Rev chassis, track rubbing front susp arm?

[T800R162]

I just finished up a D&R (1.25" x 1.75") on my rev, 8 tooth 3 pitch avids, 2.75" rear susp. setback. Got my track on and tightend up. The track is just touching the front arm track supports. Do you think it will work or should I drop the front arm down? VE gave me all the measurments and told me not to drop the front mount cause it would be taking a step back and the approach angle would increase.


Here is a pic.


Thank you

Tman

 

[MARCUSO]

The best way to check is to take a ratchet strap and wrap it around the track perpendicularly so it tightens up to the point that there is no slack. If it touches, it is no good. It will rub when you apply throttle and eventually wear a groove in your track.
I would drop the front arm a tad to get some clearance.. like a 1/2 inch..it won't affect your AOA that much.. maybe a degree..

I heard of some people pulling the skid, and cutting the loops off, or adding wheels up there also.

 

[h-d2]

I did the same drop and roll and the same happen to me,I had it 3.5 straight back and notice the track rubbing,I spoke with VE and he said to move it up to 2.5 and lower the front just enough for clearance or take a hammer and smash the glides down a little to help with clearance.I ended up with just under 2.5 back and about 1.5 down.I now i'm just a hair above the glides on the arm.I would like to have more clearance but I don't want to lower the skid any more,I think it will be fine.

 

[hymark860]

You need to drop it at least the same distance the drop was or just alittle more because of drivers. Especially if you had 9t before I moved mine back down 2" The arm lays flatter and the AOA is likie 15 degrees and looks flat when riding it.

I have the VE kit. Im shocked they would tell a guy to smash those loops down. I like the kit but they could've put alittle more effort in areas.

Heres some pics of where mine is mounted. The second hole closer to the bolt is from the older style front tq arm I had.

 

[mtnxtreme1]

front arm

8 tooth 3.0 drivers are smaller than the stock 10tooth 2.52 drivers.

I would drop the front arm and in stall shorter front shock

and spring.

the tow of the skid can be placed were you need it

this should achive what you need.

you may lose some travel but I dont think you'll miss it!

as the sled will climb alot better in deep pow

with flater aproch angle!

just my thoughts.

thanks joel

 

[hymark860]

I think more came with 9t vs 10t. Common sense would be you need to at least move the same distance as the drop and roll to maintain the clearance.

 

[T800R162]

If you moved the suspension down and back like the D & R there would be no purpose to do the D & R then, 1 reason is for track clearance. another reason is too make the approach angle less, if I moved it like you say my approach angle would be the same, right? the idea is too get the drivers down lower so the angle is less.

I might be missing something, but if you moved the susp. the same as the D&R then your approach angle is the same, all you did was make more room for the track then? If ya used bigger drivers with the D&R then your approach angle would be a little better i guess.

 

[MARCUSO]

If you moved the suspension down and back like the D & R there would be no purpose to do the D & R then, 1 reason is for track clearance. another reason is too make the approach angle less, if I moved it like you say my approach angle would be the same, right? the idea is too get the drivers down lower so the angle is less.

I might be missing something, but if you moved the susp. the same as the D&R then your approach angle is the same, all you did was make more room for the track then? If ya used bigger drivers with the D&R then your approach angle would be a little better i guess.

Well then I guess your track will rub.. won't it?? LOL

To drop it so it does not rub, is essential.. The AOA is pretty good already on the stockers, but most want to run taller tracks, with larger drivers.
I believe that is the main key to today's D&R

Back in the day, when one rode the old Summit-X, or the first zx's/// the AOA was brutal. Today's sleds are a little better than that.

 

[T800R162]

thanks for the info, first D&R I have done on a rev. I guess VE didn't give me to good of advice , This mornin I knocked my track supports down almost 3/8" , track doesn't touch now. close enough for me.

 

[hymark860]

thanks for the info, first D&R I have done on a rev. I guess VE didn't give me to good of advice , This mornin I knocked my track supports down almost 3/8" , track doesn't touch now. close enough for me.

Where you mount your rear suspension will have alot to do with the AOA. The higher you make it the worse it gets the lower or further in the tunnel you get, it the better. I played around with this alot with the rear tunnel tied up. I went through many different mockups till I found somthing I like. Its not just the drop and roll but a compbinations of everything put together. I believe my AOA is 15 degrees, but I didn't do for that. I did it to squeeze the track in because it was all I had. Plus it helped with the wheelining problem the 03.5 summit was prone too. im currently doing a 07 chassis. This being the 4th one.

 

[T800R162]

cool. learn something every day. . VE and my wonderful rev had my mind doin circles LOL! I just got done building a 02 SRX 162" from the ground up, never had one issue, everything came out perfect, I delivered it to the new owner and all I want to do is throw rocks at mine after building that ride.