900 Iq Primary Install And Torque Procedures

mountainhorse · Dec 10, 2007

I've got a lot of Pm's on this from an old post.

Here is the install procedures on the 900's primarys... note that the old spec of 50 ft lbs is not correct for these engines... before you ask, I do not know about the new dragons and 700... The proper torque spec is 96 ft/lbs.

Some tips: NEVER use an impact to remove or install the primary. Always use a proper clutch holding tool to remove the bolt and tighten, buy hand-wrench, the removal tool.

This is not a wives tale... the snouts on the cranks can develop stress cracks that can cause big problems later down the line.... Don't listen to those that say "I've been using an impact for years on the clutches without a problem.....". Just not a good idea given the cost of a crank and the relative ease of taking a few extra moments to do it correctly.

Boomshaw · Dec 11, 2007

Thanks for the reminder Eric. I just had one of the biggest after market vendors tell me to use a rubber hose over a bar to hold the clutch since they were back ordered on the correct holding tool. Said it really isn't necessary. I think I will trust your advice since it has never led me astray in the past...

shortstop20 · May 4, 2008

Is it really necessary to use the holding tool? I usually just use a block of wood. Kinda redneck I know.

mountainhorse · May 6, 2008

With the required 96 ft lbs of torqe required to install the bolt on the 900's jamming a block against the chasssis to hold the clutch puts a lot of stress on the tower and one hell of a side load on a crank that is already prone to problems.. not to mention the force on the cases as the crank pushes against the block and that force is directly transmitted to the crank as a side load... kind of like putting a pipe on the PTO taper and reefing up on it.

mountainhorse · May 6, 2008

I've also found on a couple of 900 CFi primary clutch mounting bolts that they stretch before reaching the 96 ft lbs spec... this bolt was originally designed for 50 ft lbs and when polaris was having troubles with the clutches/cranks they changed it to 96 ft lbs without upgrading the bolt. For the price of the bolt and the problems that they can cause, I replace any that are in question or if i have R&R'd the clutch often.

Super Dave3 · May 6, 2008

Clutch Bolt Torque

mountainhorse said:
I've got a lot of Pm's on this from an old post.

Here is the install procedures on the 900's primarys... note that the old spec of 50 ft lbs is not correct for these engines... before you ask, I do not know about the new dragons and 700... The proper torque spec is 96 ft/lbs.

Some tips: NEVER use an impact to remove or install the primary. Always use a proper clutch holding tool to remove the bolt and tighten, buy hand-wrench, the removal tool.

This is not a wives tale... the snouts on the cranks can develop stress cracks that can cause big problems later down the line.... Don't listen to those that say "I've been using an impact for years on the clutches without a problem.....". Just not a good idea given the cost of a crank and the relative ease of taking a few extra moments to do it correctly.

Just a side note to Erics thread all other cleanfires torque to 80 ft lbs.

This includes all cleanfire 600-700 and 800.

BIGGDAWG · May 6, 2008

900 clutch bolt

here is the part number for the 900 clutch bolt 7518412 $18.57 at babbitts online

mountainhorse · Oct 29, 2008

I've been getting a lot of pms and emails lately about past posts.... so I'm moving them to the top of the pile.
Saves time searching

B_DIDDY_SHOEY · Nov 10, 2008

Ttt

Ttt

mountainhorse · Nov 20, 2008

HUNDO · Dec 9, 2008

So what if your tool ends up looking like this and the crank snout threads are now a bit screwed up? How much pressure should I have to put on an 18" half inch ratchet...I think my shoulder is dislocated

shortstop20 · Dec 10, 2008

What brand puller is it? There are some of them I would never put near my clutch. Heard too many horror stories about things like that happening.

I have an EPI high quality puller(they sell two different strengths) and I really like it. Seems to be made of very high quality steel.

BIGGDAWG · Dec 10, 2008

900 RMK 166 said:
So what if your tool ends up looking like this and the crank snout threads are now a bit screwed up? How much pressure should I have to put on an 18" half inch ratchet...I think my shoulder is dislocated

if the clutch won't come off i always give the end of the puller a little tap with a hammer and it usually pops right off.

indydan · Dec 10, 2008

Eric & Ron.

** Note ** About the taper reamer, I have seen more clutches ruined by these they any other tool when in the hands of the inexperienced person.

Don't know if you have seen this or not..........

There are really worthless. The clutch bore needs to be machined to a like mirror finish. and these tools ( if new and sharp ) they cut to much.

