I
Exactly what i was thinking.....
ProClimb Jackshaft update coming from Arctic Cat
- Thread starter RACINSTATION
- Start date
R
My dealer told me that the update had two parts, one was the nut on the outside of the top gear and the other was internal... not sure if the bold that the nut on the outside of the gear isn't screwed all the way in or not - also not sure if that will change much for the belt issues out there. Regardless mine is going in this week to get the update completed.
G
Does anyone think that the secondary sheeves are cast wrong or that the belt angle is off... anyone have measurements of the 020 or 031 belt angles... because i can most definatly see a problem with it only gripping around the threds of the belts like mine is... curious if these other belts are different angles...
FYI my dealer is going good for all belts blown and said there going to have to go good for them untill they figure out this belt issue...Glad my dealer is one that appreciates and values there customers. Houlton Power Sports MAINE
Everyone needs to bring their sleds in and get the update done, even though it won't fix the belt problem, and then continue to report the blown belts to their dealers. Maybe Arctic Cat needs to get some training in Root Cause Analysis...
G
Dealer told me tonight that the updated shaft and kit wont even be available untill mid FEBUARY... guessing im going to DETONATE that chain case before that happens... warrantee warrantee.. but no sled for the rest of the winter will be my pissah
If you read the letter it says all kit will be out by mid feburary. Was at dealer today, kit start shipping tomorrow.
N
I work at a cat dealership and today we tried to order the update kits for our sleds and its not available yet. Cattracker doesn't recognize to part number yet.
One thing that it might help, and I'm just thinking out loud here is mabe because the bearing does rest in the tcl mabe tightening the nut with no shim is allowing the tcl to be pulled towards the chain case causing a small amount of misalignment. What do you guys think. Have I totally lost it or does this sound possible?
.....the TLC is tightening the belt.....with wandering, after 500 miles (3) of us on the weekend all with 2012 800's(two proclimb HC's and one Procross XF)had excessive belt deflection so we all added shims(0.30 to 0.60) to the secondary....later that day i get a loud belt chatter,so i immediately stop and check my belt.....very tight little to no deflection(hence TLC tightening)so i immediately pull my additional shim out.my day ends without incident.sled works great
however the other two guys do not notice belt chatter and therefore continue with additional shims,well the very next day both sleds blow belts ....and mine doesn't
however the other two guys do not notice belt chatter and therefore continue with additional shims,well the very next day both sleds blow belts ....and mine doesn't
G
The only thing this update does is to stop the jacksaft form moving if the nut comes loose, thats it. If your nut is tight right now and your still having belt problems, this is not going to fix it.
First year gremlins. It sucks but almost every mfr has them. Doo had belts and driveshafts, Polaris had engine failures....oh wait, they still have engine failures.
They will figure it out....hopefully sooner than later so they don't lose any of the Cat faithful.
Does anyone think this is "the cure"? Or just part of a cure?
They will figure it out....hopefully sooner than later so they don't lose any of the Cat faithful.
Does anyone think this is "the cure"? Or just part of a cure?
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i dont even think its part of the cure.its just cats way of buying time.
Winter Brew- BandAid or Cure ?
I now have 300 miles on my PC. It is running GOOD, knock on wood.
I had to tighten the nut in the chain case at 100 miles, it is still tight, I check it every time I come back from a ride. I have dropped my primary weights to
68 gr. at 8000 feet from the 70 gr. Like I posted earlier I marked my belt with a silver marker and rode Sunday for 30 miles. All the marker is gone except for a
32nd of an inch on the very top of the belt, I can just barely see any trace of silver marker. I have every crack, seam,opening, covered with pet screen from home depot. Brake rotor covered. I am pulling more heat on belt and clutches than I like but I am not blowing belts. My deflection is on the loose side.
What I have noticed is the driven clutch sheaves twist, this allows the rollers to not contact the helix all the time. By doing this the clutch is relying on only the spring to hold belt tension. My thoughts are, if you get something in your clutch to cause slippage (snow dust, water, oil ) and it sucks the belt down into the sheaves because of lack of resistance to up shift. This will cause instant heat and blow belts. Am I correct in thinking this. If the rollers
are not in contact with the helix then you are relying only on the narrow bushing in the movable sheave to stay straight and maintain correct contact with the belt.
Give me your thoughts on this. If the nut is tight from the first recall then I think the shims will go in the Curad box.
I have not run 90 MPH just to test out blowing a belt because I am afraid of what the out come may be.
RickM
I now have 300 miles on my PC. It is running GOOD, knock on wood.
