How To Change Your DD Track.
- Thread starter silverram323
- Start date
That's weird about the brake rotor. With that peened nut off the rotor should just slide out. Getting the rest of the brake assembly off the shaft looks like a bitch though, so unless you are planning to change the rotor, or the two bearings in the brake assembly, there is really no point in getting it off as the backside of the brake assembly prevents it from going through the bulkhead anyhow. I read somewhere on here that you could maneuver that assembly and rotor through the bulkhead....my experience says no way. Perhaps it could be done, but I'm not smart enough do it.
By laying the sled on its right side, gravity helps the drive shaft stay as far out of the way as possible so you can work the track in there. After that I put the DD back on and then worked the drive shaft onto the DD and then tightened the brake assembly side down. I found it easier to do these steps with the sled back upright. Before putting the big bolt back inside the drive shaft, I loosened the DD again so that I could more easily get that rubber snubber back in there (because I was too stupid to put the snubber back in earlier when I reinstalled the DD), then I tightened everything down for good. An air ratchet is definitely a 'nice to have' item for this job. Not sure if any of this is useful info, but thought I would put it out there for you. Hope it goes well. From everything I've read, both the 2.5 CE and 2.6 Powerclaw are pretty big performance upgrades, so hopefully this will be worth it. Now it just needs to snow... a lot!
By laying the sled on its right side, gravity helps the drive shaft stay as far out of the way as possible so you can work the track in there. After that I put the DD back on and then worked the drive shaft onto the DD and then tightened the brake assembly side down. I found it easier to do these steps with the sled back upright. Before putting the big bolt back inside the drive shaft, I loosened the DD again so that I could more easily get that rubber snubber back in there (because I was too stupid to put the snubber back in earlier when I reinstalled the DD), then I tightened everything down for good. An air ratchet is definitely a 'nice to have' item for this job. Not sure if any of this is useful info, but thought I would put it out there for you. Hope it goes well. From everything I've read, both the 2.5 CE and 2.6 Powerclaw are pretty big performance upgrades, so hopefully this will be worth it. Now it just needs to snow... a lot!
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There is no need to remove the brake rotor. just take the 5 nuts off the inside and the assembly will come loose. See post #2 When i did this wright up i did this all by my self, it can be done, Its also easier to tip the sled on the right and slide the track into the track shaft if your struggling from underneath.
AM I missing something? Don't you have to take the retaining nut off to pull the drive shaft out. I just changed my track, and using a manual, it says you have to take that large nut off. Just wondering. I'm confused....I'll have to look at it again.
Great write up btw.
Great write up btw.
No, you do not.
I got the peened nut off, the entire brake assembly loose, and I when I tried to take the rotor off to completely remove the drive shaft, that's when I started looking for other methods (and how I found this thread). I already had everything done listed here by that point. I just can't fit the damn track in 
That's why I went back to trying to get the rotor off.
It's got me wondering though....what if I needed to change the rotor or get the drive shaft out for some other reason? I can't believe how much force I put on that thing and it didn't budge. I might try the crack torch today if tilting the chassis on its side doesn't work. Thanks for all the help guys.
That's why I went back to trying to get the rotor off.It's got me wondering though....what if I needed to change the rotor or get the drive shaft out for some other reason? I can't believe how much force I put on that thing and it didn't budge. I might try the crack torch today if tilting the chassis on its side doesn't work. Thanks for all the help guys.
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I got the peened nut off, the entire brake assembly loose, and I when I tried to take the rotor off to completely remove the drive shaft, that's when I started looking for other methods (and how I found this thread). I already had everything done listed here by that point. I just can't fit the damn track in
It's got me wondering though....what if I needed to change the rotor or get the drive shaft out for some other reason? I can't believe how much force I put on that thing and it didn't budge. I might try the crack torch today if tilting the chassis on its side doesn't work. Thanks for all the help guys.
I had to use a combination of heat and cold to get mine off. I'd heat the rotor and try to cool the shaft with some freezing penetrating oil.
I'm going to go ahead and say that rolling the sled on the right side is a MANDATORY step if you're not pulling the rotor.
Took me like 8 seconds to get the track in once I wasn't trying to shove it up while being all balled up on the floor.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Took me like 8 seconds to get the track in once I wasn't trying to shove it up while being all balled up on the floor.
Thanks for all the help guys!
M7 Track Replacement
Thank you for the refresher course! Will be of great help today!
Thank you for the refresher course! Will be of great help today!