( if old and dull ) they don't do a thing.

worthless IMO.

HUNDO · Dec 10, 2008

shortstop20 said:
What brand puller is it? There are some of them I would never put near my clutch. Heard too many horror stories about things like that happening.

I have an EPI high quality puller(they sell two different strengths) and I really like it. Seems to be made of very high quality steel.

I just ordered an EPI, try that one for round 2. Thanks:beer;

BIGGDAWG said:
if the clutch won't come off i always give the end of the puller a little tap with a hammer and it usually pops right off.

Tried tapping the end of the puller a few times...no luck

Thank you though:beer;

indydan said:
** Note ** About the taper reamer, I have seen more clutches ruined by these they any other tool when in the hands of the inexperienced person.

Don't know if you have seen this or not..........

There are really worthless. The clutch bore needs to be machined to a like mirror finish. and these tools ( if new and sharp ) they cut to much.

( if old and dull ) they don't do a thing.

worthless IMO.

Then what do you recommend Dan, a machine shop?

indydan · Dec 11, 2008

900 RMK 166 said:
Then what do you recommend Dan, a machine shop?

Well, that would be a pain in the a$$ ..........But yes if it came to that.

what I was trying to say is DON"T just use one because its there.

LAST resort ( and use with caution )

if you clean the crank & clutch bore with a scotch bright type product
EVERY TIME and then dry both the crank and the clutcvh bore with a brake clean type product ( oil free ) and then torque it to 80 ft lbs

thats enough for ALL polaris domestics ( even the 900 ) Polaris is on crack
look at how many year they said 45 ft lbs ( that was never enough.) and 96 ft pounds is to much.

OK, heres how to get your drive clutch off.

park the sled outside over night - the crank needs to get cold.

Then you will need some tools. ( not average tools )

0 - Polaris puller only. epi sells polaris.

1 - 700 Plus ft Ib Impact ( must be 3/4 drive or 1 inch ) and MUST be a brand name, NOT a cheap over seas copy. NO 1/2 IMPACT WILL WORK ON WHAT YOU HAVE SHOWEN BY YOUR BENT PULLER.

2 -a good air compressor with a BIG tank at least 100 PSI minimum. 60 gallon minimum

3 - large ( SHORT ) air hose as close to the tank as possible.

4 - two Map gas WITH ( Turbo ) torches tips ( NO LESS, NO MORE! ) propane is to slow and not hot enough. dual tank set-ups are to hot and are ONLY for very experience people

5 - have everything ready to go

6 - two people needed to do this correctly. ( one guy needs welding gloves to hold clutch after its hot ) No bars needed.

7 - Ok, now that your ready......... pull sled into warm shop, install puller into clutch leave it two full turns from bottomed out, ( important to grease puller threads and tip. ) then one guy holds both torches on drive clutch 180 degrees apart for 45 seconds.... then install impact and let it have it full throttle until it pops off.

Last resort - have a 3 pound plus brass hammer ready, if clutch does not
pop off as soon as impact comes close to a stop ........

rap with hammer as hard as you can hit ( Chances are after this )
you will need to pull the crank and have it checked by someone that knows what he is doing.

If this doesn't work one of two things happened.

1 - you didn't follow my dirrections completely and shorted the tool slection or process.

2 - You now need to buy a sawz-all.

Dan

Super Dave3 · Dec 11, 2008

Instead of taper reamer and emory paper, another method to get the perfect fit from the clutch to the crank is use valve lapping compound.

Put a little on the PTO snout and spin the clutch by hand. Do this few times and you have the perfect match.

indydan · Dec 11, 2008

Super Dave3 said:
Instead of taper reamer and emory paper, another method to get the perfect fit from the clutch to the crank is use valve lapping compound.

Put a little on the PTO snout and spin the clutch by hand. Do this few times and you have the perfect match.

He would be correct. I do this to all my personal sleds.

just make sure you keep it away from the crank seal because it will cause
premature seal failure if it works its way inside - remember as seals wear they leak alittle and it can suck the compound inside the seal. the older the seal the more careful you must be.

Storyboy · Dec 11, 2008

clutch removal

I had a old yamaha exciter the clutch would not come off of. After rebuilding it many times on the sled, the spider and buttons finally wore out. So I put it up on its side with the clutch bolt out and sprayed Liquid Wrench super penetrant in and let it sit a couple days. Popped right off with ease. Really worked good.

mountainhorse · Jun 11, 2009

900 Iq Primary Install And Torque Procedures

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