king cat clutching

miner700 · Apr 13, 2008

i need help or the cat goes bye-bye
2004 king cat 162 camo track,aftermarket can,and reeds,put the primary back to stock,yellowtitanium springand 69 cams. team secondary with a 50 helix red spring.
when i'm climbing all i can get is 30mph for track speed, everyone out climbs me
any ideas, please help

JENSEN BROS · Apr 13, 2008

the fix

can the secondary and go back to stock. use a 53 helix with the same fixed pin primary weights and titanuim springs. my brother is a 275 lb former nebraska football lineman. he gets 40 mph on a strong climb. may fall 2-3 in severe steep and deep. i would also recommend the hard rock rollers whick he has and i put an extra clutch bushing in both the cover and sheath side. you have to press them in or they will work their way out in time. also use locktite red to hold them in place. on the cover you must use a belt sander to shave the extra off so the bushing doesn't stick out. you really need one that is half thickness. i am assuming that you are efi and stock. my brother also put some bullseyes in the air box for more air flow. this is a must. also you must get slp snow dust covers over the vents above your boots. no other stock sled will outclimb his sled. this includes a m10 and xp. my sled is a 900 but not stock. pm me if you want any more info.

NEILBUY · Apr 13, 2008

There are alot of options and opinions for the correct way to set up these sleds. There could also be several other reasons (besides clutching) as to why your sled is not climbing the way you would like it too. Keep in mind that track speed changes with altitude, snow conditions, temp. etc.. As for the clutches.
You are right it should climb with a faster track speed. The factory primary clutch works fine; follow the factory weight and spring recomendations; I think 66 to 69 gram weights. The motor should turn at 7200-7400 rpm, and it should stay at the same rpm even as you are climbing a long and steep hill. It is time to replace the primary spring, they get weak over time and you loose alot of performance as they weaken. Be sure to check the primary clutch for any wear on the components.
I ran a Team clutch for 3 years on a 2003 MC 800 EFI and it worked great; they are much easier to adjust. I use a 52/42 helix and the stiffest Team spring I could buy. I don't remember what that spring tension was. Make sure the belt tension is correct. Anyway, it really climbed well the track speed 35-38 mph. This year I bought a 2007 M1000 but I kept the Team clutch when I traded the sled in. While riding in the Snowy Mountian Range this year a riding partner was a little unhappy with his 2004 MC, 900cc, efi, 162 track (Skidoo 16" wide) he just couldn't keep up with the M1000 and we noticed that his rpm was falling as he would climb the hills. I offered to let him use that Team clutch I had saved. He hadn't made 3 climbs with the clutch change and he was smiling ear to ear and offered to by it from me. I sold it. For the rest of the day he climbed right next to the M1000.
If you go with the factory secondary clutch they are alright but replace the spring with a green spring or something stiffer.
Good Luck

miner700 · Apr 13, 2008

thank you for the input, i just had the primary rebuilt new spider,titanium yellow,and 69 weights, the engine runs 7400 climbing,flat whereever. i thought maybe the team spring was to hard and overriding the primary. as you can tell i'm still trying to learn. also had a 58/48 helix shifted hard, but still wouldn't pack the track speed

scoop · Apr 13, 2008

kk clutching

I have a few things done to mine but only minor. I had stock primary clutching(69g stock weights and ti spring but dont know what the specs are on the spring) Hard rollers in the 2ndary w/cpc red and white spring 51 degree helix. It would hold 77-7800 all day(where my sw single likes to run) I recently had primary cluch problems and rebuilt w/70g stock ac weights and is still holding the same rpm. I was glad to see it. I didnt know if it would pull it, but with this combo mine runs and climbs real well.

NEILBUY · Apr 16, 2008

Have you had the clutch alienment checked? I got rid of the need to alien the clutchs by removing all but 1 of the washers that are between the back side of the secondary clutch and the sled chasse. Then added some small washers to the front side clutch bolt. With these changes the clutch should slide back and forth on the jack shaft about 1/4 to 3/8 inch thus it self aliens. If you do this be sure to grease the jack shaft.
Also, do you know if the gearing if factory? I think is should be 19-43.
Finally, check to make the clutches are opening and closeing all the way: Take a black magic marker and draw a line on the inside of the primary clutch face from the bottom of the face straight out to the outter edge of the clutch. Then take the sled up the side of a mountian a couple of times and let the belt rub the marker line. Examine the mark on the clutch face; it should be rubbed off all the way up to within 3/4" of the clutch outer edge. If there is alot of marker left you can flatten the helix angle for small adjustments and gear down for larger adjustments. I ended up with an 18-44gear set in mine.
If you have questions just send me a private message, I'll help all I can.
Good luck, let me know how it goes.
Neil
I

scoop · Apr 16, 2008

aftermarket can?

