PC, XP, and P Pro width

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 12, 2011

Just thought I would let those that may be interested know how they stack up.

Where the plastic meets the running boards
Poo Pro- 29"
PC - 33"
XP - 35"

One reason why the pro can be put on steeper slopes when sidehilling with less effort drag and better performance.
I will be taking mine down to 29" then dropping the rails from more height and letting it really lean over without drag.

AKSNOWRIDER · Dec 12, 2011

uhmm..did you measure a doo super wide? because I am thinking its the widest by..well............feet..... instead of inches..........just messing with ya wyo..I still think it would be cheaper and easier just to buy a poo..but thats just me.......

backcountryislife · Dec 12, 2011

Interesting.

Odd that the XP is 35" but has a 36" arm that everyone seems to love, but a 38" arm on the pro & people are thinking that it's going to panel out too easy.

I've never done a steep sidehill on an XP, so I can't intelligently compare how it does with the narrower arms in the steep.

swrev · Dec 12, 2011

I really don't think paneling out is going to be a big deal on the new cat. The XP is wider and I've always wondered if it would make a difference, but they don't seem to have a problem even w/ the narrow a arms. Don't forget the XP also has an extra inch of track to help w/ the paneling in comparison to body width which would make it more comparable that way to the new cat w/ cat still having a 1 inch advantage. I Knew the Pro was narrow bodied, but didn't realize it was that much narrower. Wyo-did you happen to measure the wide part of the running boards?

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 12, 2011

I didn't measure the boards,

I was fighting the panels within minutes on the first ride. I read the M is 3" narrower than the PC so that should put it at 30". I could tell the difference between my 2 M's one with a kmod and one without, the kmod adds height to the suspension and the stock one would panel out faster. I could also tell the difference between a stock M and a stock PRO but not between the M with a kmod and the PRO. After riding a pro or my M+kmod and then getting on a stock M and trying to sidehill just as steep of a slope it wanted to buck me down hill like a xp

IMO the pro has the advantage and I'm going to eliminate that advantage, It might be easier to buy a pro but the pro at first glance but when I get done with my mods the cat is going to be a far better platform and make way more "RELIABLE" power. It will be interesting to compare the PC to a pro with the narrow board, tighter steering and drop the weight 20-35lbs (hopefully make it the same weight and then compare with the stock power plant) just for fun.

If you watch people that can sidehill a xp in the real steep stuff you will notice they have to carry a lot more ground speed to keep it going, same effect and the way it felt on the stock PC.

swrev · Dec 12, 2011

WyoBoy1000 said:
If you watch people that can sidehill a xp in the real steep stuff you will notice they have to carry a lot more ground speed to keep it going, same effect and the way it felt on the stock PC.

They don't have to, they just can go faster.

Have't looked to closely at the new cats and how the paneling goes together. Will you be able to trim off that much on the panels, or will you be having to do some fabrication?

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 12, 2011

Both, I think I can pull the panels in but we will see, then fab a running board insert and rear kick up. I think on each side if I move them in 1" on the back and 2" on the front it should do, then just suck in the plastic and a little heat gun action it should come in, its nice since the secondary is up high now, on the M it wouldn't work so well.

when its that steep the xp has no other choice, not something you notice until you have a sled that will and one that wont.

AKSNOWRIDER · Dec 12, 2011

I actually think you are onto it wyo..but I would think raising the sled(dropping the skid), would give you the side clearence but, how are you going to overcome the higher CG?is raising it 1-2" going to alter CG enough to present a whole new set of issues or can you narrow the body enough without raising the chassis? I did have a chance to side hill a pretty steep pitch on the 11 etec 163 last season..far better then the 08-10's but it did just what you are describing wyo, I had to carry more speed then the pro and had to stay right on top of it the whole time..any slow reaction and it wanted to loose it to the low side...

swrev · Dec 12, 2011

Ran out to the garage and measured my Skidoo, the narrowest a person could make the paneling and still clear the clutches is around 34". Running boards at the front of the tunnel are about the same. How wide are the primary cluthces on the Cat and Polaris sleds? Skidoo is close to 8" to the end of the bolt and it will already hit the side panel if you flex the body paneling.

Give us some pics as you start cutting and building.

AKSNOWRIDER · Dec 12, 2011

SW..just meausred my poo..7.75 from back of inner sheive to outside of the bolt head...

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 12, 2011

hears the prob, if I get beat I want it to be by a better rider and not down falls of the sled, so it needs to be the same as a pro (since its the contender IMO) but there are still factors, the pro puts down more track with different skid, driver and height geometry/mounting, I wanted to move the skid forward to give it even more rider input and put the track down faster, then move the upper rear wheel farther forward letting slack into the track and thus you could move the rear wheels back and gain a couple inches of track on the ground. But the kmod adds height and after seeing what it does I would rather have it, when it adds height it puts the rails right at the track approach angle so you can't move it forward, there is a chance you can move the rear wheel forward and gain something there but I will have to wait and see. Also adding height you loose track on the ground, but the kmod works way better and does 10x what a stock skid does for my style. As far as adding height it is only 1" if that, the handling from height (tipping over) was slightly different on the M (also could have been because I just revalve the shocks instead of going with the full kit) but the benefit's are well worth it, the PC handles so much better than any other sled I have rode I am sure its not going to be a issue. and I plan on going with the full kit kmod, I am also 6'6" so pulling it over is no problem, even with the bars way down.

swrev · Dec 12, 2011

AKSNOWRIDER said:
SW..just meausred my poo..7.75 from back of inner sheive to outside of the bolt head...

Is the Pro wider at the clutch than at the boards? 29" is narrow and clutch is close to the same. Guess I won't be machining a P 85. Tunnel on an XP is wider, but still doesn't have much clearance for the the track.

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 12, 2011

On the pro the panel tapers in after the primary but only on the bottom. which is how I plan on doing it.

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 12, 2011

clutch side has room, other side might be done by angling the plastic in like the pro, I plan on a oil delete anyway so I will have lots of room.

381254_2911151661352_1337436134_3250952_582853427_n.jpg

378788_2911153501398_1337436134_3250955_1349700347_n.jpg

385985_2911197982510_1337436134_3250993_300302913_n.jpg

383215_2911199262542_1337436134_3250994_348096973_n.jpg

AKSNOWRIDER · Dec 12, 2011

I took a few pics and am loading them to photobucket...

AKSNOWRIDER · Dec 12, 2011

swrev · Dec 12, 2011

Shot of my XP side panel and a sneek peek under the hood of the Skidoo that is going to kick Wyo's *** if I make it to Cooke this year! There no smilie that make a good stare down, Ha Ha. How's the snow been?

AKSNOWRIDER · Dec 12, 2011

LOL...everyone is gunning for wyo...snows been good between the epic rain storms..if it all came as snow we would have 10-15 ft insteaf of the 4-6 we have..

elvis1280 · Dec 12, 2011

Wyo, this will be my next project since i got the steering done. So i am confused at what you want to do? obviously if we had narrower running boards it would suck them in. but do you want to drill out the rivets on the bottom panels? cut an inch off and push them in and re rivet?

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 12, 2011

Just want to say thanks to swrev and AKSNOWRIDER for turning this into a great thread.

I think I will drill the rivets and get the plastic out of the way, then put the boards where I want them, then I think just suck the plastic in starting behind the primary, but no I am wondering about getting some pro panels and attaching them to the cat panels. I will prob try to suck them in first (cheaper) and see how it goes.

It just pi$$es me off looking at a pro and AC built a wider sled WTF.

PC, XP, and P Pro width

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads