M
Has anyone ever tried to put the front of the suspension in the same position as an elevate in the hole that is not drilled and without changing the back . Without raised spindle
Alpha rear suspension
- Thread starter mathieutrem
- Start date
I do this on every sled I've owned. It creates less ski pressure, and make the machine much more playful. This does require stiffer front shock, either more air or increased spring pressure.
M
you do on the alpha, I was told that the hyfax were going to overheat and that I was going to destroy my track
yes, on my Alpha also. It may increase hyfax wear. It really depends on the type of snow you have. Ice scratchers are a must on trails, and a bolt through the ski bottom my be required. I have 20 miles of groomed trail to access our rding area... 300 miles & normal wear on the hyfax.
over tightening the track can be a issue with hyfax wear also. if you drop the front of the skid down, you will have to re-adjust you track tension, or it will likely be too tight. Additionally, leave the rear mount in the middle hole.
M
yes I always put my scratcher on the trail, I'll try it and if I break my track I'll send you the bill ???
I'm going back to stock front hole position. My 2020 Hardcore track is roasted with a bunch of half paddles down to the fiberglass on the inside from heat and I think added pressure. I love the way it handles but it's not worth destroying a track. I run elevate spindles and the sled is turboed now, so it will still be plenty playful
Sadly, the manufacturer has made this track, basically disposable. No matter how you treat this track, it is going to fail somehow, some way. If there weren't design flaws, Cat would not have made a design change. Set your chassis & suspension up however you desire. I just responded to the question you asked. I have been building mod sleds professionally for over 25yrs. I do have a little knowledge/experience.
K
Some guys love to haul ass down the trail, this is not the track for that!
P
So how should you set it up ? Iam trying to learn on my 21 hardcore 154x2.5 . I only weigh 155-69 with gear and pack lol
Suspension set up, is very rider/style/application specific. New riders tend to like the comfort of good ski pressure, and the ability to "drive/steer" the sled where they want to go. More advanced riders might prefer less ski pressure, and and a more balanced ride to their machine. This is quite dependent on terrain, riding style, typical snow conditions, and rider skill level. By dropping the front of the skid out from the chassis, a lighter ski pressure is achieved. This makes the machine more like riding a stand up jet ski... kind of a balancing act as you ride. This can be achieved by letting out the limiter strap (if adjustable) or by lowering the mounting points in the chassis.
The best advice I can give you, is to try one change at a time to see if you like the handling. Additionally, you need to ride the machine in varying snow conditions. What works for you in powder, might be not so much fun on the hard pack. In all reality, your suspension set-up should change according to snow conditions. Most riders won't bother to change set-ups from weekend to weekend. But set-up should at least be changed for powder or hard pack.
I lways set my center shock, stiff enough so it supports the weight of the machine, only collapsing slightly. The rear mounting points should be in an upper position, to create a gap between the floor/ground and the track. This creates a "rocker" effect, which maximizes traction, and lightens ski pressure for a more playful ride.
M
but nothing proves what would not have failed if the the suspension in stock front hole
G
I wouldn't chalk this up to skid position, my 20 did this to 14 lugs in 600 miles all stock.
When your dropping the front skid you are in-fact not only changing the ski pressure but also the way the track contacts the snow...
Snow condition play alot of how your sled is going to react- but now that all it seems back to 25 + years ago we are dropping the skid in the front. -
People, ( It seems) want to stand on the rear bumper and pull the skis - Big Woop !!
Doesn't do much when only 1/4 of your track is in the snow ...
Snow condition play alot of how your sled is going to react- but now that all it seems back to 25 + years ago we are dropping the skid in the front. -
People, ( It seems) want to stand on the rear bumper and pull the skis - Big Woop !!
Doesn't do much when only 1/4 of your track is in the snow ...
M
yes, I know. I do this to facilitate technical maneuvers (hop over, reentri, bowtie…)
by dropping the front of the skid, by which ever means, you are building in "weight transfer" so there is no need to "stand on the rear bumper" This also helps, to some extent, the sled to climb up on the snow. But you are correct... It ALL depends on snow conditions, terrain, and rider preference.
Dropping the front of the skid does the opposite of helping the sled climb up on the snow. It creates a wheely hanging trench machine in my experience.
...to each their own. There is a fine line to achieve. My experience is the opposite. If the sled has to push the skis through the snow in order to climb up on it, its a problem. If there is slight lift and weight transfer, it will climb up on the snow sooner. This does require some finesse with throttle & body positioning. If you garb a handful of throttle and yank back on the bars, or stand way back on the running boards....(as most inexperienced riders do)... yes, its going to trench.
P
So why are there not many holes and links and you know? It’s been forever but that’s a popular method in the auto racing world (options that is)
Agree to a degree. Varies based on the particular sled, rider, and power level. I adjust based on snow conditions. If It's deep, too much pressure on the front of the skid is detrimental to moving through the snow. Firmer snow you can drop it more or crank up the FTS spring to help lift the front more.
Also, I'm not a fan of sucking up the limiter strap for my riding because then you lose suspension travel in the bumps. So I try to adjust ski pressure and deep snow performance with the spring setting. Spring is also easier to change on the fly on the hill.
Oh there are plenty of options. You can take two identical sleds and make them handle entirely differently in different situations depending on the setup. Too many options on a production snowmobile and it just ends up confusing most people. 90% don't even adjust their handlebars and controls from how they come from the dealer. Let alone suspension or clutching. Auto racing you also don't need the suspension to handle a real wide range of terrain so shock travel is down, and you can do more with the mounting points than the shock function. Aftermarket snowmobile drag racing suspensions have more mounting holes like you're talking about. Off-road suspensions generally have more fixed points after they are developed and the shock adjustments and settings become really important.
