What have you done or what ideas so you have to shed weight on this beast?
How to drop weight on the ProClimb?
- Thread starter WaBackcountry
- Start date
LOL
C
Some savings are approx weight. Update if you have actuals
New can - save 10 to 17 lbs
Cut btm of snow flap - 0.25 lb
Remove part of battery bracket - 0.25 lb
Trim seat material - 0.1 lb
Remove rear footboard closures - 0.25 lb
Install Probreather - 5 lb
Install Diamond S Hood - 7 lb (reinstall lights, windshield, intake)
Remove adjustable steering stem - 2 lb
Boss seat - 4 lbs
Total so far ~ 29 to 36 lbs with no reliability loss
Basically at 2012 Pro weight with 20 more ponies and a real sled
Try to add 20 reliable hp to the Pro for $1500.....you can't
New can - save 10 to 17 lbs
Cut btm of snow flap - 0.25 lb
Remove part of battery bracket - 0.25 lb
Trim seat material - 0.1 lb
Remove rear footboard closures - 0.25 lb
Install Probreather - 5 lb
Install Diamond S Hood - 7 lb (reinstall lights, windshield, intake)
Remove adjustable steering stem - 2 lb
Boss seat - 4 lbs
Total so far ~ 29 to 36 lbs with no reliability loss
Basically at 2012 Pro weight with 20 more ponies and a real sled
Try to add 20 reliable hp to the Pro for $1500.....you can't
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Easy. very easy.
Jack up the goggle bag and pull a Pro RMK under it.
I really really love my M1100 Turbo, 09 M8, 05 M7 and numerous AC since. But next year I looking to accompany it with a 800 two smoke and the '13 RMK is looking like a great candidate for that. I haven't bought a Polaris since '93 Storm POS. Please CAT fix the PC 800!!!!
Jack up the goggle bag and pull a Pro RMK under it.
I really really love my M1100 Turbo, 09 M8, 05 M7 and numerous AC since. But next year I looking to accompany it with a 800 two smoke and the '13 RMK is looking like a great candidate for that. I haven't bought a Polaris since '93 Storm POS. Please CAT fix the PC 800!!!!
Looking for real world information on shedding weight. I spent the last two days in two feet of pow and this beast climbs well but it was a handful in the steep trees.
I spent 7 years on a M series and this was only my 3rd ride on the PC800 so I may need some time but I know we can shed weight on this and make a good thing great.
Intake?
Can, pipe?
Steering post?
Oil delete?
These are the only areas I can think of. What do you got?
I spent 7 years on a M series and this was only my 3rd ride on the PC800 so I may need some time but I know we can shed weight on this and make a good thing great.
Intake?
Can, pipe?
Steering post?
Oil delete?
These are the only areas I can think of. What do you got?
Lightweight pc800
Do a search on carbon fiber. We built one with a skid, tank, tunnel, and hood. There are a couple different threads that have pics.
Do a search on carbon fiber. We built one with a skid, tank, tunnel, and hood. There are a couple different threads that have pics.
G
Slp pipe kit -19lbs. This pipe set does more for the usable power to this engine-chassis combo than it did for the '10 or '11. More like the wow I got when I put in on the '09.
HCR cooler it! Easy 20 maybe 25lbs riding weight lost.
I've probably taken another 10 lbs off with lots of other things like seat, top steering, wheels, flaps etc. but added it almost all back with skid plate, Simons skis, and Team.
38" front end is less than a pound lost but does make the tree work easier. Another, IMO, thing that makes tree work easier is getting full swing from the skis and taking away the full swing from the bars. I can't under stand how anyone would like the stock handle bar swing and the unconsious effort and body positioning it takes to stay away from those bar ends down by your important stuff. But that's just me and my riding in the trees.
Suspention set-up so it never feels tippy is important for tree riding comfort too.
With the seat, I gutted the stock foam (5.5 lbs) and replaced it with an old Boss. Now it's narrower, comfier in the seat, firmer in the front and with the belt and emergency kit in place, it still is 1/2 pound lighter than stock.
Tools are velcroed into the tank hole, still some room left.
I used to carry that stuff on my back so now I feel lighter LOL.
HCR cooler it! Easy 20 maybe 25lbs riding weight lost.
I've probably taken another 10 lbs off with lots of other things like seat, top steering, wheels, flaps etc. but added it almost all back with skid plate, Simons skis, and Team.
38" front end is less than a pound lost but does make the tree work easier. Another, IMO, thing that makes tree work easier is getting full swing from the skis and taking away the full swing from the bars. I can't under stand how anyone would like the stock handle bar swing and the unconsious effort and body positioning it takes to stay away from those bar ends down by your important stuff. But that's just me and my riding in the trees.
Suspention set-up so it never feels tippy is important for tree riding comfort too.
With the seat, I gutted the stock foam (5.5 lbs) and replaced it with an old Boss. Now it's narrower, comfier in the seat, firmer in the front and with the belt and emergency kit in place, it still is 1/2 pound lighter than stock.
Tools are velcroed into the tank hole, still some room left.
I used to carry that stuff on my back so now I feel lighter LOL.
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Geo-can u give more info on the HCR cooler? Swapping rear cooler I assume (part#)? Is the hcr cooler larger/go to edge of tunnel so u don't get all the snow build up?
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Top steering?
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Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
C
Bumped a thread on that yesterday and no takers. If you put on a Diamond S hood underhood air would be less of an issue though.
C
Well maybe i'll try er out, i've spent $140 on dumber things if it doesn't pan out. No snow here to test it though, hate to drive 12hrs to ride and it's a piece of crap.
J
i plan to try and cut some weight off the operator best place for me to start
C
Well maybe i'll try er out, i've spent $140 on dumber things if it doesn't pan out. No snow here to test it though, hate to drive 12hrs to ride and it's a piece of crap.
I think you have to carve out some material from the stocker so just be aware of that. Not sure if it's simple to go back to stock or not.
C
That'd be too easy! Lol
G
Ditto
I know the HPS can saves 16.5 lbs
Not really sure where else weight can be saved?
C
Good point, and as I think about it more there wouldn't be much difference between the probreather and just clamping some filters on the throttle body's. From my experience that doesn't usually work out so great.
idk... I could put filters right on the throttle body's a lot cheaper after you fig out what to do with the temp sensor, but it can't be that simple. Is the extra weight in stock form worth it to suck cold air? Not a fan of mesh hoods.
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I am looking at mesh hood also but i kept burning holes in the one i had on an m7 a few years back whenever i would roll it over to get it unstuck.
I ran timbersled intake on M series before and it seemed to run fine with lots of venting. I liked the BDX intake better. The after marktet intakes did not seem to improve HP but they did give me less bogging in deep snow. I just don't want lose significant performance/Horsepower by ripping out intake.
I ran timbersled intake on M series before and it seemed to run fine with lots of venting. I liked the BDX intake better. The after marktet intakes did not seem to improve HP but they did give me less bogging in deep snow. I just don't want lose significant performance/Horsepower by ripping out intake.
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