dead spots in steering

kylant · Aug 21, 2013

I was messing with my sled today and remembered an ?issue? that i forgot about.
my steering has a dead spot at full lock on both sides. as i turn the bars, when the skis are turned all the way in one direction, the bars will continue to turn about 1/4-1/2" more. when turning the bars back the other direction, they will move that same amount before the skis start to turn. it does this on both sides.
i tried to diagnose last winter, but gave up.
i have both upper and lower steering bushings from Canada Sled Parts.

any ideas?

thanks

gjp · Aug 21, 2013

I noticed this too. I originally thought it was the stops hitting before the linkage reached full turn, but it does when the skis are straight forward too. (Put your foot on a ski for resistance and slowly turn handlebar slowly. They will move quite a bit before forcing the skis to turn).

After installing Canad Sled Parts bushings, it decreases this effect, but it is still present. I think it is occurring in the bottom linkage/tie rods.

kylant · Aug 22, 2013

i'm gonna go to my dealer today and talk with him. i will check a sled on the showroom floor.

last winter i found my tierods were loose in middle. got those tightened, what a pain in the a$$

anziconda · Aug 22, 2013

My guess would be that they're designed that way, to a point. If we felt every bump or slight direction change the ski does, it would suck riding anything but powder. (It does anyway, but that would be worse!). Just a guess tho...

kylant · Aug 23, 2013

went to the dealer, checked out a '13 sled on the show room floor. that sled had very minimal almost no dead spot at full lock. talked to the dealer, he said start at the top and work down to the bottom checking all joints and nuts/bolts on the steering.

well i found where mine was loose. the 15mm bolt at the very bottom of the lower steering shaft was very loose. also the 17mm bolt next to it on the "connecting rod" thing was loose as well.

by tightening these two bolts, i eliminated about 90% of the dead spot.... much better.

also learned a new trick from the dealer. the rubber boots that cover the tie rods will slip right off the rivets. no need to drill them out. the boots will then slip right back over the rivets when done. removing these boots allows much easier access to the steering.

gjp · Aug 23, 2013

kylant said:
well i found where mine was loose. the 15mm bolt at the very bottom of the lower steering shaft was very loose. also the 17mm bolt next to it on the "connecting rod" thing was loose as well.

by tightening these two bolts, i eliminated about 90% of the dead spot.... much better.

also learned a new trick from the dealer. the rubber boots that cover the tie rods will slip right off the rivets. no need to drill them out. the boots will then slip right back over the rivets when done. removing these boots allows much easier access to the steering.

Thanks for the input. I will check mine.

gjp · Aug 24, 2013

kylant said:
well i found where mine was loose. the 15mm bolt at the very bottom of the lower steering shaft was very loose. also the 17mm bolt next to it on the "connecting rod" thing was loose as well.

by tightening these two bolts, i eliminated about 90% of the dead spot.... much better.

also learned a new trick from the dealer. the rubber boots that cover the tie rods will slip right off the rivets. no need to drill them out. the boots will then slip right back over the rivets when done. removing these boots allows much easier access to the steering.

My 15mm bolt on the shaft was loose. Also the 10mm that connects to the frame was very loose. It was the source of the annoying screeching sound. You have to remove the plastic protector beneath the bumper to get to it. There is still a bit of play but it looks like flex which is normal.

Stretching the boot over the rivets makes this very easy to do. Thanks.

kylant · Aug 24, 2013

i'll check that 10mm bolt on mine too. thanks

gjp · Oct 5, 2013

I had to add a spacing washer to the 10 mm bolt wash. The steering arm shaft extends past the frame - not allowing a snug fit.

1" spacer washer from home depot did the trick.

rockymtnboy · Oct 5, 2013

also learned a new trick from the dealer. the rubber boots that cover the tie rods will slip right off the rivets. no need to drill them out. the boots will then slip right back over the rivets when done. removing these boots allows much easier access to the steering.[/QUOTE]

Wish I would of know that a month ago! Sweet tip thx

kylant · Oct 6, 2013

the new sleds have push pins that replace those rivets. i have some on order, but i am not looking forward to drilling all of them out

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dead spots in steering

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