2011 Summer Project
- Thread starter richracer1
- Start date
An update on my progress; Sunday, 7-31, I got the tank and seat on. Took the sled off the saw horses and onto the stand. Slash925 came over and helped me get the engine into chassis. Today, I got the IFS, shocks, wiring harness/electronics plate, fenders, hood, and handle bars installed. I took the skid, chaincase and driveshaft out for the future final install w/either a new track or the stock track.
Just an update, most of the sled has been put back together except for the chaincase, skid, and airbox (have to alter it for the new thermostat housing location). I now have the Float2 shocks installed on the skid and waiting for the new track, a 154" Peak 2.5, to show up. I've been talking with SLP on clutching and so far I may have to buy some new gears (18/41) and a new helix (50/40-.36). We'll be talking more Monday (hopefully the track arrives early enough) when I take the track out to show them.
As an FYI, I weighed the stock brake rotor and the new saw blade rotor and the saw blade rotor is 1lb less. The complete Mtn. Tamer skid came in at about 38lbs minus my slidekick ice scratchers.
As an FYI, I weighed the stock brake rotor and the new saw blade rotor and the saw blade rotor is 1lb less. The complete Mtn. Tamer skid came in at about 38lbs minus my slidekick ice scratchers.
Yesterday I finally got around to checking the clutch alignment and of course it had to be off, about .110", so out came the engine and the FTX mount plate is at SLP getting milled so I can rotate the engine. Well, before all of this, I partially installed the side panels and snapped a few pics of the sled. This is what it'll look like when I can put it all back together.
The Peak 2.5 track wrapped around a 2011 Mtn Tamer and IceAge rails. I put the Skinz covers on the Float2 shocks to help protect them.
The Peak 2.5 track wrapped around a 2011 Mtn Tamer and IceAge rails. I put the Skinz covers on the Float2 shocks to help protect them.
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I love your sled so far.
PLEASE!!!! pull the warning stickers off to make that look real good!
Another way to improve that is to move the controls to the 09+ Dragon style (rocker switches on the panel). That would allow you to lose the tractor controls. A good RSI bar would look sweet with a red and black pad!
I'm still a big fan of the IQ RMK's...looks great.
PLEASE!!!! pull the warning stickers off to make that look real good!
Another way to improve that is to move the controls to the 09+ Dragon style (rocker switches on the panel). That would allow you to lose the tractor controls. A good RSI bar would look sweet with a red and black pad!
I'm still a big fan of the IQ RMK's...looks great.
I've thought about removing the stickers, but I'm concerned that it'll leave a darker area than around them - guess I can try one tonight and go from there. As for the switches, I like them on the handle bars, personal preference I guess. I've also though about a different handle bar set-up, but unless I can find something already mounted to see how it feels, I don't want to spend the cash only to find I hate it. A lot has gone out already with the potential of another $400 going out shortly for the Tied clutch - still thinking about this, either way I have to buy a new helix due to the track. I'm also debating on different side panel vents as I'm not totally satisfied with the Frogskin vents I put on, maybe I'm being too anal about the side panel vents. I really like the looks of the Boondocker side panel vents, but at $160 for the set.........
http://shop.boondockers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_31&products_id=244
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Stickers have been removed. The sled is back together, again, except for the secondary clutch, which I should have Tuesday next week. Maybe I'll get it started the following weekend and start getting some heat cycles on it.
did you make a decision on the side panel vents?
Still deciding, but they are low on the list which I can work on later. I need to make sure I have all the required components ready to make sure it runs before I really worry about the look of some venting, but I really do like the Boondocker side panel vents though. I first saw the vents on a used '08 700 T-Dragon the Poo dealer has and looked at them again yeaterday when I went in to buy some more Engine Ice for the sled.
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Clutch Alignment - What a pain!!!!!!!
I totally forgot to give the info about aligning my clutches.