Is this a EFI, if so not many aftermarket cans run as well as a stock can. I have been down this road. Just a thought!

M9M5 · Apr 16, 2008

Theres got to be something wrong. I have an o3 900 150 2.5 camo, thing can stock pipe v-force gutted air box and pre filters. For clutching I run 74 gram epi heavy tip weights, yellow/white primary spring, 53/51 helix, red/white spring with valley girl rollers. Holds 7800 all day with a 48mph track speed on a good climb. Ride at 6000 feet. I get around 58 mph track speed with a 35hp shot of nos.

miner700 · Apr 20, 2008

maybe not as big of a clutching problem

i have messed with all the clutching, i checked my exhaust cable lengths and they were 7mm to long i believe at this length they won't even open the valves thus no top end power, but will still have rpms?

pauly-doo · Apr 20, 2008

simple fix

there is a real simple fix.BUY A SKI-DOO.

Rush44 · Apr 20, 2008

pauly-doo said:
there is a real simple fix.BUY A SKI-DOO.

Great idea! He can trade clutch problems for engine problems. Brilliant!

Nate · Apr 20, 2008

Rush44 said:
Great idea! He can trade clutch problems for engine problems. Brilliant!

LMAO perdy funny bud

M9M5 · Apr 20, 2008

[ i checked my exhaust cable lengths and they were 7mm to long i believe at this length they won't even open the valves thus no top end power, but will still have rpms?[/QU

That could be your problem. I had the screws that hold the valve in come out so the valve wasn't opening. Was still pulling pretty good rpm but was down to a 35mph track speed. If it's a carbed sled unplug the servo motor and pull the valves open and see if that makes a differents.

2zeros · Apr 20, 2008

Clutching?

I would make sure the valves are working and cables adjusted properly, then tweek with your clutching. Also I would consider the source of the advise you take. Some advise from someone who rides at sea level isnt going to help a guy who rides at 10k+. Some more info about your riding area/elevation and more sled info would help others give good avise. Not all advise is good! I ride a kingcat also and love it. I have done some clutch tuning and would love to give some advise, but need more info to help. I ride 3-6k and my sled is mostly stock. I have a SLP can and some V-force reeds, my track speed is never under 40. I turn my engine 73-7400 with a stock pipe. Your weights sound light to me, but without knowing your elevation? I would think most 900's could pull at least a 72g weight. Good Luck - 00's

miner700 · Apr 21, 2008

cat clutching or exhaust valves

i ride 6-9500 feet,stock pipe,boyesen reeds,sno stuff can,challenger 162 track.
and maybe with the exhaust valves messed up, i ran 66 weights and ran 7500, changed to 69 and still run about 74-7500. i would like another trip out and see where the r's run and see the mph climbing
thanks for all the help

2zeros · Apr 21, 2008

Miner700

Do you have stock gearing? (19/43) I have played with this a little. I found lower gearing to work better for me. I am a heavier guy, (fat guy) that has skinny riding buddies. So I run a lower gear and more primary weight. I actually have gained track speed with lowering my gear.(and some clutch tuning) You can Pm me if you are interested in the details. I don't have any experience at your elevation so my clutch setup probably won't work for you. But always willing to help anybody, or try at least! Hey one more thing, I use a jackshaft speed sensor on my Digitron. It works awesome! Any time you make a change, you can see the numbers. If they are going up you must be doing somthing right. A speedo just isnt easy to tell if you gained one or two MPH. Also you can compare the snow changes, and how they affect your setup. -00's

miner700 · Apr 22, 2008

gearing

yes it is stock gears, my other sleds are geared down 1 for the mtns.
thanks

miner700 · Apr 29, 2008

king cat clutching not

as in the post you can see i thought i had a clutching problem, but the cables to my variable exhaust valves were about 7mm to long. the exhaust valves wouldn't open up, adjusted these and my track speed went from 30mph to 40mph, still would like a little more but a big improvement

Mnt.Tamer · Apr 29, 2008

2003.5 900 cluthing

I run a yellow/green with 69gr in the prim. and a 60/52helix and it pulls my arms off all day. I went to a 20/43 gearing for more track speed and i love it but that's just my opinion.

2zeros · Apr 29, 2008

Mt. Tamer

What is your track speed? I'm not talkin on hardpack or the road. In the deep and steep.

king cat clutching

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