D
enclosed trailer tips
- Thread starter spomey
- Start date
O
Picked up bed liners from Tuff Coat guys for $20 a piece and cut into track for floor. Painted floor, installed linner/track. Put cabinets and hangers in from Lowes (Guardian). They can be moved or removed from wall with ease also. Total investment $575.
Got a used 30k Suburban heateron CL for $200, now working on installing it under the trailer floor. I didn't want it taking up valauble interior space.
Built a steel cage, lined with plywood, lined that with 1" foiled foam insulation. I hooked it up to see how it works. Can't wait toget it all done, have alot of work left to do.
Pic of the 1" angle iron frame.
Pic of the furnace installed in the box.
Built a steel cage, lined with plywood, lined that with 1" foiled foam insulation. I hooked it up to see how it works. Can't wait toget it all done, have alot of work left to do.
Pic of the 1" angle iron frame.
Pic of the furnace installed in the box.
R
Hey Skibreeze, when I mounted mine furnace, I also thought about putting it under/in the floor of the trailer. I couldn't come up with a good way to get the 55 Sq. inches required for the Return Air(mine is a SF35, so not sure what the CL needs) where are you taking the return air from, inside the trailer or out side?
I am going to have 2 vents in the center of the trailer lengthwise right above the furnace for the return. I am also using 4 4" pvc pipes for the heat, also run down the center of the trailer. The center is good to keep water from draining into the vents and they will be sealed and slightly raised.
R
That sounds like it might work real good. :thumb: With the return being on the ground, it should help keep the warm air down. Keep us updated with pictures.
Changed the plan a little. I used 4 4x10 floor vents, 2 for the return air and 2 more for the heat. one in front and one in back. Each heat vent has 2 4" tubes from the furnace.
I
Cargo Trailer, enclosed on a budget
Over the years I've struggled with finding the right trailer setup to use year round. I sled, dirtbike, streetbike, and summer camp. The 2 place snowmobile trailers just didn't seem to work for me in the summer, as the street bike won't clear the ramp to bed transition. And since my son stopped riding sleds (liking snowboarding more) I found I was using it only a few months out of the year. Last season, with sled trailer sold, I was loading sled and bike in the back of the pickup and sleeping in a tent on summer trips. Which is convenient but sucks for obvious reasons (rain, packing, setup time ...) I missed having all my gear in one place and living/sleeping/dressing out of the weather.
So here's the latest solution, a 6x14ft single axle Cargo Trailer. Goal is to keep it simple, light, multi functional, and cheap (as compared to an OEM SM trailer, TH, Canned Ham, etc.). One sled in the winter for when I'm not loading on a friend's trailer and in summer my street and dirt bikes will load nicely. For camping, shelves, cabinets, and a removeable foldup bed on the wall (with real rv mattress and a heated 12v blanket, etc., etc.). Figure I'll have about $4500 in it when done. Depends on how carried away I get with electrical and goodies (microwave?). There are definately tricker setups, you just have to look around at all the cool haulers here and on other sites, but the cost can get crazy high ..
When it warms up it'll be time to paint the walls white, Ebay windows, chocks, flooring, 12v wiring, and the bed.
Here's some pics of what I've done so far. Any suggestions are welcome.
Over the years I've struggled with finding the right trailer setup to use year round. I sled, dirtbike, streetbike, and summer camp. The 2 place snowmobile trailers just didn't seem to work for me in the summer, as the street bike won't clear the ramp to bed transition. And since my son stopped riding sleds (liking snowboarding more) I found I was using it only a few months out of the year. Last season, with sled trailer sold, I was loading sled and bike in the back of the pickup and sleeping in a tent on summer trips. Which is convenient but sucks for obvious reasons (rain, packing, setup time ...) I missed having all my gear in one place and living/sleeping/dressing out of the weather.
So here's the latest solution, a 6x14ft single axle Cargo Trailer. Goal is to keep it simple, light, multi functional, and cheap (as compared to an OEM SM trailer, TH, Canned Ham, etc.). One sled in the winter for when I'm not loading on a friend's trailer and in summer my street and dirt bikes will load nicely. For camping, shelves, cabinets, and a removeable foldup bed on the wall (with real rv mattress and a heated 12v blanket, etc., etc.). Figure I'll have about $4500 in it when done. Depends on how carried away I get with electrical and goodies (microwave?). There are definately tricker setups, you just have to look around at all the cool haulers here and on other sites, but the cost can get crazy high ..
