Only been out on the sled two times so far this year, but it's a hoot! Here are some things I've noticed so far.
The good:
I'm happy to report the light feeling on the shop floor translated to the snow. Light steering and quick handling. I've been pleasantly surprised that the heavier front end feel I was expecting with the supercharger has not shown its face. I don't know if it's the Kmod skid, the spindle setup, or both. I just know it's good. Definitely need some more time to adjust to how fast the sled comes around. Several times I didn't get to the other side quick enough or pulled it around too hard and dumped me and the sled on our side. Also washed the back end around on a couple hillsides. The fact that I'm still rusty this season isn't helping either!
A few times I found the front end lifting more than I wanted. Then I remembered... I have a coupling skid! Quick change on the coupler block and much more manageable. Setting 1 for trails and low angle terrain, setting 2 for general boondocking, and setting 3 for steeper lines seemed to be the ticket. Just like what I run in my other twin rail Kmod. Ended up on position 2 on the QS clicker on the rear shock to be able to handle G-outs and creek crossings when boondocking. QS set to 1 all the way around for the trail ride in and out with small to medium sized bumps. Skid ride on the trail is good so far.
The power is really strong right off the bottom and excellent in the midrange. Not quite as much as I was expecting on the top end, but still plenty. The ability to jump creeks and hop obstacles on this thing is insane! Bank gaps that would have been tough on my 900BB were just a thumb squeeze away on this. Also did a double log hop at the top of a hill that was out of my normal comfort zone. The extra boost lift coming into it made it possible. Also popped itself out of a few holes where I thought it was stuck for sure.
Clutching was spot on for me. Very smooth and spinning 8400rpm which is at the top of where it should be (8250-8400).
Overall little snow and ice buildup on the sled. I thought there would be some in the front bumper, but it did well in that regard. Also handled a small tree hit when I let the sled go on it's own.
Working on this sled is really easy with how quick the hood and panels come off.
Muff pot barely fits with the way the recoil is spaced out, but it fits!
Not quite as hard on fuel as I thought it was going to be... maybe? Or maybe not as noticeable with the bigger tank. I think I can leave the spare jug at the truck though for most of our rides.
Sled sounds really good when it's on the gas going through the trees! Buddy took a short video of me climbing through the trees so I got to see what it sounds like.
What could be improved:
The throttle pull feels stiff like a carb sled. I'm not sure what is added when the supercharger is installed to cause this, but my buddy's supercharged sled is the same way.
The accessory seat vinyl is slick, and I did hit a foot on it once trying to jump across through the middle of it. I'll probably live with it this season since I don't sit a lot, but before next year I'll probably trim it down 1" to 1-1/2" and have it reupholstered.
Powdercoat on the handlebar riser clamp surfaces is not good. Bars rotated on me even after tightening the bolts some more. Going to have to file it off before next trip.
Handlebar warmer codes. Didn't realize this was such an issue with Ctec Cats. Hit reverse and back forward has been working to clear them. The adjustable heater levels are nice when they work.
Snow and ice builds up in the footwells. This isn't an issue on my other sled with full tube boards where that area is cut out more in the bottom.
Front bumper could have better grab points.
Front shocks are a little harsh. I'm going to try to get some Evol chambers installed so I can get the pressures dialed in for a bit more initial comfort.
It runs warm down the trail. Even with the scratchers down and ducking off to the edges once in a while the temp light flashed quite a few times. The Kmod scratchers aren't the greatest either and one snapped off in the trailer on the way home when it was clipped on the rail. Kevin at Kmod actually recommends running ski scratchers instead of the rail ones he sends with the kit. Can't do that with the Powder Pro skis so I'm going to try retrofitting a stock set of Alpha scratchers somehow.
Riding down a rough trail at the end of the day with instant boost sucks. Forget the slow ruh, ruh, ruh, ruh, ruh through the woops because it's a killer. Pretty much have to commit to holding a constant throttle and blitzing everything.
Hardweld runners on skis aren't for me. I'll be going back to carbides.
Tried to throw a fresh belt on and discovered the threaded holes in the outer secondary sheave were in tough shape. One was stripped and the other was almost stripped. Going Heli-coil both of them. You may notice that I said "both of them." The secondary on this sled has the normal belt tool hole and the hole for the old deflection adjuster. So... it's an older secondary that must have been sent in to be reworked and lightened.
Found a loose front shock bolt so I'll be keeping an eye on the bolts with aluminum nuts. The little idler wheels (not anti-stab ones) toward the front of the skid were also loose on the rails. I've heard the stock alpha skid can be hard on these as well.
Snapped the limiter strap in the skid. Repost from Kmod thread:
Was where it was set when I got the sled. I like the handling as it's setup so I probably won't change it. Overall the strap was in tough shape end to end, but it snapped right where it goes under the washer on the lower attachment point. Washer has a bit of a sharp edge so I'm not too surprised it broke there. Going to radius that washer and sandwich an extra piece from the old limiter there as a sacrificial item going forward. Ordered a new one from Kevin yesterday and a spare to have on hand. We field fixed it but broke again within 1/2 mile.
FYI when the limiter breaks it both loosens the track and pushes it away from the drivers. You'd think the skid pushing out on the track would tighten it more, but it doesn't. Lets the track ratchet pretty easy and ends the riding day.
We encountered the shrader valve issue on a friend's skinny he just installed. If you bottom out the rear shock, the main air chamber cap gets down close to the inside of the track. Then if something pushes the track up at the same time the drive nubs can hit the cap and try to rip it off along with the valve. Sounds like the fix for now is to swap that cap with the one that is on the bottom of the nitrogen reservoir. It's more rounded and lower profile so less chance of it getting ripped off.
Overall pleased with the sled! Just needs a few tweaks here and there to make it perfect.
