ProClimb Clutching

NoSoup4U · Nov 19, 2011

Took the ProClimb M8 out for the first ride today. Put 62 miles on it. First let me say that this sled exceeds my expectations. It takes half the effort to ride of my 2010 M and I felt comfortable on it almost immediately. I don't know what it weighs compared to the other brands (and no longer care after riding it), but it feels light on the snow and is very easy to throw around.

The only issue I had was that after about 50 miles I made several powder climbs on a fairly steep hill. If I kept it a full throttle the whole way, the RPM's held at around 8150. If I got out of the throttle and then back in to it the RFM's would only come back up to 7400 and stay there. The clutching is stock and the elevation was around 8500-9000. Anyone else see this?

I also noticed on the flat if I was running say 20MPH and pinned the throttle the RFP would go up to 7800 and then take about 5 seconds to get up to 8100-8200.

Just in case anyone is interested, we raced the stock ProClimb with around 50 miles on it against my 2010 M8 which has an SLP single on it and runs very strong. The race was on the flat on a closed section of highway. My butt dyno said the 2010 would win, but the ProClimb pulled the M all 4 times that we raced and had noticeably more top end speed. We switched riders after two races and had the same results. So much for butt dyno's.

RACINSTATION · Nov 19, 2011

Seen the same shifting issue here. We are working out the kinks. The ProClimb has waaaaayyy longer legs than the M. It has about 15mph top speed over the M when comparing stock to stock.

jazzfan · Nov 19, 2011

Today was my first ride on my Proclimb. I sold my 09 HCR that had the Starting Line Performance package in it and it runs gooood. So I've been wondering if I made a mistake selling it, but after riding my new proclimb today I feel good about my new ride. This sled has good throttle response, a much better hole shot and pulls hard! I'm anxious to see what happens after the first tank of gas and putting a can on it does for it. I noticed the same thing with the clutching. Once in a while I would hit 8150 but not often and I wasn't in deep snow. So Racin Station when you get the clutching figured out let me know what I need to do, please. One thing I noticed is my hand warmers were hotter than hell on high and had nothing on low.

Bearcat · Nov 19, 2011

So, is it time to think about doing torsional conversion for this sled too? Or is there some other solutions?

forreboy · Nov 20, 2011

Torsional

you already have a torsional spring in your secondary
they get rid of the compression spring along with the diamond drive
And you are sure that you didn't get snow in your can?
I think it seems to be very exposed underneath, no protection for snow to plug the exhaust. It will loose power and rpm when too much snow plugs the exhaust.

NoSoup4U · Nov 20, 2011

forreboy said:
you already have a torsional spring in your secondary
they get rid of the compression spring along with the diamond drive
And you are sure that you didn't get snow in your can?
I think it seems to be very exposed underneath, no protection for snow to plug the exhaust. It will loose power and rpm when too much snow plugs the exhaust.[/QUOTE

I haven't tore into my secondary and I could be wrong, but the secondary appears to me to be a modified version of the TEAM TSS-04, which is a compression clutch. When you take the secondary off, the rollers don't snap back against the cam like a torsional clutch will, they stay in the same position with a gap between the roller and the cam like a compression clutch. Also, there are no tabs to tighten or loosen the spring pre-load like on a torsional set up.

I'm pretty sure it's not a issue of snow in the can. It wasn't a bog, it just wasn't back-shifting like it should. It was also slow to recover the RPM if got in and out of the throttle going up hill on packed snow, but not to the extent that it did in the powder. So I think it is a secondary clutch calibration issued. Probably needs some shims added or a different spring.

RickM · Nov 20, 2011

Driven Clutch Spring

I just looked at the parts diagram of the driven clutch, I looks like it is a
compression spring, and a spacer on each end of the spring. It says it is
a blue spring. Looking at the picture I cant see any tabs on the spring so
it must be compression. Hope this helps out. Rickm

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 20, 2011

Shift assist??? Is the alignment right, or do we have more motor mount issues.

markoo · Nov 20, 2011

Break in?

Your still on your first tank of fuel which should have extra oil in and your sled isn't broke in yet. Ride it a few more times. If it wakes up a bit more it might be able to pull this clutch setup.

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ProClimb Clutching

NoSoup4U

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RACINSTATION

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jazzfan

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Bearcat

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forreboy

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NoSoup4U

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RickM

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WyoBoy1000

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markoo

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