2010 rmk voltage regulator

[halfcreek]

I just purchased a 2010 rmk 800.
The will not start. I have checked the starter, ignition, kill switch, and have now moved to the voltage regulator as the potential problem.

I found a diagram and test for a different regulator/ part number.

Will this VR test work for different part numbers? It seems to me that the same test would apply. My thought is that something reading "ol" should be the same on all of them, no matter the part number/ VR.

I have 3 readings that state "OL" on the test diagram that are each giving me a reading of 1.632.

The VR I have is part #4013587. I think this is the latest VR released.

I have found a new VR anywhere from $50-$300. Is there a difference? I think the one I have now has a shut off mechanism to ensure not to fry the ecu. Do they all have this feature? Trying to avoid $300 while I am unsure the issue.

I have attached two pictures. One with the test diagram I used and another with my multimeter results (with the VR currently installed on the sled).

Thanks for your time

Sent from my XP8800 using Tapatalk

 

[halfcreek]

Checked the *stator
not the "starter"

 

[RHODESIE]

when you pull the rope does the fuel pump cycle? if not power up the pump with a battery through the harness at the diagnostics plugs cluster. then try it.
if it fires up unhook the battery and see if it stays running. most likely it will. then if it won't start without powering up the fuel pump the ecu is fried.
volt reg cooks and fries the ecu.

 

[retiredpop]

I checked a spare regulator I have and the readings are OL to C, D and E as they should be. According to that I would say your VR is bad. 4013587 is the latest issue and it won't take out the ECU if it goes bad. Have you isolated the problem to a no spark issue or no fuel issue?

 

[norcalsledder]

I have a 2010 600 RMK where the battery bar would slowly drop 1 bar at a time before the screen and lights would turn off, then eventually the sled would die. Everything I have read points to a voltage regulator issue. The part looks easy to swap and is mounted on top of the clutch guard. Anyone else had this issue and should I look at anything else before replacing? Any help appreciated.