D
why does everything cost 100 or more in this sport?? Maybe it's worth it, but dang that sure seems steep!
Interesting new product.
- Thread starter DonoBBD
- Start date
Yep. Only in this sport would we spend $100 for a bolt & a collar, about $3 worth of parts.
Cool idea, I'm glad to pay for innovation but if it's not at a reasonable price for what it is, it'll get knocked off for cheaper very quickly.
If I'm off on the value of this type of product for some reason, I'm glad to shove my foot in my mouth, it just seems a very simple product for the $$.
crazy world..sooo pricy..oh well...when we are thinking we are getting something for free (sex from the wife) we are actually paying top dollar...maybe when we are paying top dollar for this product we are getting it for free...lol...
P
according to an earlier statement, this part would pay for itself after the second time you would normally be buying a belt.... but still, expensive for what it is.
That's way cool!!!
in reality the cost of the item only reflects the materials to make it, by a small percentage. your have the idea, the design, manufacturing, testing, the marketing to bring it to the masses, packaging, advertizing, shipping, ect....
no different than the billions we spend on clutch kits to "make our sled faster". pay 2-400 for a clutch kit with maybe 50.00 worth of raw materials. the raw material didnt make itself. and the kit manufacturers time for testing isnt free. and we buy them at a rate they cant keep on the shelves. we buy cans for our sleds for 2-300 that do nothing more than drop weight, make more noise, and in most cases lose horsepower. graphic kits for 2-500 to look different from the previous year.
plus the mfg has a limited market in sleds maybe atv/utv's. if they could sell millions on tv to EVERYONE. the cost would be lower. basic supply/demand theory. could you have figured this out by yourself? maybe. can you source everything in the kit? probably. but by the time you source it, build it, install and test to see if what you did is right. YOU COULD HAVE BOUGHT THIS FOR ALITTLE OVER 100.00, and not wasted your time trying to save a few pennies.
and when it comes down to it. that is what you are paying for. an idea that you couldnt come up with.
to put it in perspective... this thing costs about 3 tanks of gas in your sled. in theory, it may increase belt life, it may increase clutch life, give you better over all performance out of your sled for a longer period of time. worth it? you decide.
i'm getting one. ski
no different than the billions we spend on clutch kits to "make our sled faster". pay 2-400 for a clutch kit with maybe 50.00 worth of raw materials. the raw material didnt make itself. and the kit manufacturers time for testing isnt free. and we buy them at a rate they cant keep on the shelves. we buy cans for our sleds for 2-300 that do nothing more than drop weight, make more noise, and in most cases lose horsepower. graphic kits for 2-500 to look different from the previous year.
plus the mfg has a limited market in sleds maybe atv/utv's. if they could sell millions on tv to EVERYONE. the cost would be lower. basic supply/demand theory. could you have figured this out by yourself? maybe. can you source everything in the kit? probably. but by the time you source it, build it, install and test to see if what you did is right. YOU COULD HAVE BOUGHT THIS FOR ALITTLE OVER 100.00, and not wasted your time trying to save a few pennies.
and when it comes down to it. that is what you are paying for. an idea that you couldnt come up with.
to put it in perspective... this thing costs about 3 tanks of gas in your sled. in theory, it may increase belt life, it may increase clutch life, give you better over all performance out of your sled for a longer period of time. worth it? you decide.
i'm getting one. ski
D
is there anyone that has actually USED this product, like have seen the results because of this BOLT? 120 for an untested product is BS!
well to some extent i agree,,,but on the other hand i have used thundershift products in the past and have found them to be good products...the one good reason that i will likely order this product is because it is from thundershift products
D
I find if you start to get to much tip weight you will see groves down low in the primary from the cords in the belt. You will have the RPM's peek then drop in a pull.
Should be able to use the MTX weights with out shimming. IT will change your roller to weight to get the MTX in. I have been testing something like the MTX with a stock 05 primary for two years now. I had to put in .090 on the big end and trip .055 off the small end of the spider shim.
You can breath new life into old belts with this product and it is worth that $180 alone. These cat primarys are all pushing .125" belt to sheave with a broke in belt. The belt angles are different than the clutches angles as they break in the belt to sheave gets huge!
If you push the motor mounts in deeper so the motor moves the clutch out you can shim your secondary to keep your off set in good shape to run that belt real thin. We have been moving the motor's .125" out or cutting the back of the secondary. It is easier to move the motor now. With this new product it helps keeping the fixed secondary sled in peek performance.
Cheers Don.
How long is the warranty on the ABC Kit? I really like the principle but I am questioning the robustness of the product from the pictures that I have seen so far. I am afriad that the aluminum thumb nut with the set screw is going to fail. I hope not because I really want to order it, but without a decent warranty I am going to let someone else be the R&D team
Rob
Rob
With the sheave pressed in a bit the weights will not be in contact with the rollers. Wont that let both the rollers and weights rattle at idle?
So it seems to me, that will cause problems with premature roller failure.
Also, is the ABC bolt a machined bold? I worry about snapping the bold as I'm on and off the throttle so much.
So it seems to me, that will cause problems with premature roller failure.