I had to tighten the nut in the chain case at 100 miles, it is still tight, I check it every time I come back from a ride. I have dropped my primary weights to
68 gr. at 8000 feet from the 70 gr. Like I posted earlier I marked my belt with a silver marker and rode Sunday for 30 miles. All the marker is gone except for a
32nd of an inch on the very top of the belt, I can just barely see any trace of silver marker. I have every crack, seam,opening, covered with pet screen from home depot. Brake rotor covered. I am pulling more heat on belt and clutches than I like but I am not blowing belts. My deflection is on the loose side.
What I have noticed is the driven clutch sheaves twist, this allows the rollers to not contact the helix all the time. By doing this the clutch is relying on only the spring to hold belt tension. My thoughts are, if you get something in your clutch to cause slippage (snow dust, water, oil ) and it sucks the belt down into the sheaves because of lack of resistance to up shift. This will cause instant heat and blow belts. Am I correct in thinking this. If the rollers
are not in contact with the helix then you are relying only on the narrow bushing in the movable sheave to stay straight and maintain correct contact with the belt.
Give me your thoughts on this. If the nut is tight from the first recall then I think the shims will go in the Curad box.
I have not run 90 MPH just to test out blowing a belt because I am afraid of what the out come may be.
RickM
G
Heard people talking about a tortional or twisting clutch kit or spring settup?????
or something like that. someone correct me if im wrong... would this help hold the rollers onto the helix???Rick when you mean twist, Are you talking about the whole clutch twisting on the jackshaft, or sheave to sheave twisting between ea. other? Is it the clutch bushing allowing this, or do you think there is too much play on the shaft? Just looking at the pics I am having a hard time with the spline lg. and the shaft turned smaller behind. What keeps this clutch true and centered on the shaft? Not that short spline lg. I hope? Mike
sheaves twisting
I am talking about the sheaves turning against each other, so the rollers have no contact with the helix. some people say this is no big deal. But if your in mid range or less and force a load on the driven from either jumping or getting
good track hookup i feel it can spread the sheave some to allow slippage.
As for the short jack shaft, if the driven is bolted tight up to the bearing i may
not flex. I dont know on that issue. I hope cat comes up with a cure soon as does many other LOYAL cat owners.
I am talking about the sheaves turning against each other, so the rollers have no contact with the helix. some people say this is no big deal. But if your in mid range or less and force a load on the driven from either jumping or getting
good track hookup i feel it can spread the sheave some to allow slippage.
As for the short jack shaft, if the driven is bolted tight up to the bearing i may
not flex. I dont know on that issue. I hope cat comes up with a cure soon as does many other LOYAL cat owners.
G
Cat's waiting to hear from all the dealers that can't get the full 4.5mm clearance. Then they will issue a puller. Then it will be 2013.
R
The Update with the shim washers is a precautionary step..
With these shims "binding" against the nut, IF the nut decides to come loose (again) it would not be able to float due to the shims "butting" up against it. So, the shill will keep the jackshaft from moving IF the nut comes loose.. So, it has nothing to do with any current problem.. just a precautionary step that will not fix anything until it breaks, or tries to...
As for roller contact, the belts are not blowing during a jump or de-accell.. they are blowing under hard and heavy accell.. and under hard and havy accell, the rollers will always be in contact.. AND ONCE past the initial engagement the rollers POSSIBLE "moveability" from the the ramp is VERY little due to the sheave contacting the plastic ramps. ONLY in a neutral (stopped, not-engaged) state/position can the rollers actually have any significant movement off the helix ramp.. Pull the spring and see what happens once you are past engagement...
With these shims "binding" against the nut, IF the nut decides to come loose (again) it would not be able to float due to the shims "butting" up against it. So, the shill will keep the jackshaft from moving IF the nut comes loose.. So, it has nothing to do with any current problem.. just a precautionary step that will not fix anything until it breaks, or tries to...
As for roller contact, the belts are not blowing during a jump or de-accell.. they are blowing under hard and heavy accell.. and under hard and havy accell, the rollers will always be in contact.. AND ONCE past the initial engagement the rollers POSSIBLE "moveability" from the the ramp is VERY little due to the sheave contacting the plastic ramps. ONLY in a neutral (stopped, not-engaged) state/position can the rollers actually have any significant movement off the helix ramp.. Pull the spring and see what happens once you are past engagement...
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Tight or loose nut won't change the belt issue. I guess all you guys forgot we always ran our secondarys witha 1/8" of float so they could move in and out to compansate for engine movement. The belt will run straight if it is allowed to.
G
Whats funny is that I have already washered up that area, AC must have a spy in my shop.
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