PART#1 STEERING SWING MOD!

elvis1280 · Dec 8, 2011

Ok, lets begin the process. part 1, teardown and fabricating the 2 pieces!

1. TAKE OFF HOOD, SIDES ETC.
2. TAKE OFF PIPE, (Y-PIPE REMOVAL MAKES IT EAISER BUT I DIDNT), ECU COVER AND ECU ITSELF. 2 SIDE PANELS FLARES ABOVE THE SHOCKS (2) SCREWS EACH AND 2 OF THE FOUR ARE THE ONES THAT HOLD THE ECU COVER ON!
3. NOW IT GETS FUN, DRILL OUT THE THREE RIVETS HOLDING THE SERVO MOTOR *** ON THE CROSS BAR. THEN TAKE OUT THE BAR ITSELF (TWO BOLTS WHICH ALOWS VISUAL OF THE THROTTLE BODIES AND LETS YOU REMOVE THE AIRBOX.
4. LOOSEN THE 2 CLAMPS HOLDING THE AIRBOX TO THROTTLE BODIES AND SCOOT IT FORWARD. THEN YOU NEED TO TAKE OUT THE THROTTLE BODIES. i TOOK OFF THE COOLANT HOSE ON BOTTOM RIGHT (FACING THE MOTOR) SO NOW I WILL HAVE TO RE BURP THE SYSTEM OF AIR BUBBLES? IT WAS THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT OUT OF THE WAY. ALSO CUT THE 2 ZIP TIES HOLDING THE PLUGS AND UNPLUG. PULL THE FUEL LINE TOP LEFT AND THE OIL PUMP ARM IN THE MIDDLE BACK (POP OFF WITH PRY BAR) AND LEAVE THE OTHERS INTACT (HOSE BOTTOM LEFT AND PLUG BOTTOM LEFT). NOW LOOSEN THE 2 CLAMPS (BLACK PHILLIPS) HOLDING THE THROTTLE BODIES ON AND PULL THE WHOLE THING UP. I BUNGIED MINE TO THE HANDLE BARS.
5. NOW YOU CAN SEE WHAT WERE DOING! UP TILL NOW IT TOOK ME AN 1.0HR.
6. TAKE THE TWO BOLTS OUT HOLDING THE TIE RODS AND THE TWO SPINDLE TIE RODS SO YOU CAN SCOOT THEM OUT. DRILL OUT ALL THE RIVETS HOLDING RUBBER BOOTS ON W/ 3/16 BIT. I DIDNT PULL RODS OUT OF BOOTS JUST LEFT THEM HANGING THERE.
7, FABRICATION TIME. 1/8" THICK STEEL STRAP 2" WIDE AND A 5/16 BIT. (LOTS OF MEASURING)
8. YOU CAN SEE THE MEASURMENTS ON THE PIC AND I STILL NEED TO ROUND THE EDGES. MAKE 1 PERFECT PIECE AND CLAMP ONTO STRAP AND COPY THAT PIECE SO THEY ARE THE SAME! SEE YOU TOMORROW.

Going West · Dec 8, 2011

Thanks for the measurements, and the pics. I'm doing two tomorrow.

aksnopro · Dec 9, 2011

Thanks!

SaberKitty · Dec 9, 2011

Are we calling this the Elvis mod?

elvis1280 · Dec 9, 2011

No, I wish it was my idea. geo came up with 3/4" which is the biggest part and my dealer has done 3. Rassmusen talked about it but its not mine for sure! GEOSWING MOD?

RickM · Dec 9, 2011

Elvis 1280

I have a question for you. I have had the triangle bottom plate off and can see where the adapter plates will go. My question to you is, if a person un rivet's the side panels and pulls the rubber boots back. would it be possible to get the 2 bolts out of the steering joints without haveing to dismantle the top side? Just wondering, and looking for maybe a short cut.
thanks for the great detailed instuctions and photos.

ill watch for you answer. Rickm
you didnt mention haveing to modify the bulkhead with a BFH? ? ?

