This is NOT a Polaris sanctioned setup, do any of these steps at your own risk. Lateral stability may be compromised.
Update: Short brief, I have gone all out on both lug and suspension/skid lift/track driver change on a Lite GT. I had picked up a "parts" sled that while badly abused, turned out to be a runner. The left steely ski was a pretzel, the left rear skid attach bracket sheared/broken, the skid torque axles frozen in the tubes, the fan case/starter assy in a box, the hood a wreck. But fixable. And I learned a lot about the sled in the process.
I built a left rear skid attach bracket from a piece of 4" X 10" .080" chromolly steel, duplicating the hole patterns for both the tunnel attach holes as well as the skid. In addition, I added three holes below the stock position in a straight line. While I had the skid out I drilled the lowest holes out for the forward tunnel skid attach points to match the rears. The vertical spacing is 3/4 inch between holes. While I was at it I pulled the drive axle/9 tooth stock driver and pressed on 7 tooth drivers for the 1 1/2 inch paddle track I had in 136 inch X 15 X 2.52 pitch. When I assembled the skid/lift setup I left the existing attach brackets in place (what was left of the left rear one) and added the 4 X 10 plate to the inside and used longer 1/4 X 20 bolts for the tunnel. The .080 build up is tolerated well and the old brackets give some lateral stiffness to the extensions. There is an angle bracket spot welded to the vertical plate in the original setup, it bolts to the floor board for vertical shear strength and probably adds some lateral stiffness. It's hard to fabricate a duplicate as it has about a 7 degree offset angle to it to work with the 90 degree verticality of the tunnel attach pattern and the up angle of the floor boards. I left the angle brackets spot welded and carefully drilled a pair of 3/16 holes close to the spot welds and put steel pop rivets for additional strength. The whole skid setup bolted right up and the floorboard clearance increase is dramatic!
The results: The extra paddle is wonderful, combined with the extra lift the sled is far more tolerant of deeper snow and the "overflow" we encounter on the lakes here in Alaska. The extra lift allows the torsion springs to be backed down from max and makes for a much nicer ride. Still not modern rider forward quality but much nicer. The gear down achieved with the 7 tooth driver is dramatic to say the very least. It allows for much finer throttle control for starters, this makes crawling through sketchy places much tamer. The acceleration is very dramatic, the skis can come off the snow. This sled type always was good at towing cargo tubs, it's even better now. Of course there is no free lunch. Top speed is knocked down and the speedo is now nearly worthless due to two factors. First, the factory speedo setup is not very accurate on my sleds. They GPS out much slower than they read, 12% or more. 50 indicated is really 45, etc. With the 7 tooth driver that error is amplfied. While the sled now says it will do 70 (!) the GPS says 45!!! I believe the GPS.
A further note: I've put plastic skis on my machines for obvious reasons and they are a game changer in their own right. But be cautious when doing so as some of the modern plastic skis have a very, very pronounced keel to them and a stock Indy Lite GT has an issue with them. The sled wants to go straight on hard pack and it takes a LOT of steering effort to get the skis to turn. So far I've not investigated this very well, just put the steelys back on the affected, all stock sled and will regroup. The skis in question are a Yamaha variety for what it is worth. I have seen some after market comments that this can happen to even modern sleds.
Bottom line: The sled with this setup is my go to for cabin runs, especially towing a load of fuel or supplies as it totally blows the stock Lite GT sleds out of the water and has a leg up on the Lite GT machines with an 1 1/4 track set up.
This is NOT a Polaris sanctioned setup, do any of these steps at your own risk. Lateral stability may be compromised.