe some glue. Does anyone have any feedback or thoughts on the bulkhead floor plate?

 

[chevy_man]

I have had both belt and chain on NA and on Turbo setups. I stay with the chains as I have always liked the sturdier setup with the splined drive shaft and chain.
I have been around a lot of broken belts, and have seen multiple guys go through a few belts a season, mind you these were on polaris drives w/ no tensioner, and little to no brake in. The belts are strong if broke in properly, and a tensioned setup works best, as I snapped a drive shaft off on the turbo and belt was fine. Our wicked CDN pricing of $ 200.00+ for drive belts gets pricy if your ball'n on a budget lol.
Each to their own, but if switching from chain to belt just for the sake of rotating mass.....I would rather put the $$$$ somewhere else in the sled.

Regarding bearings, remove the seals with o-ring pick, clean out the old grease, install new grease, give her a spinny, wipe off excess and push the seal back in.
Smart to check all rear skid boogies, factory greasing is minimal, and these are directly in the elements.

I did a tki because it was barely more expensive than replacing the qd pulley and belt that broke. Nice thing is the tki belt is a Gates that runs $85. Haven't ever needed the spare.