Going West · Dec 9, 2011

RickM said:
I have a question for you. I have had the triangle bottom plate off and can see where the adapter plates will go. My question to you is, if a person un rivet's the side panels and pulls the rubber boots back. would it be possible to get the 2 bolts out of the steering joints without haveing to dismantle the top side? Just wondering, and looking for maybe a short cut.
thanks for the great detailed instuctions and photos.

ill watch for you answer. Rickm
you didnt mention haveing to modify the bulkhead with a BFH? ? ?

Thats what I plan to do, I also think geo did all his work through the side.

RickM · Dec 9, 2011

looking for center to center for tie rods holes

I sent elvis a PM, I dont see the center to center measurment for the tie rod holes that need drilled in the new plate, I know you move the holes out 3/4 for new location but. I am missing the width measurement. Rickm

Is the 5/16 the drill bit size shown on the plate, or is it 5/16 in from edge where you drill the hole?

I guess im thinking he is showing the hole size?

Going West · Dec 9, 2011

To me it looks like 1/34 center to center and the plate is 2" wide. Hole size should will just be the sized for the bolts.

RickM · Dec 9, 2011

dont thing so

going west. if you lay out your 2" wide plate, and measure 1/34 center to center for you hole for the width on tie rod, and drill a 5/16 hole you wont have any material left on the out side of the hole. wont look like his photo.
rickm

I think hes is saying come in 5/16 inch from side and drill your holes for the width for tie rods.??????

volcano buster · Dec 9, 2011

You might check your toe-in when done. There is a possibility that the relocation of the tie rods might toe the skis out a little bit.

RickM · Dec 9, 2011

Center to Center

Will check toe, but need the holes in the new plate to match up with the steering arm that we are extending. thats the measurement we need. RickM

Going West · Dec 9, 2011

Your right 1 3/4 looks to be the height.

Going West · Dec 9, 2011

Assuming that the dimensions of 2" by 1 3/4 are right for the size of the plate, then the center to center on the holes is 30mm or 1.181"

RickM · Dec 9, 2011

going west

how did you come up with the 30 mm . please explain. I dont want to make a mistake.

Going West · Dec 9, 2011

Just measure the pic and ratio it out. It worked for all his other measurements so it should be pretty dang close.

elvis1280 · Dec 9, 2011

Ill get the measurment for the plate in 30 min. And trying to cut the bulkhead back with the airbox there is scary. There is so much metal dust and shavings that you would never get it out. I cut one side of the bulkhead today and have the sled masked off and have vacumed 8 times

RickM · Dec 9, 2011

Elvis 1280 and Going West

I took the aluminum triangle cover off the belly pan, got my hand and a small piece of cardboard to use as a template. I pressed down on the bolt heads on the tie rod bolts. Removed the cardboard and measured the indentations.
It measures 30 MM like Going West mentioned above.

Now I need the info on what you have to do to the bulk head. It looks like a person can install the plates from the bottom side if you take off the rubber boots on tie rods.

Am I missing something on this Elvis 1280?????

Elvis on modifying the bulkhead, are you talking about the black triangle piece which is real close to the tie rod tube where the rubber boots are riveted on? if so could a person use a hole saw and cut out room for the tube ? When I look at it from under the sled I can see where the tie rod tube will hit when moved rearward 3/4 inch. Am i correct on what you have to do ? RickM

007 · Dec 9, 2011

Are the engineers up at Cat watching this thread? This should be a recall with longer ears right from the factory!

KJP

elvis1280 · Dec 9, 2011

who knows if they are watching? I dont have time to sit around to see if they do anyting about the problem. Problem is, it isnt a problem for 95 percent of people who own these. when your sidehilling something very, very steep for a good 50yds i need the skis out of my fing way so i am not fighting the sled. Even with the stock swing I can uturn sharper than my m? Its just for holding a sidehill, and I need it fixed now!

PART#1 STEERING SWING MOD!

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads