http://www.ddracing.com/DD-Powersports-LLC-2012-Probreather-detail.htm?productId=-320927
link to probreather from D and D
link to probreather from D and D
How to drop weight on the ProClimb?
- Thread starter WaBackcountry
- Start date
Having good luck with my diamond s hood and Hps can. About 27 lbs lost and no ill effects in bogging or power that I can tell.
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Boostfreak,
How does headlight/gauge mount on diamond s hood? Is it solid? Have u rolled the sled over? Does pipe ever touch hood?
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How does headlight/gauge mount on diamond s hood? Is it solid? Have u rolled the sled over? Does pipe ever touch hood?
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There are tabs on the hood to mount the gauge/ windshield. U just have to drill the holes. And yes it us very solid. Sled has rolled once and no issues. Have not had any pipe contact that I know of. No burnt spots or anything anyway. Have about 250 miles with hood and going great.
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Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
There are tabs on the hood to mount the gauge/ windshield. U just have to drill the holes. And yes it us very solid. Sled has rolled once and no issues. Have not had any pipe contact that I know of. No burnt spots or anything anyway. Have about 250 miles with hood and going great!:beer:
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G
"HCR cooler it" was a bit of a tongue in cheek remark. I think it would be expensive and I know it would be time consuming.
That said, i believe there is at least a 10 pound RTR weight savings and in actual use much more. There is close to zero snow build up on the running boards and rear tunnel in any snow conditions or temps or speeds. I don't run trails too much but some rides I do up to 30 miles of snowcross to get there and back. I removed my scratchers 2 months ago and stopped watching the temp gauge (except to warm up) one month ago.
Hottest I've ever seen in use is 146 on the gauge (full throttle hard pack ride in) and just a jump off the side into fresh brought it back to 136 ish where it stays when riding hard in the deeper stuff. Some days when it's cold and fresh I have to putt for a while to get it to 125 where I feel it's okay to start pinning it.
I took it to flashing light on the stand (185ish) and steady light (205ish)
Might be a weight saving feature for the next M's but I changed my spring check to get the HCR cooler now (and everything else HCR is traded off it). I've been happy with my decision. Short of the defective hose Cat gave us I have not seen any negative to it. It's better in function than my M-sleds were.
I know with the pipe set and cooler I am 40 lbs or more lighter on the snow than any standard PC I ride with. And I don't need paint on my tunnel.
Hopefully I will find another 10 or 15lbs of dry weight on the next bash at it but I'm pretty happy with the weight I ride now.
That said, i believe there is at least a 10 pound RTR weight savings and in actual use much more. There is close to zero snow build up on the running boards and rear tunnel in any snow conditions or temps or speeds. I don't run trails too much but some rides I do up to 30 miles of snowcross to get there and back. I removed my scratchers 2 months ago and stopped watching the temp gauge (except to warm up) one month ago.
Hottest I've ever seen in use is 146 on the gauge (full throttle hard pack ride in) and just a jump off the side into fresh brought it back to 136 ish where it stays when riding hard in the deeper stuff. Some days when it's cold and fresh I have to putt for a while to get it to 125 where I feel it's okay to start pinning it.
I took it to flashing light on the stand (185ish) and steady light (205ish)
Might be a weight saving feature for the next M's but I changed my spring check to get the HCR cooler now (and everything else HCR is traded off it). I've been happy with my decision. Short of the defective hose Cat gave us I have not seen any negative to it. It's better in function than my M-sleds were.
I know with the pipe set and cooler I am 40 lbs or more lighter on the snow than any standard PC I ride with. And I don't need paint on my tunnel.
Hopefully I will find another 10 or 15lbs of dry weight on the next bash at it but I'm pretty happy with the weight I ride now.
C
Is the insulation and shield around the stock 800 pipe necessary? It weighs about 3 1/4lbs.
I rode about 30 miles with it off and I didn't notice any issues. Besides running the risk of melting the hood or wires or something in the long run what else does it do?
FYI I also cut out all the baffles/fins on the intake like Bret R did. I cut a bit more than he and gained about 1lb 9oz. Unable to ride as our snow is now gone, but the intake is a bit louder now in the garage.
I rode about 30 miles with it off and I didn't notice any issues. Besides running the risk of melting the hood or wires or something in the long run what else does it do?
FYI I also cut out all the baffles/fins on the intake like Bret R did. I cut a bit more than he and gained about 1lb 9oz. Unable to ride as our snow is now gone, but the intake is a bit louder now in the garage.
A
You want to keep the heat in the pipe, have your local powder coating shop ceramic coat it (our local shop does ceramic coating) that will help keep the heat in the pipe with no insulation.
Im really suprised that nobody has came up through the ecu mount spot and got rid of the whole nose yet, thats atleast 5 pounds of un necessary plastic.
A smaller oil tank mouted closer to the oil pump would save a few.
Mines an hcr and you really notice the lack of snow buildup when your around other proclimbs.
I took off scratchers, took off several bogies, put a mbrp can on, cut the battery latch in half, took off all the foam, took off the two standing rail flip up mcunits. And im sure more that im forgettig but i bet im down 30 pounds for 250 bucks..
-Aksnopro
Im really suprised that nobody has came up through the ecu mount spot and got rid of the whole nose yet, thats atleast 5 pounds of un necessary plastic.
A smaller oil tank mouted closer to the oil pump would save a few.
Mines an hcr and you really notice the lack of snow buildup when your around other proclimbs.
I took off scratchers, took off several bogies, put a mbrp can on, cut the battery latch in half, took off all the foam, took off the two standing rail flip up mcunits. And im sure more that im forgettig but i bet im down 30 pounds for 250 bucks..
-Aksnopro
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C
How does the hcr cooler differ from the others?
C
Understood, I wondered about that...
Here's what I've done so far
- 13lbs SLP can
- 1lb 9oz baffle/fin removal in intake
- 3lb 3oz removed pipe insulation and shielding
- 2oz trimmed extra seat material
- 12oz removed bottom part of snow flap
- 5oz trimmed extra crap off battery holder for 1100 up to the 2 bolts
- 4oz removed black bracket up by the gauges
- 4oz removed tail light bracket
- 1lb 4oz ported the track
- 4oz removed the weird running board brackets
- 1lb 12oz removed middle idler wheels
- maybe 1lb defoamed hood
- 1lb removed primary clutch snow funnel vent
added some frogskin and a few vents on each side panel, a wash. Think i'm down a little over 24lbs about so far. I'm about out of free weight loss things that I know of
Working on deleting the adjustable steering post right now. Think there's a couple pounds to save there, plus I bent it. Also want to get rid of the giant oil tank at some point.
regarding the hcr cooler...Its smaller and doesn't go as far back on the tunnel i believe (ask GEO). The real weight savings as others have said is that the melting snow doesn't stick and collect on inside and outside of tunnel like the PC. Same have voiced concern about overheating on trails with HCR cooler.
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S
The HCR doesn't have a rear cooler at all. Only a front. But it does get hot in low snow conditions. I had a 12' HCR blow the coolant bottle off the bulkhead fitting and blow coolant all over the engine. I was only 3 miles from the truck on frozen trail. We put coolant tube back on bulkhead, tightened the worm gear clamp tight, and filled back up with coolant. Ran fine rest of the day. Only got hot once on a whopped out single track trail. Also, the worm gear clamp for water pump to bulkhead tube was not tight. We tightened that up also.
I am leaving the HCR at home for a trip this weekend to Snowy Range, Wy. With current spring riding I wouldn't trust it to not overheat. Something to think about if you like spring riding conditions.
I am leaving the HCR at home for a trip this weekend to Snowy Range, Wy. With current spring riding I wouldn't trust it to not overheat. Something to think about if you like spring riding conditions.
J
My dealer gave me a new coolant hose and clamps for my 12' HCR becasue the clear one wasn't rated for the temps.
I rode mine last weekend at the snowies with no problems and it was plenty warm, espically Saturday, got sunburnt just from taking breaks. I did run the scratchers down all the time.
Here's a visual for folks wondering about the HCR cooler.
sno pro cooler
HCR cooler
Unfortunately, they made it all one piece now, so changing the cooler out requires pulling the entire setup, or welding.
For this reason, if you were to twist up the back 1/2 like many of us have on the M's... you can't just toss new lines in... you need the ENTIRE assembly.
If the swap was more affordable & reasonably priced ($350 for the HCR unit... not that bad really for how much weight you REALLY lose) I'd have done it already.
btw, first mod we did to our 12:
http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/procross-proclimb-chassis-general-discussion/311457-2012-bdx-oil-injection-delete-instructions-m800-w-pics.html (I want to apologize in advance for the shots of the back of Bparks's head!)
I did a full "how to" on it on ACchat, loses a lot of weight & allows you to run a tunnel dump if you want to.
btw, the 38" arms if only losing 1 actual pound, made it FEEL lighter, which imo is more important than actual weight.
sno pro cooler
HCR cooler
Unfortunately, they made it all one piece now, so changing the cooler out requires pulling the entire setup, or welding.
For this reason, if you were to twist up the back 1/2 like many of us have on the M's... you can't just toss new lines in... you need the ENTIRE assembly.