Also, is the ABC bolt a machined bold? I worry about snapping the bold as I'm on and off the throttle so much.
D
All pre 2005 cat primary's had .060 or more roller to weight clearance stock.
This roller clearance went away in 05 when cat tucked there weights stock. I have seen more problems with the weight on the roller than not.
Cheers Don.
got mine today. and let me tell you, this isnt just a new "bolt". the bushing and adjuster is amazingly simple. the knurled adjuster may look flimsy in pics, IT ISN'T.
the new clutch bolt has a machined interior area for internal clearance. could guys make this "at home"? sure. but, it isnt as easy as just buying a new longer clutch bolt.
if any of you ever saw the maxximum performance or mountain performance secondary belt adjuster on the yamaha secondaries... this adjuster is VERY SIMILAR in design, to give you an idea how it works.
it is going to be very easy to adjust belt clearance. ski
the new clutch bolt has a machined interior area for internal clearance. could guys make this "at home"? sure. but, it isnt as easy as just buying a new longer clutch bolt.
if any of you ever saw the maxximum performance or mountain performance secondary belt adjuster on the yamaha secondaries... this adjuster is VERY SIMILAR in design, to give you an idea how it works.
it is going to be very easy to adjust belt clearance. ski
question for dono, i'll start with the quotes....
Originally Posted by skidooboyedk
So, by using this one would not have to shim the spiders for belt to sheeve clearance for belt wear. but another thing i just thought of, someone correct me if i am wrong but.... now you wont have to send your clutch to slp for shimming to use their MTX weights????? just run this and set the sheeve clearance and deflection, and you are good to go??? ski
Should be able to use the MTX weights with out shimming. IT will change your roller to weight to get the MTX in. I have been testing something like the MTX with a stock 05 primary for two years now. I had to put in .090 on the big end and trip .055 off the small end of the spider shim.
*****************************************************************
what did you mean by this statement???
IT will change your roller to weight to get the MTX in.
thanks in advance, ski
Originally Posted by skidooboyedk
So, by using this one would not have to shim the spiders for belt to sheeve clearance for belt wear. but another thing i just thought of, someone correct me if i am wrong but.... now you wont have to send your clutch to slp for shimming to use their MTX weights????? just run this and set the sheeve clearance and deflection, and you are good to go??? ski
Should be able to use the MTX weights with out shimming. IT will change your roller to weight to get the MTX in. I have been testing something like the MTX with a stock 05 primary for two years now. I had to put in .090 on the big end and trip .055 off the small end of the spider shim.
*****************************************************************
what did you mean by this statement???
IT will change your roller to weight to get the MTX in.
thanks in advance, ski
Glad to hear since I ordered one yesterday. Should be here Wednesday will report my feelings on it.
Thanks
Rob
N
Will this part not change the balance of the engine in a bad way ? You are adding more weight to the of the crank shaft
9
The stock bolt is set much deeper and torqued to spec within the Primary. When using this are you still torquing this new bolt? I'm assuming the knurled wheel is threaded and pushes on the sheath housing.. Seems like the contact points between the stock bolt and this product are vastly different.
D
Ski, as you start into your shift the sheave moves in on the belt. When you start this with this product at rest you gain roller to weight clearance as well as tighten up belt to sheave at rest.
Eg. We were grinding the stock weights to get .050 roller to weight with just about all 05 up primary's. This was to give more tip weight for most combo's. Moving the mass center line of the weight closer to the tip. This would put more leverage on the roller all the way through the shift and gain more up shift. Flat spotting the sheaves deep in the small end of the primary would then let the sheaves close more on the top end. Then to get a nice smooth grab on the belt when stuck a .020 belt to sheave is as smooth as it gets with imperfections in new belt not adding extra heat.
So this product will let you close the belt to sheave with out moving the spider. When closing up the belt to sheave we would cut the small end of the spider shim moving the spider and sheave into the belt. With this bolt you keep the spider in place but, move the weight in with the sheave. This then opens up the roller to weight proportionate to how much you closed the belt to sheave.
.070 belt to sheave .005 roller to weight stock. Adjust belt to sheave with this bolt system to .020 you move the sheave/weights in .050 and add the .050 to the .005 roller to weight giving a .055 roller to weight. NOW just going off the top of my head here the MTX weights needed a .060 big end spider shim added. Not to mention 100% of the 1000 and turbo sleds needed this shim added to the stock new three post primary's. (you can check this if you have groves down low on primary sheaves) This shim would add more tip weight to the leverage on the roller pinching the belt more down low stopping massive belt slip low in primary.
What I am getting at is this is a great tuning tool for sure as long as it lasts, and stays in place with out your adjustment moving.
Cheers Don.
M
I got my adjuster in the mail the other day and had to install it. Was really easy to install. I noticed before i installed it my engagemnent was 4100 after i installed it was 3700. So a drop of 400, could somone explain to me why this would lower my engagemnt. It dont really matter to me i can tweek that up with my glid washers, just curious
Thanks
Thanks
Did you check your belt to sheave clearance? Where it is now adjustable it may be too tight.
P.S. We have these in stock now for the M7, M8, and M1000.
P.S. We have these in stock now for the M7, M8, and M1000.
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