With the FTX engine mount, I had .099 on the front and .208 at the rear of the secondary using SLP's alignment tool that's made for the TSS-98 and TSS-04. Dustin at SLP worked with me on all of this, so I had SLP mill three of the four holes used to mount the engine to the plate .110 so the engine could rotate on the plate. I had already some of the shims and what seemed like forever trying different stack thicknesses, I finally found the right stack thickness. I now have .100 at the front and .118 at the rear of the secondary with .041 of float. I also got good at removing/installing the engine because of this job. I have also decided on upgrading to the Team Tied clutch which Dustin has worked up a spring and helix set-up for me. The helix will be the 73-55.46 / 73-57.46 and the spring will either be the Team Red/Dark Blue (140 - 200) or the Red/Black (140 - 240). I'll have this next week so maybe I'll finally get this thing started up next Wednesday or Saturday.
I totally forgot to give the info about aligning my clutches.
With the FTX engine mount, I had .099 on the front and .208 at the rear of the secondary using SLP's alignment tool that's made for the TSS-98 and TSS-04. Dustin at SLP worked with me on all of this, so I had SLP mill three of the four holes used to mount the engine to the plate .110 so the engine could rotate on the plate. I had already some of the shims and what seemed like forever trying different stack thicknesses, I finally found the right stack thickness. I now have .100 at the front and .118 at the rear of the secondary with .041 of float. I also got good at removing/installing the engine because of this job. I have also decided on upgrading to the Team Tied clutch which Dustin has worked up a spring and helix set-up for me. The helix will be the 73-55.46 / 73-57.46 and the spring will either be the Team Red/Dark Blue (140 - 200) or the Red/Black (140 - 240). I'll have this next week so maybe I'll finally get this thing started up next Wednesday or Saturday.
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R
drivers
Is there any benefit of switching to avid drivers over the stock anti ratchet? Just wondering cuz the peaks track also has the center porting for the stock drivers.
Build is lookn good!
Is there any benefit of switching to avid drivers over the stock anti ratchet? Just wondering cuz the peaks track also has the center porting for the stock drivers.
Build is lookn good!
Poo stopped putting the center anti-ratchet on the sleds a few years ago, don't know which year. My sled didn't have any kind of anti-ratchet driver. I did buy a used center driver, but got a good deal on a drive shaft already set-up with Avids.
Huh??????
MH, am I wrong about the center driver on the Poo sleds? Mine only had two drivers neither of which were any type of anti ratchet.
V
Was that a Dragon only feature and not offered on the standard RMK version?
The center drivers were standard on all the PRO RMK's, RMK"s and Assaults for 2011/12 as well as the Dragons from 2008 on... Maybe you got lucky and they left yours off?
The 2008 155's got the two drivers... the 163's got the third driver.... 2009 All of them had it, std & Dragon.
BTW..Saw your post on the Peaks track... was that in a Dragon or PRO chassis?
Would I be pushing my luck to ask you to measure the clearance at the front of the tunnel-roof to the tip of the track lug and take a pic of that?? I found that drill bits are a great way to get the measurement accurately rather than a ruler etc.
I'm sincerely curious about that taller track on the stock drivers.
Thanks!!
The 2008 155's got the two drivers... the 163's got the third driver.... 2009 All of them had it, std & Dragon.
BTW..Saw your post on the Peaks track... was that in a Dragon or PRO chassis?
Would I be pushing my luck to ask you to measure the clearance at the front of the tunnel-roof to the tip of the track lug and take a pic of that?? I found that drill bits are a great way to get the measurement accurately rather than a ruler etc.
I'm sincerely curious about that taller track on the stock drivers.
Thanks!!
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My sled is the std '09 700 RMK, so who knows what the deal is with the center driver and my sled. Anway I stand corrected. As for the clearance, again a std '09 700 RMK 155" w/front cooler. I measure tomorrow as I just got home from camping and I'm tired.
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Track Clearance Request
Here's some more pics, I hope it's what you're looking for. As for measurements, no way to reach the front of the two tunnel coolers, but the clearance around the right side motor mount nutplate is close to 7/16" (kind of tough measuring in this area). The closest point is near the bottom of the bulhhead/tunnel cooler at 13/32".
Here's some more pics, I hope it's what you're looking for. As for measurements, no way to reach the front of the two tunnel coolers, but the clearance around the right side motor mount nutplate is close to 7/16" (kind of tough measuring in this area). The closest point is near the bottom of the bulhhead/tunnel cooler at 13/32".