If the swap was more affordable & reasonably priced ($350 for the HCR unit... not that bad really for how much weight you REALLY lose) I'd have done it already.
btw, first mod we did to our 12:
http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/procross-proclimb-chassis-general-discussion/311457-2012-bdx-oil-injection-delete-instructions-m800-w-pics.html (I want to apologize in advance for the shots of the back of Bparks's head!)
I did a full "how to" on it on ACchat, loses a lot of weight & allows you to run a tunnel dump if you want to.
btw, the 38" arms if only losing 1 actual pound, made it FEEL lighter, which imo is more important than actual weight.
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J
oil delete
Maybe I missed it, does BDX or anyone else make a chaincase cover then once the oil delete is done?
guess now looking at it, the oil tank can seperate from the chaincase cover - got it.
Maybe I missed it, does BDX or anyone else make a chaincase cover then once the oil delete is done?
guess now looking at it, the oil tank can seperate from the chaincase cover - got it.
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we thought about milling off the high spots on the chain case cover (back of the oil tank) but the MG is pretty light, so we decided to leave it, then we can always "un-delete" if the next owner wants it back (that option was darn near a no way on the M, kind of nice that we can do this on the PC)
this is what I mean by the high spots btw
this is what I mean by the high spots btw
P
There is no way in hell that the proclimb drops thirty pounds to get to the '13 pro weight. Maybe you're talking about cat's dry weight and poo's wet weight?
Also, my brother put on 40 hp in under $1500 on his 2012. CHALLENGE ACCEPTED AND COMPLETED.
G
Mad max; was that a dry weight loss? Or did it include the extra 2.3 litres of coolant that is included in RTR weight?
The hose problems were on more that just the HCR's. In a proper pressure system the cap should release some pressure before a hose breaks.
I changed my hose before it broke and took the sled to full light on on the stand and not a drop left the overflow.
In actual use, it is fine to me without scratchers so far and that is with a leaner and more powerful than stock SLP pipe package. Haven't got close to flashing yet and on the last ride I overheated the brake big time and started to smell plastic. Scratchers are going back on for the sliders.
As predicted they will come on some 2013's and we'll see if they increase the size of the front cooler ('cause they have lot's of room). I wouldn't be worried about it.
The hose problems were on more that just the HCR's. In a proper pressure system the cap should release some pressure before a hose breaks.
I changed my hose before it broke and took the sled to full light on on the stand and not a drop left the overflow.
In actual use, it is fine to me without scratchers so far and that is with a leaner and more powerful than stock SLP pipe package. Haven't got close to flashing yet and on the last ride I overheated the brake big time and started to smell plastic. Scratchers are going back on for the sliders.
As predicted they will come on some 2013's and we'll see if they increase the size of the front cooler ('cause they have lot's of room). I wouldn't be worried about it.
W
as much weigh loss as possible
This aint cheap, but holy crap is it fun.
C3 carbon tunnel -13.5lbs
single pass u cooler -7 lbs (material and coolant) still no cooling issues.
C3 carbon hood -24lbs
C3 carbon fuel tank -15lbs (38L)
ceramic coated pipe -3lbs (no heat shielding)
C3 belt drive -15lbs ( oil injection delete included)
Carbon fibre can -20 lbs
Total weight loss to date -95 lbs (give or take 5 lbs)
sled weighed 395lbs dry. lbs to lose yet
rear skid -15lbs
seat -6 lbs
fronts suspension -15 lbs
hopefully putiing this sled at 360lbs dry. I will say this, at the current wieght of 395 it will run with a pump gas turbos all day. cost is a bit more than a pump gas turbo, but your not fatigued at the end of a 3 days riding. a pump gas turbo sits at 515lbs dry.
OH and for the guys out there calculating these weights and saying it doesn't add up, your right cuz there is a bit more weight taken out other places that will remain between me and the sled.
This aint cheap, but holy crap is it fun.
C3 carbon tunnel -13.5lbs
single pass u cooler -7 lbs (material and coolant) still no cooling issues.
C3 carbon hood -24lbs
C3 carbon fuel tank -15lbs (38L)
ceramic coated pipe -3lbs (no heat shielding)
C3 belt drive -15lbs ( oil injection delete included)
Carbon fibre can -20 lbs
Total weight loss to date -95 lbs (give or take 5 lbs)
sled weighed 395lbs dry. lbs to lose yet
rear skid -15lbs
seat -6 lbs
fronts suspension -15 lbs
hopefully putiing this sled at 360lbs dry. I will say this, at the current wieght of 395 it will run with a pump gas turbos all day. cost is a bit more than a pump gas turbo, but your not fatigued at the end of a 3 days riding. a pump gas turbo sits at 515lbs dry.
OH and for the guys out there calculating these weights and saying it doesn't add up, your right cuz there is a bit more weight taken out other places that will remain between me and the sled.
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