When it warms up it'll be time to paint the walls white, Ebay windows, chocks, flooring, 12v wiring, and the bed.
Here's some pics of what I've done so far. Any suggestions are welcome.
Last edited:
C
Has anyone questioned the strength of the trailer walls? Are they strong enough for added weight as shelving units, etc? Some trailer look pretty light.. Weight and structural speeking
Wall Strength
I can walk on the top of my trailer. I try to stay on the cross members but was assured by the builder that I would have no problems walking on it.
I have added a clothes rack and some shelving in my trailer. I am not going to be putting 5-600 lbs in any of it. I figure if it will hold my 200# of fat butt it will certainly hold 150# of junk in a cabinet.
I can walk on the top of my trailer. I try to stay on the cross members but was assured by the builder that I would have no problems walking on it.
I have added a clothes rack and some shelving in my trailer. I am not going to be putting 5-600 lbs in any of it. I figure if it will hold my 200# of fat butt it will certainly hold 150# of junk in a cabinet.
S
does anyone know or have pictures of a ski deflector for a v nose trailer to direct the sled out of the front door?
Latest upgrades to mine, Home Depot sourced shelving and painted the lower plywood sides.
Some LED lighting
Insulating
New flooring.
Some LED lighting
Insulating
New flooring.
Slide Glides
Here ya go. They make ski guides as well as the bed protectors
http://www.slideguides.com/trailer_slides.html
Here ya go. They make ski guides as well as the bed protectors
http://www.slideguides.com/trailer_slides.html
Latest upgrades to mine, Home Depot sourced shelving and painted the lower plywood sides.
Insulating
New flooring.
OK so what's the Grab Handles for down by the floor?
And how ling did it take you to insulate you walls? Did you do the ceiling to?
S
i saw this one... just a piece on l channel? i could fasten a piece of 2x4 to the floor to get the same effect, Has anyone used these from mirage? http://parts.mirageinc.com/products/249-ski-deflector.aspx
Last edited:
Curved Ski Guides
I used these. I drive in the front and this keeps skiis from hitting the wall.
https://www.denniskirk.com/caliber/flex-glide-high.p514336.prd/514336.sku
I used them on the front of my open trailer to turn the sled to go down the ramp on the front as well.
I used these. I drive in the front and this keeps skiis from hitting the wall.
https://www.denniskirk.com/caliber/flex-glide-high.p514336.prd/514336.sku
I used them on the front of my open trailer to turn the sled to go down the ramp on the front as well.
Thought I would bump this thread.
Thought I would add some pictures of what I've done to mine over the last year or so. I've added a suburban furnace enclosed it in aluminum sheeting and ran some PVC ductwork. I was able to figure out how to open up the front of the V inside and manged to squeeze a propane tank at the bottom and sealed from the electric area, then a battery shelf, and above that a RV style charger converter that runs my 12v and 110v systems and a battery meter gauge. I started to put a car style radio in but had a set of PC speakers sitting around and being i'm on 110 most of the time anyway I decided to use them with a cell phone or ipod for music which someone always has. For lighting I've added 6 florescent 12v lights. I took my cabinets out cause they were in the way some day I plan to cut them into shorter cabinet and re install one section in the back. I replaced all my exterior lights with LEDs and the backup lights are so bright I wired them up as loading lights you can switch on from inside the trailer. For a toolbox I use my Montezuma V style toolbox from my farm pickup a couple nuts unbolts it from the pickup and bolts it in the trailer. I had to cut out some of the lower bracing on the shelf and the toolbox is pretty heavy so I've added cables from the ceiling beams to the outside of the shelf with a couple thousand miles that way it seems to be doing the trick. I also added a 5ft section of shelving track in the V with different kinds of hooks to hold ext cord, spare parts, tie straps, coats ect. http://www.menards.com/main/storage...t-tap-mount-track-white/p-1656458-c-12657.htm
I was also having a lot of trouble with mice which is what led me to all the open room in the front V other then some wires that made great ladders for the mice it was pretty open. I have a very fine meshed steel that the propane tank sits on but the mice can't get through and then I went around underneath all the wall cavities and sprayed and expandable foam that said its mouse proof. Since I've done that I have had a single sign of mice in the trailer.
Last edited:
Similar threads
